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Coolant coming out clean is a good sign. How to spot a bad radiator A radiator is a device consisting of tubes through which coolant flows and fins connecting the tubes. The fins increase the surface area of the radiator (dramatically), increasing cooling efficiency. The surface of the radiator should look uniform. If there is an area where the fins are ...


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The engine, if the rest of the cooling system is in good order, will run too cold. This will affect fuel consumption, emissions and perhaps power delivery. While this is often done for short periods, ie to deal with a faulty 'stat, it is not advised for long periods. Best thing is to get the thermostat replaced.


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If the hoses are shedding rubber then they are nearing their end of life. To avoid problems, like having one burst open on the road, you should replace any of them which are showing signs of age. Being pliable is NOT a reliable test, in fact when they get old and start to deteriorate they usually get more pliable. Replacing the hoses is not that expensive ...


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Your car's coolant is cooled via a radiator mounted at the front of the engine bay. Typically, this radiator has one or more fans on it, which the car turns on and off as appropriate to control the amount of air moving through the radiator. This lets the car's control systems manage the temperature of the coolant even when in different operating conditions (...


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Radiator flush isn't anything magic. It is just a corrosive liquid that attacks everything in contact with it, to greater or lesser extent. You hope it dissolves the blockage before it makes a mess of anything critical like the cooling passages in the cylinder block or the inside of your water pump, or it dissolves a hole in the radiator itself. (Old ...


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The long term effect is that the leak will etch a groove in both your engine block and heads. There may be a groove already there, but it could still be within "surface flatness" standards. Causing structural damage to your block and heads is a costly mistake. The "flatness" standards for each gasket mounting surface should be outlined in the shop manual ...


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If you mean will it keep the pressure in the system, I'd think not, though that'd be an educated guess. There's two things which are working against you here. First, you cannot get the cable tie tight enough. They just won't allow you to. Secondly, as everything heats up, the cable tie will get soft and expand. In both cases, the coolant when it gets up to ...


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Could be a number of problems but from simplest to most complicated: 1) Bad radiator cap: The cap is supposed to onto vent coolant when the pressure exceeds the system limit. If it's bad it may allow coolant to leak out at a lower pressure. Try a new cap. 2) Bad thermostat: Can be stuck closed or nearly closed and this overheats the coolant in the engine ...


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The oddity is there to lessen fan noise. The uneven spaces creates air pulses that cancels out some of the noise, without lessening the ability of the fan to move air.


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What @blacksmith37 says is true, kinda. You could stick the hose into a catch bottle, and that would tell you that coolant is coming out during high load, high temp conditions. That's it. The coolant in that bottle WILL not go back into the radiator during cool down, like in a more modern cooling system. What makes that work in a modern flow back overflow ...


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It's impossible to say how long a relatively minor head gasket failure will stay that way, it depends on the placement and nature of the failure, as well as other factors. It will certainly get worse, either all at once or gradually. Being gentle on the power will certainly help. If it's gradual you can live with it, but all the while you're getting oil in ...


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Just to illustrate how subjective this question is - about 10 years ago, I bought a 1939 Farmall tractor from the son of the original purchaser. The family had actively used the tractor on a small farm from new until a few years before I bought it, it had unknown thousands of hours on it. It clearly had a (minor) headgasket leak. The son (who was in his ...


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As jwh20 stated in comments, the ambient air temp sensor is for the outside and has absolutely nothing to do with the engine coolant. From your description, you've not indicated anything which shows the vehicle is overheating. Your description leads me to believe you are worrying about something which doesn't exist. The vehicle is most likely running as ...


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To explain for clarity, the HOLD function is to allow the transmission to select a specific gear range by pressing the button by the shifter. If it's flashing, it probably means there's a condition that's going to keep you from using HOLD mode. Based on resources like this, it seems temperature malfunctions are one of those conditions so fixing it should ...


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I don't think the clock resetting is related to this, although it could be a symptom of a computer problem. The possibilities that come to mind are: Sensor failure: the temperature sensor may have failed and be giving a low reading Sensor wiring problem: this is fairly likely, it all comes down to how electronic temperature sensors (i.e. thermocouples) work:...


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Replace the cap. If the car hasn't overheated, don't worry about any possibly damage, there shouldn't be any. Check the coolant level. If low, refill with 50/50 premix Honda coolant (the blue stuff). Some Hondas have issues where if you do not use Honda coolant, it will slowly eat the head gasket and cause it to leak, which will cause you an endless array of ...


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Well it worked. Two large zip ties on the bottom hose, after one of those Ford spring hose clips broke. Got me to work, where i fitted a proper hose clip. Slackened off the filler cap abit when driving.


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It's not just marketing - although there is a lot of money to be made from vehicle care and parts. The coolant additive must protect the engine from corrosion, cavitation, and scale. Different engine types run at different temperatures, and there are various coolant standards for them. Also, some engines are made of aluminium, others of iron, and they need ...


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Firstly, please, understand that overflow tank (what you called a coolant tank) and radiator is a system. They're meant to work together. Expanded hot coolant is meant to return to the overflow tank from the radiator when the engine is hot. 1. If you are really using water instead of coolant - that may be your problem. It boils faster than a coolant, hence, ...


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There are two types of coolant level management system. The goal is to ensure no air remains trapped within the coolant system. Air voids in heater core degrade heater performance and make noise. Air voids in the top of the head lead to poor cooling, possible warping. Bad stuff. In one type there is an overflow bottle, fed by a single small diameter hose ...


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Probably. Sulfamic acid is the material of choice to clean industrial tube heat exchangers. These units are steel and brass. I can't say if it is good with aluminum as aluminum is almost never used in refinery heat exchangers. I doubt your radiator is steel, I have never seen a steel auto radiator. Today they are generally aluminum . Older ones were copper ...


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disaster waiting to happen That is correct. I recommend that you replace the hose, both clamps and top up the coolant as soon as possible.


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If you took your car in and asked for the water leak to be repaired, then that is what they will do. They cannot fix every issue on the car "just because it is there" because you will refuse to pay for work done that was not asked for. They cannot guess which issues you want fixed unless you point out all that you want done. Sadly, getting it fixed for ...


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Does it actually overheat, or does it just go very near the red portion of the meter, with a sound of the radiator fan running? If the latter, it's perfectly normal. I have had every single car with no start/stop that I owned do the same. As there's no airflow at standstill, the radiator fan is needed. Its starting point is purposefully larger than the ...


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Coolant formulation is just as the terminology suggests. It's not "only" anti-freeze, but a combination of chemical substances which provide optimum heat transfer as well. The ratio recommended for a specific manufacturer's product will cover hot and cold weather equally well, unless otherwise specified on the label. As you've created two questions in one ...


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I'm too new to comment, what year is it? What you describe makes it sound like the water pump isn't getting the correct power from the belt. Check all your pulleys and the tensioner, if one thing isn't working right on that belt it will cause other things to go wrong down the road. Also driving warm (hot) regularly can cause innocent leaks from hoses ...


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The air needs to be bled from the cooling system. There should be a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing. You'll want to loosen the screw on the valve and run the engine until air stops coming out of the bleeder valve, and you have a steady stream of coolant coming out. Once that's completed you'll want to let the engine cool down and check the ...


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Well the new radiator came with a new radiator cap...and it still did it's thing. That being said, I got tired of monkeying with the thing and just tore it apart. I found the cylinder head was warped, the gasket was fine but the multi- layered gasket showed antifreeze between the two center cylinders and when I put a straight edge across it, there was a ,...


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No, I do not believe that your engine as designed would possibly operate for very long without coolant in the water jackets. Even if ordinary engine oil was poured in there in place of the water, it would not work very well as others have explained. I don't disagree with any of the answers listed to this point. However, I would say that once one begins to ...


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Mine did this. After checking everything basic and replacing things/bleeding air out .. it ended up being the water pump. It wasnt out but was old and not pushing enough water through at idle causing pressure to build up at idle.


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