6

Prestone does make product that is compatible with DOT3 and DOT4 fluid referred to as DOT3/4. Several sites state you can use 4 in place of 3. However using 3 in place 4 may decrease brake performance. Without knowing the year it is hard to tell which is the most correct type of fluid for your Toyota. Regardless of the type used, that is the lesser of your ...


6

On the Expedition the hazard, lower brake lights, and turn signals all route through the multi-function switch. Gain access to the multi-function switch connector and back probe the light green wire while pressing the brakes. Does it have power? If it yes back probe the light green/orange and orange/light blue wires while pressing the brakes. Does it have ...


6

If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...


4

needle nose pliers, roll a corner back and walk it out with the pliers


3

I think that your left and center brake filaments have blown. The left and right bulbs will have 2 filaments, one for the tail (side) light and one for the brake light. Only the brake filament will have blow in the left one, so allowing the tail light to continue to work. When this brake filament broke, the body control unit (BCU) recognized it and lit ...


3

Look at the brake light switch, then look for the plastic stopper that the switch plunger contacts. If it is missing or broken the switch plunger does not get pushed in causing the lights stay on all the time. The most likely cause of this sort is failure of the brake switch stopper. An image of a typical broken stopper is seen here. broken brake stopper ...


3

Check the following: the bulb: it has two filaments one can work while the other has failed supply to the switch: if no supply check the fuse. check the switch goes live on the output when the brake is operated. does the socket get a supply when the brake is operated - if no and you have checked the switch then there is a break in the wire to be found.


3

I would first try needlenose pliers. If that doesn't work, a potato pushed into it is an old trick. Might I also suggest that you pull out another bulb first to discover exactly what method is needed -- do you push it in first, does it turn right like you expect, or does it go left?


3

If the "third" brake light is working the switch is okay. The bulbs have been changed, and I assume with the correct bulbs. Has there been any work done recently? Has a trailer hitch been installed? Often times the trailer people sever the wire going to the brake lights with a "scotch lock" which cuts the wire in two, although not immediately. Also you need ...


2

Shorts in this system are almost always in the rear of the vehicle. Remove all the brake bulbs, including the center light and inspect the sockets. Carefully inspect anywhere the wires move, like at the trunk lid hinge. Next look for any added trailer wiring connectors, if any disconnect them. After each part is disconnected retest. A short finder tool saves ...


2

Since the high mount light works it's not the switch. If the tail lights work. Check in the wiring harness in the left rear quarter panel along the frame. More than likely a splice/wire is rotted or broken. If they don't work. There should be a ground point for the two stop/tail lamps either on the left frame or the bumper. If that's OK trace the wiring ...


2

Brake lights are wired to work independently for safety reasons. If none of the lights are working, the first thing to do is check all the bulbs are good. No reason to start chasing wires if the bulbs are bad. If all the bulbs are good, check fuses. If fuses are good, use a multi-meter to check for power at the light socket. If no power, then check the ...


2

Take a look at the wiring diagram below. The important clue is you said the middle brake light isn't working. The CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Light) works only from closing the dedicated relay. This signal provides power to the lamp, and also instructs the engine and transmission control modules that you are braking. Unfortunately, this function is ...


1

After searching around I try to cut it open this weekend and the result was a complex circuit for my understanding. I'm post it here if someone is interested to see or explain how it works. So I ended up removing the whole circuit and creating a simple circuit with resistors and 2 diode the classic old way and hope that the LED want burn quickly.


1

Here is your brake light wiring diagram, might help you diagnose and answer some of your questions.


1

Did you check Fuse #8 in the dash fuse box? This is a different source of power than the turn/tail lamps. The diagram below should allow you to figure out where the problem lies. If Fuse #8 is okay, check for power at the new brake light switch with the brake depressed with a DVOM. One side always has power; the other side switches the power to the lamps ...


1

If the needle nose pliers don't work, then you need to resort to a small pair of side-cutters and cut the bulb casing turning it into a smaller radius as you go - eventually it will come free. Do make sure all circuits for lights are off - otherwise you get to replace fuses as well... Then you need to make sure the contacts and bulb-holder are clean, ...


1

Time for old wooden broom handle trick. Find old broom with screw in wooden handle. Unscrew handle from broom base. Shove the handle into old socket. Unscrew the old bulb base. I've done this many times.


1

I've seen this implemented in two ways, Citron have a system which engages the hazard warning flashers under heavy braking. I've also seen a BMW which illuminated it's rear fog lights under extreme braking; thus the brake lights became even stronger. Surely you'd set this at or almost at the maximum braking force the car could generate; i.e. if the maximum ...


1

If there's a black cover that you can see the speaker through, then I am assuming that you have the LED array for your lights. You'll have to go in through the back seat of the car and remove the plastic cover that sits partially behind the back seat and underneath the rear window. Inside of this cover are speakers and your high mount light assembly. The ...


1

I recently stumbled upon this video which shows that such a problem can be due to a low brake fluid level. I went to check that, and it was low, although right above the “Min” level line. I still went ahead and added more fluid. Lo and behold, it worked, at least so far. What is surprising to me is that the brake level is low rather than high, even ...


1

If it is just the brake lights that are not working, the the following could be faulty - Brake switch on the brake pedal - check that it is being actuated by the pedal properly. You cold also bypass the the switch by connecting the two terminals together and see if the lights then work. Fuse could be blow - find the fuse and check its condition. The ...


1

NOTE: While it doesn't help with your specific question, I also agree that you should talk to the police about the damages. My suspicion is that whoever was monkeying around with your wiring and electronics managed to cross several wires and blow some fuses. I would start with the fuse box unless you're certain that some of the wiring is damaged. If that'...


1

There have been cases on the LED's PCB loosing continuity. With the brake lamp removed and re-connected, with the ignition on and brake pedal pressed, try wiggling the LED's and connections to see if it will light up. Changes in temperature will cause the lamp assembly to expand and contract ever so slightly and show up as working and not working as you ...


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