16

It's one of the Heated Windscreen connectors. They have a reputation for breaking off on the Ford Focus, because the wipers hit them if they're not routed correctly. It's common for replacement glass companies to not notice that the car has a heated screen, so don't spend any money fixing it until you've confirmed that it still has a heated screen. This ...


9

The connector will need to be replaced. It looks to be fused together. The metal connector terminals were the cause of the original problem. The usual problem is that the connector makes poor contact due to loose fit in the female terminals this causes resistance and therefore heating of the connectors.


8

It seems that this is one of Delphi's own proprietary connectors - it's not a Tyco one. From a cursory search, the mating connector appears to be "Delphi 13658062". However there is no datasheet for that one for some reason. There is information on the Delphi 13658063 which is the same except for the locating notch position. In fact if you look at the ...


8

That looks like a flex connector that has broken off. Perhaps part of a windscreen heater? Labone Heated Screen Connectors


8

This is the access port for the tire iron so you can lower the spare tire from under the truck. Look at your Owner's Manual under "Vehicle Care," it will show you where on the truck to find your tire changing tool kit and how to use it to lower the spare tire.


8

Unfortunately there is no "one-size-fits-all" recipe, but here are some general guidelines: Half the battle is in understanding how it disconnects The chances of me damaging a connector due to ignorance is far higher than damage resulting from old age. Ask me how I know. Have some flathead screwdrivers handy It helps to have various shapes and sizes since ...


8

Push or pull the gray thingy. The connector should then unlock.


6

Dont you have to remove the connector with the green/black wire also? In your photo it looks like the connectors are melted together. You can get a knife and try to seperate them first. The blue wires goes to your blower speed setting switch on dash. The green/black wire goes to the blower. Even if you remove the connector. The old connector may not fit to ...


6

You asked Wondering if anyone else has seen it or knows the manufacturer/series? Go here. Enter the part number into the search field. (Part Number - MG641029) Your connector will pop up and you can add it to your cart for purchase.


6

The second image shows a U-nut,speed nut or clip nut depending on the manufacturer. They are available at most auto parts suppliers. They are available in a variety of thread sizes and the length of the clip also varies with application. The easiest means of selecting the correct size is to remove one and match it at the store.


5

I think @Zaid is correct on the first one (A/C). The second one, however, I believe is actually the Power Steering Pressure Sensor (PSPS) Connector, which uses the same pig tail as the injector harness, but would account for the good running engine. (Motorcraft part number WPT372) EDIT: Looking at the new pictures, it appears the upper pulley replaces an A/...


5

Given its proximity to the AC compressor, the one to the left appears to be the wire for the AC compressor clutch; the connector looks similar to the one for a brand-new replacement: I'm speculating that the one on the right side of the picture is a fuel injector connector, a clearer picture from a different angle would help:


5

That's a steering rack boot that you're replacing - it's a pretty simple job (I do them on the family cars). DON'T buy the single use clip. It's exactly what you don't need, because it requires a special tool to tighten it up. Only about $25 online, but add that to the two clips, and it's getting up in cost for no real reason. These boots don't rotate. ...


5

You don't have to replace the metal collet (crimped part) with a new one. Just replace the hose and put a jubilee clamp (worm gear hose clamp) in its place. Easy peasy and a whole lot less money. The only way I've seen them come is as an entire unit (hose and pipe with collet installed ... as a single unit). Getting a hose clamp is a very viable option.


4

H11 Bulb connectors are readily available from Ebay sellers, but will no doubt be available from an automotive shop. They usually come with short wires fitted, so you will need some way of connecting it to you existing wires after chopping off the old connector. The best way of doing this is soldering and heat shrinking some insulation. An alternative to ...


3

Have you actually tried hooking it up as you suggested and ignoring pin 6 (circuit 54) on the trailer connector? I think it is likely that the trailer is wired with a single filament for the turn signals and brake lights and that pin 6 is not connected. One of the common ways of providing braking on a trailer towed by a car is with electric brakes. Pin 6 ...


3

these are quite the pain in the bum when theyre not cooperating. It takes some time but I like to use slip joint pliers to grab onto the sides of the connectors and wiggle it out of there while I press down on the clip. Once it moves a bit out of its locking position, you can let go of the clip with whatever finger your using to press it down and let the ...


3

You have to pull (really hard) on this grey lever. It comes out about 3 inches vertically and unlocks the connector:


3

They are plastic (expanding) rivets or at least that's what we called them.


3

On Amazon.com, they are called Fender Bumper Clips, Auto Plastic Push Pins Nylon Rivets Retainer. They come in various sizes, depending on what your manufacturer calls for. The size is determined by the size of the hole they are made for ... the ones in the picture below are considered 8mm:


3

It's purely for power purposes. If you are just towing a small trailer you'll only need to use the black one , but if you also have a fridge and other high power kit on a caravan, then you will need to also use the white socket. pfjones.co.uk, who do a lot of electrics for caravans have the following on their tow bar electrics page (the first pic is black ...


3

It appears to me that the connector's locking mechanism has been broken off (by a previous owner perhaps??) and a makeshift fix was to apply some silicone sealant to keep the connector from coming loose.


2

The part should be available at any automotive shop. Alternately, you can check junkyards. Be sure to cut the wires at about 6" to give you wires to connect to.


2

Just to post a follow up, the adaptor for both got the job done :) my kenwood stereo now fits perfectly and works like a charm.


2

As supplied the Kenwood unit will have included a loom the same as this one (from your question). If the unit no longer had this loom with it, I'm afraid you will need to buy another. The end which fits in the stereo is Kenwood specific but the other end (that plugs into the car) is an ISO standard connector. Sadly the ISO standard does not include pins ...


2

OK, so the converter combines both the brake/turn signal into a single wire designed for a dual-filament bulb. It will send different voltage to the bulb such that either one filament is light or the other, or even both at the same time (read more). This means that is the converter is meant for the 4-pin connector only and will not work with a 7-way socket (...


2

If all else fails, wrecking yards (I'm not sure what they call them in the UK) may have the same car you own. It's as simple as clipping one out of a wrecked car, then soldering it into yours. It's been my experience, such places don't charge much for it and it'll be an exact fit. If the wreckers don't have your exact model, you may also look at models close ...


2

I chased the Molex part (33471-0301) suggested by @NateGreco to Molex's website, but following the data sheet link from the page Nate linked to on Digikey's site. There I found the set of this PDF of the engineering drawings for the connector that are linked below. The drawings should enable you to determine pretty conclusively if this is the right connector....


2

What I think you are looking for is Di-Electric Grease. Di-electric grease seals, lubricates, waterproofs and insulates electrical connections with a thin, non-curing silicone compound that helps maintain electrical performance by reducing voltage drops and problems caused by adverse weather conditions. Di-electric grease also provides an exceptional ...


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