Hot answers tagged

9

The connector will need to be replaced. It looks to be fused together. The metal connector terminals were the cause of the original problem. The usual problem is that the connector makes poor contact due to loose fit in the female terminals this causes resistance and therefore heating of the connectors.


6

Dont you have to remove the connector with the green/black wire also? In your photo it looks like the connectors are melted together. You can get a knife and try to seperate them first. The blue wires goes to your blower speed setting switch on dash. The green/black wire goes to the blower. Even if you remove the connector. The old connector may not fit to ...


6

I found a copy of the owner's manual here. Pages 284-285 have a diagram of the instrument cluster, where this light appears as #17. Page 294 says that this is the Vehicle Security Light and explains: This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and then will flash slowly until the ...


5

As stated, this is most likely a slipping serpentine belt, but there could be other reasons besides moisture on the belt causing this problem. This is especially true if this is happening every day. The problem can also be caused from a weak tensioner pulley (the part which keeps the belt tight). I know this is unlikely, considering it's a new vehicle, but ...


4

There are two things I can think of for you: First - Are you sure you changed the plug/wire for the #4 cylinder? I know this sounds elementary, but you never know. When you pulled the plug out, did it look wet, or tan as it should? If it was wet, you've changed the right plug. If not, you probably want the middle cylinder (assuming a v6 engine) on the other ...


3

I have had this problem with several vehicles in my time...it was the soft rubber flexible lines that went bad, it allows fluid to the calipers but because of denigration wont allow it to go back when you release the brakes, the lines between the caliper and hard line are the soft brake hoses. My son just had the same problem he replaced all that you have ...


3

This sound similar to what I have experienced when there is rust or other "crud" in the bottom of the gas tank. Letting it get VERY low then filling it will stir up the "crud" and allow it to temporarily clog things up until it settles back down. To confirm if this is whats happening, try filling up before the fuel level drops below half a tank. Do that a ...


3

While Josh is right they don't usually need to be replaced together, the TPMS is integral with the valve stem. To fix the valve stem may require replacement, which would mean the TPMS would need to be replaced. There are TPMS renewal kits (includes battery, seals, & valve core) which could possibly be used to repair the TPMS, however it may/may not work ...


2

I would check the fuel pump actually. It might be getting too hot, causing it to not put out the proper pressure. The only way to test this (that I'm aware of) is while it's running. You'd have to put a pressure gauge on it (at the rail) and check the fuel pressure while running. You'd then need to leave the gauge in place, somewhere you can see it while ...


2

It sounds like maybe a bad passenger zone actuator in the HVAC controls causing the issue up front. As for the rear, that could be another actuator. I think there is a separate evaporator for the rear, it could have a clogged expansion valve or a leak. If it's leaking, you should lose the front A/C fairly soon. I don't think the seat wiring has anything to ...


2

Looks like something cut your cam sensor wires. The sensor is right under the connector you found, you probibly need to replace it or try to reconnect it, might be hard the wires are so short. You get no spark if that cam sensor is not connected. Larry


2

My Ride: Dodge 2002 Grand Caravan Sport I just fixed this problem on my car. Take off the FCM (Front Control Module) This is the metal box directly in front of the fuse center, next to the battery. You'll have to take off the cover of the fuse box. The FCM is held in by four torx screws. Clean the flat metal terminals by sanding them. Give them each ...


2

We can still read the code without a code reader with a key dance. Some people said the e-brake must be on in order to do this but the main problem in my case was about the key dance itself. Basically, there's 4 ignition key positions: Off Accessories Run Start When I was doing the key dance, I was doing it between position 1 and 3. However, I just ...


2

The first thing you need to figure out is the check engine light code. You'll need to hook up your OBD2 scanner and get the code it'll be most likely a code like "Pxxx". Once you get that you can begin diagnosis. We also need to have the year make and model of your vehicle to give a good over the internet idea of what's going on. You can goto your local ...


2

Switched a couple fuses. And it started. Battery is new and charged. Was able to get the van to auto zone and have it tested. It is the alternator! Thanks everyone 😊


2

Since there is no spark on 2 cylinders that share the same coil, 3 and 6, it is time to check for signal from the pcm, coil driver circuit at the coil. If it is there, inspect the connector pins for connection integrity. If it isn't there, then check for signal again at the PCM. If it's at the PCM, find the open in that circuit or run a new wire. If it ...


2

When the tank is going to be completely filled the proper procedure is to allow the pump to shut off automatically. Add no more fuel after this initial shut off. Over filling the tank by filling to "the brim" can cause the evaporative emissions system to be damaged or rendered inoperative. The system is designed to control and process fuel vapor not liquid ...


2

Either you have the stow 'n go feature or you don't, and I can see that you don't. Not all Dodge/Chrysler vans have this premium feature. You really can't just change the seats because the whole floor system is different. Sorry there is no "fix" for this. Generally, if you have a 2nd row bench seat, then you don't have this feature. Though it's possible you ...


2

Generally no, the sensors do not need replaced with the tyres. The sensors battery could have run out while it was at the shop but it is unlikely. Often there is a reset procedure but that varies from vehicle to vehicle. I hope you get it resolved.


1

As you use the term flexplate, I assume that it is an automatic. If the flexplate can turn independantly of the engine then the bolts fixing it have broken or come out or the centre has sheared.


1

Depends on what you mean by "muffler". If you mean the last part of the exhaust, behind the transmission and everything than it's probably just a coincidence. But, if it happened to fall off and take the oxygen sensor, or the path upstream of the oxygen sensor with it you will have problems. It could also have leaked hot exhaust gases on the transmission, ...


1

Please realize a water pump doesn't usually go out spectacularly (all at once). Usually, the pump will have issues which exhibit themselves over time (usually leaks). While your vehicle's water pump may need replacement, more than likely it didn't completely quit working. If there was engine damage, you most likely would have seen other things going on, such ...


1

It wouldn't be hot if coolant wasn't running through it. So the question is: Is enough coolant flowing? That would be a water pump issue. Or, are the radiator fans not doing a good enough job. That would be a fan or fan relay problem. See this article on Chrysler fan relays


1

Doesn't sound like a belt The sounds in the video you posted don't sound like a squealing belt. If your researched has revealed concerns regarding the vehicle I suggest you abandon your desire to own it. The low hum that seems to change frequency without the car changing in speed is concerning. It makes me think transmission but there is too little ...


1

As per OP's comment, the issue was a failed brake switch: As suggested I took it to the dealer. The break [sic] switch failed. Thanks for the suggestions and insights.


1

Sounds like a bad ECM (engine control module, AKA the computer). Its a common issue with your vehicle. Edit: A bad ECM will throw inconsistent error codes. Have a mechanic test with another ECM before you set off and replace other items.


1

Did this and it still didn't work. BUT then I tried rotating the IPM and cleaning all the contacts on C1 (green) and C6 ("yellow") connectors seemed to do the trick. Not sure which one did it, but they're now both on! Thanks!


1

It sounds as though your transmission is slipping or allowing the engine to rev. Once the transmission catches back up, it slams back into gear causing the jerk you are suggesting. This could easily be caused by a lack of (or low) transmission fluid.


1

Try checking your fan belt. It could be coming apart and only making noise when you get up to certain speed


1

It could be that it's just getting worn out. Something you can check is to see if the exhaust is leaking around the manifolds ... look for black suet on the heads right at the exhaust manifolds. New manifold gaskets will fix this if it's actually the issue. This problem can actually affect the gas mileage as you will be sucking in oxygen at the leaks which ...


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