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The photos I see on the internet show that your calliper has a piston on only one side. If the piston is free, then it is more likely that the fault is a seized slider mechanism that centres the calliper on the disc/rotor. The frame the calliper bolts to has 2 metal sliding pins inside rubber dust covers. You should be able to move these metal pins freely ...


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A brake caliper piston can possibly sieze at certain times and places where the cylinder may be corroded even if the piston manually pushes back. But usually if you don't have to use much force with the tool to push it back then the caliper may be good. A common problem that causes your symptoms is a bad rubber brake hose. Due to internal damage in the hose, ...


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Unable to add a comment due to low rep therefore responding through these means. If you are getting an issue at low speeds. May be worth a go, to try replicate the issue. Whereby the car being on a lift, get someone to spin your front wheels (if it's coming from that region) applying the brakes lightly to try and pin point where exactly the noise is coming ...


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Ideally as standard routine, when replacing brake pads, check that the cylinder body with the guide pins slides freely back and forth. You could also sometimes tell by uneven wear on the brake pads you are replacing visually. If this is not the case then you should clean the guide pins and re-grease them using suitable grease that won't damage the rubber ...


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Scott B is giving terrible advise and I seriously doubt he is an engineer for GM, as an engineer would realise that forcing contaminant-laden fluid back into the master cylinder is not a good thing. Master cylinders require clean fluid in order to provide the fluid pressure necessary for proper braking. I'm also doubting that a Valedictorian would call a &...


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The problem can easily get fixed by checking the spring from the hand brake that goes to your rear wheel. Adding a lubricant or wd40 and making sure the hand brake spring gets released will take care of it.


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