Let's start with some pictures to try and clear up the function of the fuel system.
Both images and a lot of the information comes from here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/returnless_efi.htm
There are two main types of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems. The return type, and the returnless type. In the return type, excess fuel is pumped to the fuel ...
Could be stretched timing chains or a problem with the vvt gear, stretched chains will give an incorrect reading between the cam sensor and the crank sensor (essentially engine is out of time) and will usually fail to start once stretched to far, if the correlation between cps and crank sensor if different for I think 5 seconds car will not start
Could also ...
Sorry for the long wait fellas, but after banging my head for a few days, I finally figured out what was the issue. It wasn't injector problem nor the fuel pump. It turned out to be a BMW clamp that got loose and pressure popped off the hose it held down inside the gas tank. Look at photo:
OK, so I've fixed it.
After posting my question here and since my feeling was that the problem seems to be related to some air bubbles in the fuel system, I've decided to take out the fuel filter, drain all the diesel fuel, fill it manually (by using 10ml syringe since I hadn't a manual pump) with diesel and mount it back.
I've tried to start the engine ...
P0340 is certainly a reason why the vehicle isn't starting but it indicates an issue with the camshaft position sensor rather than the crank.
You really need to check the output of the camshaft sensor with an oscilloscope to see if you have a good signal.
You also seem to have an issue with the crankshaft sensor, it should not wear out as nothing should be ...
Since this car is a diesel, there are only 3 things required to make it run - fuel, air, and compression. As the problem is intermittent, it's probably not the compression (though that should be checked anyway). That leaves fuel and air, which must mix at a certain ratio to detonate in the cylinders.
So, you either have a fuel system problem causing you to ...
Check circuit F28 for open. (Pin 9 DLC to A16 PCM)
Check pin 3 (Immobilizer) to 14 DLC for continuity.
If okay, may be inclined to replace immobilizer as first course of action.
After replacement, consider researching Honda 'automatic key registration'. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to look into it. Recently, I replaced an immobilizer on a ...
So, after the edits to the original question, the tenor of the question changed, and a new key piece of information has emerged. Spraying starter fluid into the throttle body gets the engine to turn over. So, clearly you have a fuel issue. It's an Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system, and I suspect it's a non-return EFI system. So for the fuel to get from ...
This good answer has a list of all Jeep OBDI codes, pulling out the relevant ones we have:
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal
54 camshaft reference circuit not detected
55 end of message
12 and 55 are not errors, 27 and 54 are, so concentrate on them.
Is it most likely a battery problem?
Yes. Weak cranking is a tell-tale sign. The radio most likely needs a certain voltage to remain operational, so your observations point to a weak battery.
Can I get a jump and take it to a shop?
Check the cables on the back of the alternator are connected correctly.
Charge the battery.
Turn the ignition on and check that the battery charge warning light illuminates.
Start the car and check that the battery charge light extinguishes.
If the battery charge light is still lit up, then either the belt is slipping, the alternator is faulty or the cables ...
If you're smelling exhaust in the cabin, it's not due to an air leak, but an exhaust leak. You could be having some issues there if your leak is prior to the O2 sensor in your exhaust pipe. Your ECU would think you have too much air in the mix, therefore making you run rich and flooding the engine so it won't start. Check your O2 sensor and inspect for ...
It turned out it was an intermittently open wire to the cam position sensor. Unfortunately between then and now one of the mechanics bent the valves by installing the intake cam upside down so I still don't have a working car.
For crank no start issues with most fuel-injected cars (like your Lincoln) you need to troubleshoot around 3 main issues.
You need to verify you are getting spark and timing is correct.
You need to verify you are getting the correct amount of fuel.
You need to verify you are getting air into the engine.
You can rent tools for 1 and 2 from places like ...
Your air intake temperature sensor (IAT) or coolant temperature sensor may be faulty or shorted to ground. The computer calculates the fuel delivery based on the outside temperature. Cold air is denser and requires more fuel. If the computer thinks it's 90 degrees outside when it's cold it won't deliver enough fuel to start the car. If you have a scan tool ...
If you are playing with engine wirings, always disconnect the battery. ECU will never fail and will last forever unless something mechanically damages it, or you have a shortage where it is not acceptable. Normally ECU works on 12v, sensors 5v. ECU is very sensitive box, and it "burns" if you mess up the wires. I personally saw my co-worker "repairing" a ...
Check all the fuses and all the fusable links, hopefully he fried one of them. The colour of the fuse means the amperage that it can handle, it is the bell-shaped curve inside that you are checking. Look for a gap.
Here's a good vs bad comparison. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace.
It looks like your issue is with fuel supply. Possible things to check for:
a clogged fuel filter
a bad fuel pressure regulator
Both of these can cause insufficient pressure in the fuel rail, resulting in a lack of fuel delivery to the cylinders.
After having to remove the gearbox twice, I can now answer this. I'm not sure if your problem was resolved or not, but for any other people that have the same issue, car will crank for half a second and then stop cranking, or crank for a few seconds but sound like the timing is out, diagnostics does not show engine speed or shows very slow engine speed (150-...
As mentioned in the comment, it could be the PGM FI Main Relay. The linked forum has (in the second post) an image that shows how to test that relay and it looks like the age range is right too.
Relays do intermittently fail sometimes which can make debugging and testing a bit difficult. You may just buy a new one and see if that handles the problem. They ...
The PGI main relay is a fairly common failure on these cars. They fail intermittently because of a fractured solder joint in the relay. The circuit boards expands and contracts and that causes an intermittent no power to the fuel injector. The rely is in the dash above the glove box. It's a cheap fix
Check to see if there is 12volts at the dist coil pink wire with key on.
Also those had issues with the crank sensor getting damaged due to the sensor ring on the crankshaft harmonic balancer becoming loose or the balancer itself coming apart, the balancer also drives the belt that came off.
There was an updated balancer for that year model also, so there ...
I doubt "intake" air is the problem - diesels will run on very wide air/fuel ratios.
Perhaps there was air getting into the fuel system, which can cause improper injection and failure to provide fuel to the cylinders.
Also, the health of the glowplugs should be checked.
I'd start with a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Observe while [attempting] ...
The virago carburetors are somewhat tricky to clean properly. I have an 86 Virago 700, which has a "tube jet" instead of just a pilot jet. I had to use the properly sized guitar string to clean these out. Carb clean wasn't enough.
Also, there's some bad advice floating out to drill out the pilot jets. It's possible your carbs have these drilled out ...
This sounds like you have a power leak somewhere draining the battery as it sits overnight. This could be a simple as a map light being left on or a trunk light or something similar staying on due to a faulty switch.
The other cause of a power leak would be a short in a wire or component that isn't bad enough to blow its fuse but enough to drain the ...
With the help of a friend, I eventually got my car started. The spark plugs were very worn, but this was not the underlying cause of my problem. The engine had become flooded with fuel.
The problem was resolved with a jump start from another vehicle (my jump start battery was not enough), and an extended key ignition. The starter motor turned the engine ...
The honda ignition switches are common failures. It sounds very likely to be your problem.
Not the lock cylinder. The plastic switch. What happens is the plastic gets worn out from the metal spindle on the back of the lock cylinder to where it can no longer complete the turn to the spring loaded "crank" position.