5

There are a couple different techniques you can use. Similar to what you mentioned, connect a hose to the bleeder, submerge the end of the hose in brake fluid. Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close the bleeder, release the pedal. The hose submerged in fluid acts as a 1 way check valve. Closing the bleeder before releasing the pedal ensures no air ...


5

"While some air almost certainly got in, I don't suspect it was enough to make the pedal fall straight to the floor" You should have no air at all in the system. This symptom is typical of air in the system. A lot of care needs to be taken when bleeding, "close enough" will not work. Pick up a hand-powered vacuum pump off amazon or a local auto store for ...


4

It sounds like you opened the power steering reservoir. If so, these usually use the same red dexron fluid as automatic transmissions. Usually there is a symbol on the cap to identify it. Quite often the power steering has a steering wheel symbol. You really need to know exactly what to put in before you add anything.


3

Shared or separate reservoirs the method to bleed is the same, just don't run out of fluid. The pedal not coming back up depends on where the return spring(s) are - some have one on the pedal box as well as a small one in the slave cylinder. Others may only have a stronger one in the slave cylinder, so it may be the spring in the pedal box has come off or ...


3

To my mind, there is no way clutch hydraulics will have anything to do with the steering of the vehicle. These two systems do not connect or influence the other in any way, shape, or form. There has to be something else going on.


3

IMHO it is not normal: The clutch is supposed to spring up directly when you release it. I can think about the following potential root causes: (Provided your car has an hydraulic clutch actuator) The brake fluid in the clutch actuator lines needs to be replaced (Often overlooked as it is a separate circuit). I would advise you to perform this as it is ...


2

It is most likely the master cylinder that needs to be replaced. The brake fluid is either leaking out or by-passing the piston. When you pump the pedal, the clutch will dis-engage but then the pressure from the clutch will force the fluid past the master cylinder piston and the clutch will engage with the pedal held down if the master cylinder needs ...


2

What happens if you push down the clutch pedal then immediately shift into 3d or 4th gear? Because the 3d and 4th gear synchronizers are much less likely to be worn, grinding then suggests a clutch operation problem, like air in the clutch hydraulic system, or a failed clutch slave cylinder. Smooth gear engagement in 3d or 4th, on the other hand, suggests ...


2

Sometimes there is confusion between pedal free play and free pedal travel. The pedal free play for your civic should be 1 to 3 mm. This is to assure that the pedal is not putting pressure on the master cylinder. The pedal free travel is the distance the pedal must go down before the throwout bearing touches the clutch release toungues. This is to allow the ...


2

Yes this is true. If the fluid gets low enough, it will reintroduce air into the system which defeats the purpose of what you are trying to do in the first place. There are two ways to do ensure this doesn't happen. Have someone watching the reservoir during the procedure and have them refill it as needed. You can get a bleeding kit, which has what I'll ...


2

At that temperature I would be more concerned about the viscosity of the grease in the clutch disc splines, rather than the brake "hydraulic" fluid. Maintenance of this fluid is cheap and easy, however, and makes a great starting point to either confirm or eliminate that part of the clutch system as a culprit. Re-greasing input shaft splines is quite a bit ...


1

There is a break in period for a new clutch. This equates to about 500 miles of city driving. It has to be city driving because you're not actually doing what the clutch needs to have happen if you are driving down the highway. Once the clutch is thoroughly broken in, you should notice the engagement to be better. The only way this might not happen is if the ...


1

If you are topping up the hydraulics with water, you should drain it immediately, flush with hydraulic fluid, refill and bleed. 1a. Air can seep in past the cylinder seals in small amounts, which builds up over time. The more aged the seals become, the more air seeps in. So the seals need replacing at some time, although it is safer to replace the complete ...


1

Should the clutch pedal not return to normal (up) position from the spring resistance in the master? If it has been correctly bled, it should return on its own. If you didn't bench bleed, it may not be able to draw enough fluid to get started on its own. In that case, not returning is normal. Based on your "air mixed in," comment, it either hasn'...


1

Sadly, the only thing I think of (and had it before - different car though) is that the clutch center plate is sticking on the input shaft splines and thus being held against either one of the friction faces... Or the center plate is stuck to the flywheel face... but that can be freed... One other thing to check is that the slave cylinder is giving the ...


1

You say the clutch is out. But have you replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing ? If you lost the fluid its gotta have a leak or had one bad air bubble. Make sure it's bled correctly.


1

After replacing the hydraulic lines as well as the master and slave cylinders, everything is working great. I confirmed the master cylinder was at least one of the problems. Testing it outside of the vehicle, the entire stroke of the cylinder couldn't move fluid at all. So yes, a hydraulic cylinder can go bad without having any external leakage. The ...


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