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I'd look at where the brake pedal connects to the booster. The rod that connects to the brake pedal has a spring in the middle where the cover is. Use a flashlight and you'll see what I'm talking about. If you spray some WD-40 on the spring and rod it will free it up and allow it to move freely again. I had the exact same problem on a 2006 Jetta. Hope it ...


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If you have no air in the system, and if your master cylinder is functioning properly, there is a possibility that the parking brakes are misadjusted or not functioning properly causing too much brake pedal movement before shoes make sufficient contact with the drums.


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I don't know the year, make, model or brake system type. But if you have air in the antilock system you could try bleeding the pump. This requires a scan tool with that capability. If you don't have access to a scan tool , you could try bench bleed and hope it works. It seems like you are bleeding correctly, so if there are no leaks, it is most likely the ...


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Yes you need to pull your master cylinder(MC) and bench bleed it. Air in your brake lines can be removed by a normal bleed of pushing the brake pad and keeping the MC filled above the min line. But once air gets in the MC it cant get out of the MC by that push on the brake pad method. You need to find the workshop manual for your specific car for ...


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It's quite possible that if you've let it get too low, air has got back into the system - in which case I think the only option is to start again...


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What does "no brakes" mean - no braking power at all? Less than what you had before R&R? Same as what you had before R&R? When a brake line is replaced and a section of brake system is thus completely dry, when you start to bleed the brakes, initially the pedal will offer barely any or no resistance as the fluid fills the empty space in the brake ...


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As well as the items mentioned in @Orb and @Chris answers, it's also worth checking the flexi hose to the brake for any signs of swelling - sometimes the rubber can perish and swell, causing the hose to behave like a one-way valve - as you press the pedal, there's enough pressure to force the fluid through to apply the brake, but when you release, the fluid ...


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Sounds like your pads sticking to me. The pad should slide in smoothly ideally they should be so annoyingly smooth so that they fall out if your are not careful. I have had stuck pin and stuck piston before, both resulted in extreme pad wear on one side of the pad, or the back pad in the caliper. I have also had stuck pad, mild uneven wear, noise. In my ...


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I would say that the line in the picture wasn't quite kinked.. However Its hard to tell via a picture if fluid flow would be restricted or not. The only way you'd be able to tell properly is if the brakes were working evenly on that axle. If I were you I'd just run another length, but If you're wanting/willing to leave it like that, you'll at least have to ...


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Likely a sticking caliper, if you're ok doing your own maintenance and comfortable with brakes.. Firstly just check your brake fluid level is ok and not too low (NO need to top it up!) we just don't want it to get too low during the next proceedure. If its at least half full that's fine for now. Pull one pad out from troublesome caliper and pump the brake a ...


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I figured it all out same issues all the way new this new that blah nlablah. Answer in the end to find out what was going on with out a stupid scan tool which is crap no need. To get pressure back compartmentalize fronts and rears. One at a time remove either front line BRAKE FEED from master TO ABS or rear feed line. Block one MASTER PORT at a time iwith ...


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Thanks for taking your time answering! I've investigated the switch itself and I was able to alter it's length by pulling it out a little further using a skrewdriver. The pedal is now pushing the button back in so it's working again! ;-)


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It is usually possible to adjust both... The pedal adjustment is to set it the same height as the clutch pedal - which needs adjusting depends on where the freeplay is. The switch is adjusted so the lights are off for the first 3mm or 1/8” of pedal travel so any bumps in the road don’t flash the brake lights.


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Find another shop. Any shop that would replace an ABS sensor and release the vehicle knowing that teeth were missing from the ring is a shop that doesn't know what they're doing.


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Your fitting will not produce that bubble flare in the brake line. You need a special flaring kit for that. A single flare won't work, has to be bubble flare. You can get them at any auto store. See the picture below. Take the original part into an auto store and get the right parts. You can't be drilling parts to make them fit.... these are your brakes ...


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