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Thank you for that. We had a rethink and thought that might be the case. We will purchase a new one and give it a go.


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I would start with the master cylinder. On older or high mileage vehicles the master cylinder bore will develop wear. The wear only occurs in the area of the normal piston stroke. In the process of bleeding the brakes you pushed the seals past what had been the normal stroke. It likely ruined the seals and you are either sucking air in when the pedal returns ...


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On many brake systems you need to push the pedal down and close the bleeder valve before you let the brake pedal return,this is to avoid sucking air back into the system. An other alternative is to use a brake bleeder with a return valve,this do only let brake fluid and air pass in one direction. For the first solution you need to be two people one in the ...


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A typical brake assembly has a single or double piston on one side, when the brake pedal is depressed the piston pushes the pad into the rotor, and pushes the assembly, including the caliper, in the opposite direction. The caliper slides on pins, allowing even force to be applied on both sides of the rotor. It sounds like the caliper seized, keeping the ...


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After bringing it back to the mechanic, here's what was concluded: 1) Old rotors didn't cause knocking. 2) New rotors caused knocking. We suspect a defect in one of the rear rotors (Raybestos Coated) 3) Mechanic installed their own rotors, which solved the problem. It looks like the I actually had a defective rotor causing this issue. But don't forget to ...


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The same happened to me. Turned out to be a bad alternator. My alternator was generating 19v. Abs module is a complex system including a motor. When it sense overvolts, it shuts it down itself tl prevent further damage.


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The most common thing is a warped rotor. Even though it's new doesn't mean it's not warped. Sometimes an inferior quality rotor can be warped out of the box. Rotors can also become warped quickly by sticking calipers and\or slides or bad brake hoses. These can cause the rotors to overheat and warp in short order. If hub is excessively dirty it can also cause ...


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That should not cause any damage. Driving several miles at 60mph will cause damage though - seen the effects : blue discs and lots of smoke (luckily it was not me :) )


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I'm going to guess that he said and you misunderstood or he mispoke and the correct term is "tuner amplifier". Many vehicles have a separate module from the "head unit" in the dash that has the actual audio electronics in it. I suspect this may be where they are looking


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