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33

The 15V is not a real reading. It's an artifact of bubbles formed on the plates from overcharging, which have by themselves an anode and a cathode. This creates a false" voltage potential that really isn't there. (Well, technically it's there, but the bubbles are acting as tiny cells in series, but have no actual stored potential. A high impedance DVOM ...


8

It appears there are two pumps which it could actually be. One each for the left and right sides of the vehicle. The part numbers I can find are: Right side: Spectra Premium - SP7050M Bosch - 67774 Left side: Mopar - RL161808AE Spectra Premium - SP7051M These are for the SRT8 6.1L Hemi. These models are for exact fit with housing. You can get a cheaper ...


3

I take it that the "car battery charger" you mention in your post is an old-school type, which does not have any built-in charge regulation? If it's taken your battery up to 15 volts, and it's a modern, regulated charger, it appears to me to be faulty. After 8 hours, no self-respecting modern charger should still be charging at 15 volts. If it's old school,...


3

15vdc is borderline too high. First of all, unplug the charger if you haven't done so already. Next, check to see if there are any visible signs of a boil over. Be careful if there is, because this is acid which can burn you. Next, probe the battery at the terminals with your multimeter to see what the voltage is reading. If it reads somewhere in the mid ...


3

Although I haven't done one of these in particular (but a bunch of the little pink shift interlock levers; darn Mopar), here is my suggestion: Your glovebox latch assembly is broken. Busticated. You are going to have to buy a new one. (Or better yet, "Let me know Monday morning when you've bought my new latch, Brother...") Not to worry -- less than $...


3

The link says it's a lead acid battery chemistry being used in that device. That type of chemistry does very poorly when sitting around idle. Periodic charges after each use and on a schedule thereafter will enable it to remain as healthy as possible, but even then, there's a life span of three to five years. You should be able to purchase a replacement 17 ...


3

Nothing happened to the battery. If your trickle charger doesn't have short circuit protection, it may be destroyed now. However, the battery is unaffected. Try to test if your charger works by charging with it normally, by putting positive to positive and negative to negative.


3

Your 2nd picture (fuses under dashboard) is where the radio fuse is located. If you look at your picture, you can see the fuses in the top left (those little plastic things with numbers on them). The blue label in your picture says the radio fuse is the 5th one from the end in the middle row and has the number 15 on it. Most cars have a little plastic tool ...


2

It all depends on the amount of bubbles which are occurring. If there is a large amount with steam involved, I'd be worries about it. If it's just a small amount of bubbles and nothing adverse happening, I think I'd be less likely to be worried about it. This could be just a normal thing. On the other hand, it could be that the radiator cap is becoming ...


2

This is a roots style supercharger. Unlike the turbocharger you mention, the supercharger (or "blower") is driven directly by the crankshaft of the engine, via a large belt. Turbos use the exhaust gases to perform the same task. The task at hand is to force more air into the engine than the engine could normally suck in on its own. By doing this, it makes ...


2

The 13 is irrelevant here! Watch the voltage when you crank over-it will drop This figure should not be less than around 10v -if it is, then the battery has no amp power to start the car and is defective, even if new


1

Most of these use sealed lead acid batteries. Unless its the small ones the size of a couple of smartphones put together. The symptoms your describing sounds like the battery is no good and it does happen to these units a lot when they are hooked up in reverse or not maintained properly. I use them daily for my work and often need to replace them every ...


1

It looks different from my charger. But No, there is no way these chargers damage your battery, as they are in fact not chargers. The actual charger is on-board of the car. These ‘chargers’ are more safety devices that inform the onboard charger of the status and max current to draw via the CP pin. In some cases they do a few more checks. When all is OK it ...


1

As the_storyteller said in their comment doing this removes any catalytic converters in the replaced sections of exhaust (that's pretty much part of the definition of a "straight" pipe - it's a straight through flow!) In the majority of locales this will lead to the car flat out failing any emissions tests, and there may be additional tests as well - in the ...


1

Yes, it is ruined. Lead acid batteries do self-discharge and get ruined if stored for long periods of time at empty state of charge. Not only that but they are heavy for the amount of capacity they have. Next time, buy a lithium ion jump start battery. It will have a lower rate of self discharge and doesn't get damaged if left empty. It costs a bit more $$$,...


1

Changing out the camshaft position sensor is really straight forward on the 2.7l V6 Chrysler engine. It really is an R&R procedure. You'll need the sensor, a 13mm wrench (or socket/ratch if it will fit), a torque wrench (if you like), and possibly a flat tip screwdriver. Other than battery disconnect, is there anything that should be done for the ...


1

First be aware that actual tire size can vary by brand and use. An off road tire will be a different dimension from road performance or rain tire. Identical tires dimensions, can be different if mounted on a wider or narrower wheel. On line research shows some basic guidelines. A 235/55/17 is listed as having a 27.2 inch diameter by 9.3inch wide footprint. A ...


1

When you have Mag wheels I believe you have to re-torque them every couple of months or so. If I remember correctly it has to do with the different rates of expansion and contraction between the magnesium alloy wheels and the steel bolts and over time they work themselves loose.


1

The problem was that both front wheel bolts weren't strongly tightened. That's all... Somehow they lose the tightness


1

I'd try swapping the wheel around for another one to see if the noise is still there. The noise could be where the wheel is moving slightly as it contacts the disk, in which case a slight dab of grease between wheel and disk may help. Another possibility if its not the suspension or a CV joint etc is that the rim is cracked. Again swapping the wheel for ...


1

The popping could be from a ball joint or a tierod end. Both of these items are a serious safety concern. If either fails completely you will loose control of the car. Any noise or looseness in the front of the car should be investigated immediately.


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