14

Over boring the cylinder is a process to ensure the wall of the cylinder is pristine, providing a sealing surface for the rings to mate. Often when an engine gets old and tired, there will become scuffs in the the cylinder wall surface. This is an example of a scuffed cylinder wall: After boring and honing, the cylinder should look something like this: In ...


13

I think I know If you want citations, I have already failed you. You Asked Was there any reason someone (possibly the Volkswagen group) decided to call this configuration a W-16? Answer Maybe. Looking at this picture you can see the various designs and names of ICE platforms created by VW. If you take a V and push into another V it looks like this. ...


12

I'm by no means an expert, but found an interesting article on Wikipedia about the W engine that indicates the W being a relatively recent addition to the automotive world, but not the aircraft/motorcycle worlds: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W_engine Three different configurations have been called W engines: Three banks of cylinders sharing a common ...


10

You can do a leak down test but look at your spark plugs first If your burning oil you will see it on your spark plugs. They will be black and have buildup on them. If you find one or two that look that way and all the others are very light in color to tan then you probably have oil getting into the combustion chamber. Here are some nice responses ...


7

Your Passat uses torque to yield bolts, so they must be replaced. The torque to yield bolts are considered "one and done". This is because during the torquing process, they are stretched beyond deformation, past their plasticity. If you try to use them again, they will fail. If you reuse them, not only will they fail, but you will most likely cause damage to ...


7

Not a desired answer, but with no leaks (to ground or into coolant) it's possible that your engine is just using/burning what some manufacturers would consider a normal amount of oil: How much is too much? Audi, BMW, and Subaru stick firmly to the statement that oil consumption is a normal part of a car’s operation. Subaru considers a quart burned ...


7

I'm wondering if you are having an issue with oil bypass, as in going through the breather/PCV and ending up getting burned through the intake. A simple catch can would prove this out for you. This happens quite a bit and is easily solved. Two things. The leakdown test will not tell you anything about your oil loss. Its not what a leakdown test if for (...


7

It's completely normal, nothing to worry about It's simply the gap between the sleeves. If you look from above, straight down, you will see a straight edge cut into the outside diameter of the metal sleeves that are pressed into the aluminum cylinder block. The straight edge is there so the sleeves can co-exist in close proximity without encroaching into ...


6

Why chance it when some carb cleaner will do the trick for you. It should take carbon off of the piston without any worry of damage to the piston. Use an old, broken piston ring to clean out the ring lands.


5

tl dr; I'm sure minimal damage (if any) would occur from this, but there really is no telling. A small amount of dirt would usually not cause an issue. It also depends on the size of the dirt. Most "stuff" which would be sitting where you're talking about is probably fairly small. The biggest worry is if it gets stuck at the side of the piston and is forced ...


5

Given that there are no sensors inside the cylinders, I can't think of any way of doing so, other than Mauro's suggestion of removing the plugs and turning it over, which would spurt out any water in them. You could try leaving it to evaporate, but if any cylinders are sitting with both sets of valves shut, any water in those pots won't evaporate off, so ...


5

You can absolutely reuse the piston if it isn't damaged. There are piston compressor tools dedicated to slide the piston back into the cylinder.


4

Use a caliper gauge and measure the height of the new liners with the old ones and also the thickness of the shims from the old liner. I would measure the new vs old liners. You may have needed to turn down the new ones (they can be generic and fit multiple Skoda engines) or they may be the wrong liners (Skoda engine with taller stroke). Those "shims" are ...


4

If it is just condensation you are worried about, then I wouldn't worry. Water is produced normally by the combustion process. I would be more worried about water in the inlet tracts waiting to be sucked in. If it is too difficult to remove the plugs, I would turn the engine over with a wrench a few times, if there is significant water in the cylinders ...


4

"put my hand on the exhaust pipe and there was maybe a very low flow." You have found your problem, there should be 0 flow.


4

You don't say why you needed a leakdown test in the first place. If you rotated the engine by hand in the opposite direction that it normally runs and it has a timing belt then it is possible that the valve timing may have jumped. You would have to remove part of the covers and check that all cam timing markes line up as per the manufacturers specs. If its ...


4

Clutch fluid doesn't go anywhere the only reason to get your fluid level go down is a leak. However if you drained the system for some reason (parts replacement or whatever) there might be air trapped inside the system after you fill it up. After some time that air gets to the top and fluid level goes down. Again this can only occur if you drain the system. ...


3

The longer you run it, the more damage you are going to cause. This will incur more cost when you do go to get it fixed due to the parts involved. Depending on which valve(s) is (are) sticking, you could be doing damage every time you start it up. I'm talking about the exhaust valve, as if one is open during the combustion cycle, you've damaged a valve and ...


3

Dude spend the extra 3 bucks and buy a proper engine cleaner. Spraying sodium hydroxide on aluminum is a bad idea. I would use a nylon brush drill bit to clean off carbon. Although it's technically not an automotive product, I use CLP to clean gunk and carbon off automotive parts. It's great stuff IMO.


3

Replace the bolts, this has been covered in detail on this site : here is one such post with lots of detail : "Always Replace" (torque-to-yield) Bolts


3

I can relate a story from my own experience with my daughter's car. Turns out it had two bad ignition coils that caused the engine to misfire when it was raining. Did she stop when the check engine light came on? Nope! So the unburned fuel from the misfiring cylinders ends up in the catalytic converter. These things are designed to handle mostly burned ...


2

My suggestion is to go with set #1 without any modification to the pins or adding anything to the pins. While the pins are a bit shorter than what comes stock, they should work fine. The difference of only 5mm (or 0.1969") is not a huge one. These should be handle this size of engine without giving you any problems. I think you have too many issues with the ...


2

If the AutoZone person cleared the codes, the light won't come back on. Usually, when a CEL occurs, I'll clear the codes and see if they come back. If they don't come back, then I'm wary of the item, but I'm less worried about it. If it doesn't come back on, there's no real need to worry about it. This is completely normal behavior for the CEL as described. ...


2

technically yes. You can only bore them out so many times before they will need to be replaced. Each time you bore it you can usually expect it to last just as long as it did last time. Once it is worn out again you will need to bore it again or replace it if its walls are too thin. Typically compression ratios don't change enough to warrant any changes. ...


2

It really depends on how far down the piston travels in the bore as well as if this is the thrust side of the piston or not. If the piston skirt travels lower than where the chip is at, the only option you'd have to reuse the block is to get a new cylinder liner installed into the block. In most cases with small engines, this doesn't make economic sense. You ...


2

Does coolant fluid in the cylinder well indicate gasket failure again? Indeed it does! Or it may also mean that the original problem was not actually a head gasket. The next likely causes are warped or cracked cylinder head or engine block.


1

The answer is that the scraper ring does not remove 100% of the oil, a VERY thin film is left on the surface which provides the lubrication necessary. Some engines will score the walls, but others, on re-build need "glaze-busting" to remove the baked on layer of oil deposited over time.


1

It pretty much depends on how much you drove this way. If there is less coolant the car will heat up the remaining coolant a lot quicker, and once it reaches a hot enough temperature, most modern cars will display an error or warning, or a simple thermometer warning light will turn on and they won't let the car rev further so that the engine won't get any ...


1

Old piston rings vs. new They must use new rings to compensate for the alteration in the cylinder. Old rings won't seat correctly. Longevity You take off a bitsy bit of metal each time, so eventually, you wear down the cylinder to the point where it no longer supports the pressure. Disadvantages Loss of fuel economy unless you bore it out enough to put ...


1

I would be more concerned about debris damaging the internal plug threads on an aluminium head. Aluminium thread is surprisingly easy to damage. A little grit or sand trapped between the plug and threads will lead to a quick realization of why some heads are compared to cheese.


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