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3

No, you shouldn't rebuild the engine unless you have a specific reason. 120k miles isn't that much for a modern engine, so there's no reason to spend the effort, time and money to strip it down. Clean the engine so you find and fix any leaks, do a compression check and do any service items that are due or will become due on the trip like timing chains, ...


3

I found the issue. A small vacuum hose that goes from the vacuum pump to the turbine (waste gate, I assume) was disconnected during the emissions test and just left hanging. It's in a difficult-to-see spot underneath a bracket located between the engine and the battery. The hose is dirty and grimy, while the end of it was shiny and clean. It fits snugly and ...


3

My guess would be that they are electrically operated solenoid valves for shutting off the diesel when the ignition is off. Looks a bit like this in a rubber mount - Taken from - https://12voltfuelvalves.com/product/12-volt-multi-fuel-shut-off-solenoid-valve/


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It could be any or a combination of all of those, so flushing, cleaning, new (quality or oem) filter etc is a good point to start. I would make, or purchase, a tee and fit a pressure gauge temporarily to monitor the behavior. Any real pressure loss compared to light action should be obvious. I would suspect a chafed wire somewhere which brings the light on. ...


2

That sounds like a squeaking ancillary belt (fan belt) to me. This belt drives things like the alternator. May just need adjusting, but may need replacing. Sometimes the noise changes when you add electrical load to the alternator by turning the lights on and the window demister etc.


2

If it's a modern tight tolerance VW engine or such you won't get far. The fuel injection system will wear itself out and make metal fragments in the first 30 miles. The older 80s diesels like the Mercedes can go through a tank or more before damage is noticed. It would heavily depend on how much diesel oil is mixed with the gasoline. You can buy lubrication ...


1

Not MVMR but why not have a small return tank level with the engine and then a separate pump to pump the fuel back to the big tank when close to full. Would only operate sporadically.


1

Bosch is almost certainly the manufacturer of the Audi part. Car companies do not make all their own components, they sub-contract some parts out to other companies or buy existing models of parts from manufacturers. When selling replacements the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer: i.e. the company that made the part in the first place) often sells their ...


1

Although you have probably fixed the error, maybe someone comes here with the similar symptom. First of all, if "Engine malfunction" message was shown, the error had to be stored in the PCM. U-codes won't cause that. In this generation, Ford uses HS-CAN and MS-CAN for communication with modules so there is a possibility you are not getting all of ...


1

if I am looking at the parts you are talking about as you have not circled them, then they could be part of the fuel return system.


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The Bosch Kugelfischer (I'll use "BK" for short going forward) mechanical plunger injection pumps for petrol engines were used across a variety of makes/models of vehicles from the late 60's into the mid-80's. They were derived from the diesel pumps as you suggested. A couple of vehicles which use the BK pump was the BMW 2002Tii and 2002 Turbo. ...


1

So I did some testing and saw that the waste gate actuator is not getting any vacuum on start up. It should be getting vacuum enough to fully close it on startup. I also manually held the waste gate closed while having someone hold the rpms steady at 3000 and verified that the turbo itself is working properly via scan tool showing the requested turbo ...


1

New diesels run very badly on gasoline, if you filled up the tank with gasoline you'd know very quickly as the fuels do mix. Your engine would run rough, spew out lots of black smoke and have poor performance and mileage. If it took 100 miles to notice a judder it's very unlikely to be from contaminated fuel.


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It seems to me the oil might not be returning to the pan quick enough, so after a bit of harder running, when you release the clutch and the RPMs drop, the oil pressure drops to the point where the sensor isn't seeing enough pressure and the light comes on. A Seafoam treatment in the crankcase may help. If it doesn't, I can think of a few things which might ...


1

You can use a clamp amp meter and check current draw of each plug when setting ignition on. Just remember that you must let all plugs cool down before you test next one since the first one is tested cold, and next one may be a little bit warmer due to first test, and so on with third, forth plug etc. Target current draw should be around 20A for each plug. ...


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