6

CAN-C is the high speed bus that connects the engine, brakes, airbags etc. CAN-IHS is a low speed bus that connects the comfort systems like radio and climate controls.


5

You need either a digital storage oscilloscope or a noid light to test signal from the PCM to the injectors. If you don't have a DSO you will also need a multi-meter. You want to disconnect an injector, check the connector for fit and check the pins for corrosion etc... Injectors have 2 wires. Shared power and PCM ground. Power will always be the same ...


5

If we're ruling out the possibility of a leak in the system and you're still not getting cold air then it's probably due to normal wear/age. The refrigerant system is supposed to be a sealed system, but this is rarely perfect. If the AC system has never been serviced or it's been many years (6+) since it has been you could be just experiencing normal ...


5

There is one other thing that can cause what you are describing. There is either a pilot bearing or a pilot bushing that supports the input shaft of the transmission. I don't know which, but if it is a bushing, it would make sense based on your description. If the borrowers slipped the clutch quite a bit and were in a position to use the clutch a lot, ...


5

Is it possible to bleed the clutch hydraulics? (I don't remember if the Jeep has that option off the top of my head.) If so, this is where I'd look first. If not, I believe you need to replace them. It seems as though the clutch is not quite letting go when you depress the pedal. The five seconds gives it enough time to spin down. The fact that you can drive ...


4

Just to post the OP's answer to get this closed out: "I just got a new battery a few months ago took the jeep up to napa they tested it n its a bad alternator."


4

I believe the key clue here is the fact the engine runs rough for a few minutes. This tells me that the cold-start enrichment, where the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is slightly rich, isn't taking place. You may be looking at partially clogged injectors causing this. The reason I think this is the cause is that you've ruled out fuel rail ...


4

The problem is the system is low on refrigerant. Since the clutch engages, there is enough refrigerant in the system (pressure) for the clutch to engage. If there wasn't enough in the system, it wouldn't even do that. If the system were where it is supposed to be, the compressor would kick on/off constantly once the system has been run for a little while. ...


3

With the moderate amount of lift you've described (1" to 1.5"), you shouldn't need a to drop your transfer case. Dropping the transfer case is done to straighten the angles on the front and rear drive shafts. In your case, consider the length of the drive shafts and the amount of lift. I don't know the dimensions of the XJ, but consider the length of the ...


3

This may sound strange but try preforming an induction service. There is a condition that can sometimes occur where excessive carbon builds up on the intake valves. When carbon is cold it is porous and can absorb gasoline keeping it from getting into the cylinders. Eventually the carbon becomes saturated and fuel enters the cylinders. When the carbon gets ...


3

This could be any number of things, a bad injector, broken wire, or a loose or corroded connector. I'd start by checking the connections to all the injectors. Make sure there's no crud in the connector and that it's making good contact. You didn't mention whether there are any other symptoms beyond the error code.


2

Check the fuel pressure after several hours of sitting, like in the morning before you start it or turn the key over. This could be a case of an injector leaking into a cylinder, causing a flooded effect. You could leave the pressure gauge on it over night to check in the morning. The pressure should hold most if not all of the pressure, even for that amount ...


2

As @HandyHowie suggests in his comment, this appears to be a simple connection issue which is only part time. You have disconnected/reconnected at the battery, but I'll bet your problems lie at the other end of these cables ... most likely on the ground side, but you'll be better off pulling it off of both ends (positive and negative) to ensure you have a ...


2

The Shrader valve is the definitive seal. The cap is there to keep dirt & crud out of the Shrader valve. The plastic threads on those caps aren't enough to hold more than a few pounds of pressure, and there's no way to get Teflon plumber's tape on those threads. So... you might replace the Shrader valve, or at least reseat it (that often does the job - ...


2

I would go ahead and replace both the valve and the o-ring. Also, you most likely have the R134a, as this has become the standard for automobile Acs for the time being. As far as getting the right parts? Try calling Jeep, and getting some part numbers. When you get down to specific small items like these, I doubt aftermarket parts are available. Once ...


2

It sounds to me the steering gearbox is having an issue. If the valve which controls which way the fluid is flowing to provide the assist is sticking when you first turn right, then it may be hard to turn the wheel. Once you've turned it for the first time it might then become unstuck, allowing things to operate normally. With turning off the highway and ...


2

It could be that your engine has hydraulic lash adjusters for the valves. These remove the need for valve clearance adjustments as they work on oil pressure. The trouble is that they have very small inlet/outlet holes to admit oil, and often get clogged up, restricting the flow of thick, cold oil at engine start and causing the tapping noise. When the oil is ...


2

Interesting That vehicle has fuel injection via the throttle body. It sounds like the engine is getting flooded, just like you said. With IF (fuel injection) flooding has mostly become a thing of the past. Since this vehicle may not have any interface to it's very rudimentary computer it can be hard to get diagnostic information out of it. The fact you ...


1

My hunch is that your battery is not charging, and you're probably running the battery all the way down, which would explain why it runs ok for a short period of time after you jump it. Have you checked your fuses? there is usually a 'charge fuse' for the voltage regulator. I would look at that first. The next item would be the regulator. Go over the ...


1

According to this website you can use: Power Steering Fluid +4 (If unavailable ATF+4 is Acceptable) Searching through things, it's the Grand Cherokee which requires the different power steering fluid and cannot use the ATF+4. This is due to it being an electric pump and supplying pressure to the cooling fan (or some such). The fluid used in the GC has ...


1

Fuses are there to protect from runaway electrical currents that can damage components or start a fire, if you have a fuse repeatedly blowing then there's a short in your electrical system. A wire has gotten stripped and is touching ground (your car's frame is ground) or a component has failed internally and is allowing a run-away current. If the fuse ...


1

Here are the diagrams for the base sound system, colors are the same for Premium Sound.


1

By using this fuel injector calculator, your new injectors are flowing 24.2 lb/hr @ 49psi, which is a bit more than stock (by 1.0 lb/hr). This could definitely be why you're seeing LTFT levels being pulled by over 10%. 10% is the nominal maximum you want to run your fuel system (whether + or -). Realistically this is borderline maximum of where you would ...


1

Knocking sounds reflect worn out parts, which had got so much tolerance than oil can't fill the gap any longer. It could also be the oil itself, being to thin or too old (and got thinner). If the noise is only in the bottom then it could be the bearings in the crankshaft, or the displacement bush also in the crankshaft at the extremes of it. However a "...


1

For the TPS codes, it's probably a ground issue. Check for ground on the orange/dark blue wire. If you have ground on that wire disconnect and examine the connector for damage or a pin that's come loose. If you don't have ground you're going to have to examine the wiring harness especially around the rear of the valve cover. There is a splice in the ...


1

I apologize in advance but this is going to be somewhat of an answer with a question to the original poster. (Hopefully he sees this!) I have, to a T, the exact issues the original poster describes on a 2003 Wrangler TJ which clutch and transmission wise is very similar to a 1998 Cherokee. I had a brand new clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, pressure ...


1

I agree with the pilot bushing/bearing answer. It isn't seized or it wouldn't allow shifting after a few seconds. More likely it is dragging due to poor lubrication (thickened grease as above). As to the hydraulics... I can't recall if the slave cylinder is exposed on your vehicle (the majority are), but if so you can check. With the engine OFF, have someone ...


1

Important Caveat: Seeking information for future reference is admirable but it sounds like your wife's car now has at least one non-functional brake. You may be in a position where professional technical help is advisable. Back to your question: Your terms and the picture don't quite match. Are you talking about the "Holddown pins" in the picture? If so,...


1

The easiest way to figure this out is to go down to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer's parts shop and have them look it up for you. Describe them exactly what you are looking for and they will have a computer screen to match the part for you. I wouldn't buy the part there, because the "stealership" will charge you an exorbitant amount of money for each bolt (...


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