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This is very common in car parks and it has nothing to do with your car in particular. The squealing is because of the surface coating that is used in car parks. The surface is coated with epoxy-like material because it is anti-slip and resistant to oil and chemicals, which otherwise could harm the concrete floor. A side effect is that rubber tires may ...


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Yeah most of them don't make a lick of sense: AM2 AM1 These are for the ignition switch. P/W Power windows ECU-IG Main EFI relay, ECU, various sensors.. lots of important things basically. INV Inverter P/POINT 12v Power outlet (the one in the back) ECU-B Daytime Running Lights CIG Power outlet (in the front)/cigarette lighter,...


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I have never seen a used water pump without evidence of some scoring. Light scoring is normally due to particles that are swept around with the coolant, these can still be used. Heavy scoring, really deep gouges and worn blade edges are usually due to bearing failure, accompanied by noises, which means replacement.


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This could be either a drive problem, or an engine problem. One easy check for whether it's a transmission problem is to put it in neutral, and see if the problem continues. If it does (stays relatively the same), then it's not a transmission problem (your transmission is disengaged). If it's a transmission problem, you'd start by checking fluid, and then ...


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The "maintenance required" light is tied to mileage on these - it will start coming on 5000 miles after it was last reset (which it should have been last time you had the oil changed), it doesn't know/care what the actual state of the oil is - just that 5000 miles have been driven since it was last reset. The oil looks okay in your picture - and to be ...


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Most modern fuel injection engines use no fuel when in gear but off the gas, as the momentum of the car will keep the pistons moving, so you're actually using more gas than you need to if you're in neutral. Being in gear also utilises engine braking. When going down a hill, being in a low gear, say 2nd or 3rd for a manual but works with automatics too, ...


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This is a driving technique question that will end up closed. Using engine braking when going downhill reduces the load on the brakes and as some have found brake fade can be an issue. Slowing down for lights from a distance is good driving practice - it’s called anticipation, but not sure about your “unnecessary speed ups” - controlling the accelerator is ...


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You are absolutely correct about wearing your brake pads. You need to downshift. My car, a 2016 Toyota RAV4 hybrid too has S position even though it has CVT. The S position has 6 simulated gears. You move to the S position laterally from the D position. Then, in the S position, you push the shifter forwards or backwards to upshift and downshift, ...


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Those are fuses or fusible links. Can’t tell from the photo which one will go where, but can see 60A and 30A. Edit to 60 & 30 based in comment. If you can see the wires - and one pair is thicker than the other, then put the 60A on the thicker ones.


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Supreme gas is overkill. I would consider another cleaner like Seafoam who makes a fuel additive and top cleaner sprayed into the intake. Search youtube for info on that. They even make crankcase cleaners. In an 07, when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? If there is a large fleck of metal floating around your transmission that would ...


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0W-20 is the recommendation from Toyota. Right in your owner's manual. 5W-20 if 0W-20 isn't available


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If the engine is left at tickover - as you say for 10 minutes, then it is not necessarily charging the battery. If you want it to charge then you should increase the engine speed to 1500 or 2000 rpm, then it will charge at a decent rate. However, if the battery is defective then all the charging may not help anyway. Get the battery tested (perhaps give it ...


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I'm not sure if your Corolla is this way, but if the car uses the wheel sensor(s) to calculate the speed of the vehicle and a sensor is bad, not only would the ABS light be on (because of the bad sensor), but the bad sensor would also prevent the speedometer and the odometer from working. You need to utilize a code reader (one which can read ABS systems) ...


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Most likely issue would be a clogged / deteriorated brake hose. You could try to disconnect the brake hose from the brake line and see if it bleeds OK from the line. If the fluid moves fine before the hose, the hose is the issue.


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Find a gravel car park and execute a slow full-lock turn in a circle, reverse probably better than forwards. Tell us whether it feels like the car is "grabbing" at the surface, and/or whether you notice the surface of the car park is disturbed (probably by the inner wheel) more than you'd expect. Most of the front wheel drive cars I've had, when on the ...


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Had the same problem, Coolant going everywhere. changed the plastic thermostat neck, changed the water pump. Still coolant going everywhere. Took the timing chain cover off to reseal and discovered that the chamber inside the motor mount that is bolted thru the timing chain cover has a hole in the top for ventilation I guess. Well over the years it sealed ...


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I had the same issue today. Here is what I found to help. With the caliper hung out of the way, I removed the torque plate with the old pads still on. The bolts holding this on are 17mm. With the plate off I could quickly remove the very corroded pads with a hammer. I then could easily reach all the nooks and crannies with a wire brush to clean up the ...


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