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7

Three things I can think of: Do you have another key to try? May just not like the key you are trying. Is the steering wheel cocked at all, where there may be causing pressure on the key lock? Try giggling the steering column as you are trying to turn the key (assume you might have tried this, but don't know). Your locking mechanism may be frozen. You could ...


4

The easiest way to determine the year of the vehicle is through the Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. There is a ton of information in the VIN and part of that is the year code. VINs since 1972 have been 17 digits. They tell not only the year, but the manufacturer, where it was made, the model, and lots of other goodies. Break it down as such: This is ...


4

If you look up from underneath the steering column there is a hole where you can push a button or a tab to release the key with a srewdriver.


4

You need to jump start your car. Pop the hood. You'll see something like this: Inside the green circle is the positive jump point. Connect the red jumper cable clamp there first. Find an unpainted ground spot and attach your negative clamp there. Once connected to the donor car, you'll have power to do what you need ... either start the car, or pop the ...


3

No. There would need to be valves either side of the condenser to limit gas loss, but even then you would still lose a condenser full of gas. You would then have the problem that you have a new condenser full of air that would be released into the system. The A/C needs emptying, repairing, vacuuming then refilling.


3

There appears to be a similar case on the Cobalt forum, where compression test figures are reported to be around 220 psi, roughly double what you're reporting. If this is the case for your vehicle, it would seem that the problem is related to a lack of compression and not fuel, air or spark.


3

Actually, the wires that you have are thus: Big fat gnarly wire is the main power wire, as you surmised. It comes directly from the battery. It provides power to the solenoid, not to the starter though (well, ultimately it gets to the starter ... I'll explain). There are two parts to the starter (in most vehicles). The larger part which actually attaches to ...


3

Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


2

Turns out the problem was the key security system. Apparently the switched voltage reset the key security, which caused my key to not be recognized by the car. After getting the security reprogrammed to accept my key, the car works as usual.


2

Two things come to mind, the blend door motor seized while trying to home (not that uncommon an occurrence after disconnecting the battery or if it dies) or you need to home the controller/motor. The homing /calibration is as follows: set the temp controls to a little over 1/2 set the fan on medium (3) turn the ignition off remove the HVAC fuse or ...


2

There are a number of things that can cause premature alternator failure. Substandard replacement parts - it could just be that you have gotten substandard parts that fail more readily Poor/damaged ground - a bad ground can cause the alternator to surge and damage the voltage regulator Weak/bad battery - a battery that is not holding a charge becomes a load ...


2

Take a look at the wiring diagram below. The important clue is you said the middle brake light isn't working. The CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Light) works only from closing the dedicated relay. This signal provides power to the lamp, and also instructs the engine and transmission control modules that you are braking. Unfortunately, this function is ...


2

On our '07 Cobalt, (1) I have the same non-canceling turn signal problem. I believe it's a mechanical issue. This guy says he has a fix, and an explanation. (Long, lots of pix, I'm not going to quote it ... so, -1 for me.) (Additional info: Something I read (the owner's manual?) suggested Chevy had tricked up the switch, so it won't cancel on lane ...


1

In almost all cars inner part of the door isn't sealed from the outside. When rain falls water gets to the glass, then goes down and enters inner part of the door and then all the way down and through the drain holes it goes out of the door (btw if these drain holes are clogged with some dirt water keeps inside the door for some time and causes corrosion). ...


1

Yes, you can flush the motor with the radiator out. Take a garden hose and put it in the bottom radiator hose or inlet. then tightly squeeze a towel in around the hose. Turn on the hose and wait for the water to run clean out the top hose or outlet.


1

You could try using jump leads to a spare battery or another car's battery. Connect the positive to the large connector on the engine starter motor. Connect the negative to a suitable point on the engine. This should then power up the car electrics. Obviously this only possible if you can get to the started motor either from under the bonnet/hood, or ...


1

I think this is simply the tires reacting to the different levels of traction available on the mixed surface. Slip angles on the tires is going to be very different. On dry pavement going slowish when you turn the wheel the car changes direction and the angle of the front tires is generally aligned with the direction of travel - little to no slip angle. On ...


1

Kind of sounds like a possible ignition switch. Go onto Chevy website. Check for recalls.


1

Two months isn't enough time for the tensioners to seize without significant environmental issues. I've left my Solstice (same motor) sitting at the airport for several months before and come back to a dead battery, flat tire, and no seizing. Assuming this is not a Cobalt SS (turbo), that engine has two belts: one drives the power steering pump, the other ...


1

Likely, one of your pulleys seized. Check all of them, see if you can turn them by hand. You won't be able to turn the crankshaft by hand, but all the other ones, you can and should.


1

On newer cars, the timing chain tensioner works off of oil pressure. When your car sits, the oil pressure bleeds off. So when you start it, you hear the timing chain slapping. It a common problem especially with hondas and "entry level" chevys


1

In the transmission your car has, a frequent issue I saw as a GM trans tech was the oil pressure tubes cracking that provide pressure to the forward clutch. They are above the filter on the bottom of the trans. When these break, the car will have reverse but no forward.


1

If the alternator passed the test, then the alternator belt passed the test also. :) If the belt was loose or needing replacement, the alternator wouldn't be able to put out it's proper voltage. A corroded battery terminal or engine ground could prevent the battery from getting it's proper amperage from the alternator, so this is your first task: clean the ...


1

if it is since you have replaced a hub and bearings, on the same wheel, then all you can do is to get the wheel off and look for a reason. Maybe a new hub wheel studs touches something. Looking now for your hub in Google, and looks like it might be the bolt that holds the hub (3 bolts, red arrow) touching one of a wheel stud (green arrow). Or just any other ...


1

On GMs the only time the engine power reduced message is displayed is when there's a fault with the electric throttle, throttle position sensors or the accelerator pedal position sensors. Depending on mileage and the code you may need to have a throttle service done. Personally I wouldn't worry about engine temp running around 200*F. if it's a concern you ...


1

I had the same problem. This is the dumbest "circular logic" problem an engineer can make. I had to "reverse birth" myself by jamming my arm between the back seats to release the passenger rear seat lever. My arm was just long enough to push the lever (normally pulled from the rear of the car), but when I pushed the lever, my body was pushing on the seat. ...


1

A common culprit for that error is the throttle by wire system. If the car senses that something is the matter with either the throttle body or the gas pedal it will reduce power. The best way to verify this is to have the codes pulled. You should see a code for the throttle body or the gas pedal.


1

In addition to Paulster2's suggestions, try jiggling the shifter (shaft and button). Also, there is a recall for the ignition lock cylinder on your vehicle that has been all over the news. The fix for that may solve your problem. Check your battery (it's in the trunk), too. The interior lights coming on don't mean it's 100%. There is a button in a ...


1

Which O2 sensor did they change out? You wrote he changed out B1/S1 which would be the one pre-cat or the first one (upstream) which actually adapts the fuel to running conditions. The one which should have been looked at is B1/S2, or the one which is downstream ... the second one which its only job is to check how the cat is doing (mainly to check to make ...


1

The code P0420 is "Catalyst Efficiency below threshhold" First check the exhaust gases on a emissions gas tester. If the CO2 and CO together are less than around 14.5% with the engine in good condition, no faults- then you are looking at a defective cat.


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