I think there might be a regulatory component that effects stated brightness
I found in CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) 49
The maximum wattage at 12.8 volts (design voltage): 65 watts on upper beam, and 55 watts on lower beam.
BUT...there are some caveats to this related to headlamp type and additional components to the commercial regulations which ...
Refers to tubular glass, 10 mm diameter, according to this forum post.
The W5W defines the bulb "category", which is the standardized filament lamp design, as explained in ECE Regulation 37.
There is no explicit mention of the first "W" referring to "Wedge", but all bulb categories that start with a "W" share the same wedge-style base in the ...
I appears you need a G3.5 or G3 1/2 bulb with a bayonet base. It is also referred to as a mini indicator bulb. Looking on amazon, there are still some companies that make them.
If you want to go to the parts store (or radio shack) and look, your specs are:
~3/8" diameter base
10 pack on amazon:
Yeah that should be fine - the W5W part of the code you've got indicates that it's what I (in the UK) would know as a "501" bulb and that's the right type for an 850 and if you look at the pics for the Sylvania longlife bulb from the link you gave you can see the W5W code printed on the bulb.
No. Not possible. A dead bulb is just that ... dead. There is no continuity to light the bulb, therefore there's no continuity to drain the battery. Instead, I'd look at the battery itself. It's 5 years old, which is the (arguable) normal lifespan of a good battery. I'd bet if you had it load tested, you'll find it needs to be replaced.
Well, a car headlight will have a certain amount of lumens produced but that's not what you see. What you actually see its the brightness of that light (lux) which basically is the intensity of light relative to the projected area from a surface. Its a bit weird to explain because even if you read the classic definitions they all seem the same thing. To put ...
Check the fuse. If it still good, you will have to check to make sure it has a good ground and that no wires are broken.
Without a multimeter and schematics, its going to be harder to find your issue. By basic tester, do you mean test light?
If you look at a H4 bulb, it has two filaments, the one next to a small metal mirror being for low beams.
They share a common terminal for ground, but have individual ones for 12V.
This means each filament fails individually, without affecting the other one.
Of course, when the glass breaks, both filaments fail.
And there are other failure modes not ...
It means there are two filaments in the bulb, both rated at 35W. Presumably, dipped beam uses one of them and full beam uses both together.
If you upgrade from 35/35 to 45/40, the headlight is taking 85W on full beam instead of 70W, compared with the alternator rating of 130W.
We can't be sure if that will overload your alternator since we don't know the ...
I have a 2007 Lotus Elise.
"Pre" 07, Lotus used H7.
07 and later, Lotus went to H7U.
The U is ultraviolet "filtered."
Previous poster (commenter) is wrong.
The cheaper (and older) H7, put out tremendous ultraviolet light, damaging the headlight covers, degrading their clarity over time.
Just do a Google search "2007 Lotus Elise headlight replacement" and ...
Have you performed any measurements? I see four reasons for dim lamps:
Age -- As the filament wears, its hot resistance increases and the light output drops. This is a real and measurable behavior. If you replaced them, then you can check this off.
Low charging voltage -- Battery terminal voltage should be 13.8-14.5v or so depending on configuration. ...
I wouldn't assume the bulb is burnt out, I'd test it in another car or using a 9 volt battery unless you can visually verify it's blown. If it has indeed blown that fast then it could be a manufacturing defect, and I'd try another. If that blows too then you must have too much juice on the circuit, not enough to blow the fuse but enough to burn out a bulb, ...
If it is a 21W/5W bulb, then it has 2 filaments of different brightness.
The 5W filament is for the side/tail light for night driving.
The 21W filament is for bright illumination when you press the brake pedal.
Image copied from ToolStation
My thoughts were:
Use a vacuum suction to try and grab it
Get a double-sided tape on a wire and try to tape it out and grab it.
What I ended up using was a $9 19" flexible magnetic pick-up tool I got from a local Harbor Freight (hardware store). At first I tried to pry out the bulb via the Daytime Driving Lights (DRL) bulb hole, but I kept ...
It will depend on whether your particular car has HID (Xenon) headlights - the reg checker on the Halfords site only operates in terms of broad strokes - pretty much just the barest info (year and top level model). It doesn't include things like options spec so it won't know whether you have the HIDs installed if they were optional on that year's model. ...
After some more research and long discussion with a guy at Autozone I found that mini bulbs basically come in two flavors: 5 watt and 3.5 watt. As long as you get the right wattage they are interchangeable.
So, for example, in my case the W5W9Q4, the "W5" means it is a 5 watt bulb, so I can use a 5W mini bulb. I used a 2821 Sylvania mini bulb which looks ...
There are few issues with this. First was to replace just one side with LED. You will either to replace one side with incandescent bulb or follow through with LED conversion.
If you want to go the LED route, you will need to replace both sides and then alter the coding in the car using something like rosteck vagcom or OBD11 (not sure if supports mk5). ...
As the ratings of the new bulbs appear to be the same from what you state, then go ahead and fit them.
If the bulbs needed higher current then changing the supply would be necessary - checking relays, fuses etc
The life span of an incandescent light bulb is up to 50 times smaller than the one of an LED (in reality you can expect up to 1500-2000 hours out of an incandescent light bulb, but usually these numbers are highly overrated)
However, choosing an incandescent light bulb might be the consequence of the following:
Incandescent light bulbs tend to be really ...
Apparently in addition to the two strips there is a smaller strip just below the heater panel with a locking button on it. You can loosen that and lift it down to release the heater panel.
This link appears to have more detail on the procedure.
Your third picture shows a black plastic adapter that you identify as missing from the one side.
And I assume your able to use the lamp and adapter from the side it was install in on the other side.
If so then you should find that the part missing Mazda 3 headlight bulb retainer can be found as new old stock Dorman part number WX-6255671.
The issue you ...
I'm roughly guessing this is an H7 bulb for low beam. I prefer Osram/Sylvania, but obviously there are others.
BMW are the mostest analist of the bunch (I used to work for BMW NA), so there are quite the variety of variations of bulbs that may be suitable. North American vehicles are limited in wattage by law, but Euro spec bulbs may have much higher ...
Keeping your headlights clean seems like a better investment. Even a thin layer of dirt (salt spray seems particularly bad) both blocks light and scatters it away from the road (possibly into other drivers' eyes). If you don't wipe the crud off your headlights you're wasting your money of the bulbs.
To give an idea of how quickly it builds up: I've got ...