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12

I have lived under the impression that they will not bend as the entire surface of the door that touches the body would hit evenly at the same time along the entire surface. If you put a bar at a point on the surface near the hinge I imagine that the door would become damaged. damage I would worry about Door internals Window components and arms to raise ...


11

Great question. My preference is silicone spray, as you suggested. I'm pretty sure this one is the one I usually get for this kind of job. Apparently I'm not the only person who thinks this is a good idea, either: Home Repair Central says, The two best choices are a silicone spray or white lithium grease. My preference it the silicone spray. It is ...


10

If you're getting enough moisture into the seal/door interface, the seals are already failing. It's time to replace them. However, if you want to hold it off for a little while, vaseline is fine. It'll slowly degrade the seals further, but well, they're already done for at this point... Best thing to do is to use silicone lube on the seals occasionally ...


10

Well, here's what ended up working. From inside the car, roll down the window. There's a piece of rubber weatherstripping along the outside bottom edge of the window, pry it out gently with a flat head screwdriver. It's only held by little tabs. Remove the inside door handle. It's 1 screw, then you need to slide the handle assembly forward (there are 4 L-...


8

Okay I have lived through this and replacing the seals does need to happen when this becomes a problem. However, seals going bad are not always the problem. Sometimes it is simply a matter of the seals or the metal they contact got wet while the doors are open then you close them and they freeze. The down side here is this can also ruin the seals. The ...


8

My weapon of choice for such a job is something like WD-40's White Lithium Grease:


7

The fact that you can hear some noise from the door with the inoperational lock is an indication that the wiring is fine. There is a good chance that the door lock actuator has gone bad and needs to be replaced.


7

First off, no, you do not need to disconnect anything else. If the key is NOT in the ignition, there is no electricity going through these connectors. So, basically in the image below: Green Arrows: Pry up gently with a flat tip screwdriver to release these catches. Pull gently on the electrical cable as you do this to disconnect. Yellow Arrows: Screws, ...


6

PROBLEM As you can see in the photo, on the lock actuator replacement part for my car door there is a plastic part (left) and a metal part (right). The two parts, metal and plastic, are supposed to move as one unit. If the unit is rotated anti-clockwise then the door lock will be in the locked position. If the door is rotated clockwise then the door would ...


6

Roll the window up and pull the door panel, using various sized wood sticks (long ones for leverage) attempt to push or massage out as much of the dent as possible. You can gently use a hammer on the end of the wood stick to help with the stubborn parts, once you have done all you can do from inside pull the rest of the dent as best you can using a Dent ...


6

As discussed in another recent answer one good method for paint-less dent repair (which is really the only DIY type of dent repair) is to use glue on plastic dent tabs: These come in different shapes and size for differently shaped dents and are applied to the dented area with non-maring hot glue. They are pulled with a handle or slide hammer and can be ...


6

With difficulty ;) Remove the door card (interior trim) if it's not off already - this should reveal a number of holes in the inner skin of the door. Using a small mirror and a torch, try to work out where the wire has gone - it'll probably be in the most inconvenient place possible! You'll then need to use something to try and grab it - I'd recommend a ...


6

Everybody will have a different answer to this question, depending on the money-value of the vehicle the sentimental-value of the vehicle how much longer are you planning to keep it when the time comes to get rid of it, are you planning to sell it or write it off how much damage is there on the door Basically, your options are: new door Probably in the $...


6

The OBD-II port supports a number of electrical protocols, but all of them are serial in nature. There is nothing you can do to any of the OBD-II pins with "plain negative pulses" to do what you want to do. One path to what you want is a cheap ELM327 device sold by just about everyone on Amazon.com. They are very inexpensive and easy to use. If you get one ...


5

I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).


5

I've had central locking refusing to stay locked with several cars when any of the door sensors (or boot lid sensor, or even engine cover sensor) thinks its door is open - whether it's actually the case, or the sensor has jammed for some reason. This hypothesis can be checked by setting the interior lighting to the setting where it lights upon open doors. In ...


4

Essentially, you want to displace the potential condensation that will form after the air inside a warm car cools down. The best suggestion that I have heard is silicone based grease or sprays. Those will discourage the water from sticking around and, later, becoming ice. Anything that might react with rubber is definitely not recommended. This includes ...


4

I have a Focus 2010 model and can confirm that Bobs advise is absolutely right. The same thing happened to me this evening when my passenger door when opened wouldn't latch in again (currently outside temp minus 5c). Just 10 seconds using a hair drier on the latch solved the problem for me. I also then sprayed the mechanism with WD40 for good measure. Had ...


4

It if was freezing outside, it was almost certainly colder inside the latch mechanism. It sounds like ice formed on the spring and / or the latch hinge. You were able to use the leverage of the door handle to move the latch against the friction of the ice but then the spring wasn't able to push it back. When something like this happens, I would suggest ...


4

This is a common 2005-2009 Prius problem. Prius Chat gives a good explanation on how to change them. I recommend you don't get replacement parts from salvage yard. I did this and the door stops again wore out in a few months. It's a pain when the door keeps shutting on you while you unload groceries. I wish there was an affordable aftermarket solution ...


4

We had the same problem on a late 2005 W169. Note you do not need to remove the door card if you just want to remove the door lock cylinder and exterior handle. Once you've loosened the bolt holding the cylinder accessed from the side of the door (On ours it was a T20 - T15 would work but there's a chance of rounding off the head) there is a catch above the ...


4

What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.


4

I would use spray trim adhesive as a first choice, it adheres very well and I have used it for such jobs. If I didn't have that available, I'd use gorilla glue for its waterproof and expanding properties (though a little more hassle than I'd like to put into it), or as a third option general spray adhesive.


4

Referencing the photo it appears the retaining clip is still in place. At the 12 o'clock position you will notice a square shaped tag. Lifting the tab away from the bracket pry the clip in the direction of the small hole that the tab sat in. Again referencing the photo this would be going up. With the amount of corrosion visible I would try to wire brush ...


4

With the damage which is there, a suction cup dent puller is not going to do the job you are looking for it to do. If there was only "dent" damage, the suction cup can sometimes remove them. When you have creasing, pulls, dents, and paint transference, you are going to need a body shop to get this fixed. Alternatively, you could find a replacement door at ...


4

Follow Paulster2's comment is to get a perfect result. But prior to going to a body shop or going to the scrapyard, you might try this: As the dent looks really clean to me, another possibility might be to remove the inner door trims and push against the dent from the inside. You might be able to reach the dent from the inside without too much parts that ...


4

Try using some graphite lube on the lock cylinder before you give up on it. If you remove the lock cylinder, disassemble it, and clean it, you may improve it's function. You should also be able to get the lock cylinder re-keyed at the dealer or a locksmith prior to installation.


4

The heated mirrors have a restive heat strip spiraled around the back of the mirror. It works much like the defrost "wires" on a rear car window but since its a mirror, you can't see them. The MkIII Jetta didn't have a control for the heated mirrors - they were always on, and would fail more often than the switched ones on newer cars, but failure does ...


4

You need to find a way to open the door, slim jim or other tool. Once the door is open you need to remove the lock cylinder to get the broken key out. Depending on the vehicle how hard or easy this is. The cylinder may have been damaged and would need replaced and re-pinned to your key, this would require a locksmith. If you can remove the lock cylinder ...


4

Behind the handle are two studs with nuts that hold the handle in place. You will need to take the interior door panel off and reach into the door to tighten these nuts.


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