If you had antifreeze in there before you started your repair, your motor will be fine. The antifreeze ISN'T so the ENGINE doesn't freeze, it's just "winter-grade" coolant.
Basically, during normal operation, the engine makes way too much heat for it's own good. Modern car engines are designed to be "water-cooled," but the problem in cold climates is that ...
Check the rear stabilizer links. They are located between the lower control arm and the anti sway bar. They should look something like this:
They can have ball and socket joints or rubber bushings. If the joints or bushing wear out, you'll get thumping or squeaking. They are hard to diagnose because they are under a lot of compression when the car ...
Something loose in gearbox that has allowed two pairs of gears to engage at the same time locking the box.
Or something jamming the output shaft.
Separate the output shaft from the gearbox and see if the rear wheel rotates, if still not, then it is something shaft or wheel related.
Trailer it home or to a garage and inspect it properly.
It makes sense.
The picture shows an exhaust cooler, part of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system which helps control emissions. In a diesel engine EGR takes exhaust and puts it back into the intake manifold to adjust the amount of oxygen in combustion, making it cleaner. Exhaust gas is very hot, and it needs to be cooled before if can be re-used, this is ...
Low oil might potentially damage an engine so badly that there is a loss of power. In such an unlikely case, there will be blue smoke coming from the tailpipe due to warn cylinders and poor compression. I did have a car with this condition, years ago, but the loss of power was slight and the bigger issue was loud ping (detonation) on the highway. In your ...
I used to work in automotive assembly plant trouble shooting problems, including squeaks and rattles. This one is wack.
This sounds like a taillamp creak.
The taillamp lens is made from acrylic. If the edge of the lamp is in slight contact with painted sheet metal and there is even the slightest movement of sheet metal you will hear an obnoxious creak ...
There are many things that can cause slugishness, including just 'feeling' and not actually being slugish.
Don't know exactly what THEY would do. Each place might check things a little different.
Here is where I would start -
Use a scanner. Check for codes. Check the sensor values to make sure they look correct. Check fuel correction values. ...
Took Glen's advice to check the connectors and discovered the problem.
The connectors were clean and tight, but when I loosened them and tried starting, it was successful.
A little playing around and we discovered the ground cable itself is bad. Somewhere in the cable must be a fray, because at some angles it functions, and at other angles it fails.