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19

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


14

V belts are traditionally found in older motors, where you would have a series of those belts coming off the crankshaft, each to their own individual accessory group (alternator, a/c compressor, etc). See how the belts are staggered? Serpentine belts are much thicker by comparison and generally unify all accessories under one belt system.


14

Belt vs Chain in Motorcycles It's difficult to say which one is better. Depending on the application, one can be better or not in the particular role. High horsepower applications are not the place of belts and low maintenance is not the place for chains. Applications vary and one is not necessarily better than the other overall. The role of the final ...


13

Unless the compressor is on a belt by itself, you don't want to remove the belt. Water pumps, alternators and power steering are nice things to have. An A/C delete/bypass pulley for your application would be a way to go, but it will involve pulling the compressor. Probably the easiest thing to do is locate the appropriate relay and pull it. If it's the ...


10

Here are a few factors besides the ones already mentioned that don't work in the favor of chains: chains need lubrication. Do we really want another grease/oil in the engine bay? pulleys would have to be replaced with sprockets. If some debris finds its way in the engine bay and lodges itself in a sprocket you can look forward to broken teeth in case ...


9

V belts also derive their name from the cross-section of the belt itself. In the first photo above a V belt will ride in grooves on the pulleys. Serpentine belts don't have this same cross-section because as you can see in the 2nd photo both sides of the belt come in contact with various pulleys. Get ready for some awesome ASCII artwork of a V belt cross ...


8

Noise and Cost. It's really that simple. Chains used to be the most common device used for connecting the timing gears. Somewhere across the way someone told the consumer that cars shouldn't make noise and so the cheaper and less reliable belt was used by the manufactures. They did the same with direct drive (gear to gear) when they went to a fiber gear ...


8

So, bear with me on this and maybe I can help. Mind you, none of what I'm going to say is going to be easy to do, but that is because your issue is not an easy one to solve. The main problems I see here with any solution is alignment and distance from any mounting point I can discern. My main thought here is you need to get the alternator connected back to ...


8

In an alternator there are two major components; the stator and the rotor. The rotor has a coil wound on it. By applying a current to that coil a magnetic field is formed and then spinning the rotor electricity is excited in the stator. Because the rotor needs to spin while mainaining electrical contact for the coil slip rings are used. There are normally ...


7

Checking the run-out of the crankshaft is pretty straight forward. A dial indicator is temporarily mounted to a fixed point close to the crank. The indicator arm is set to touch the crankshaft. While turning the crankshaft by hand you will get a reading on the indicator of how many thousands of an inch the crankshaft is moving off of center. Your mechanic ...


7

Here are some reasons why some manufacturers use belts. Smoothness of the drive: The belt has the quality of putting down the torque of the engine much more smoothly and gradually than the chain counterpart, in a belt driven motorcycle you wont feel the sudden TUG when you twist the throttle.(This is the reason usually cruisers have this design and not the ...


6

It sounds to me like it was just worn out. You should be able to turn the alternator and a/c compressor pulleys by hand. I'd replace the tensioner if it hasn't been done already anyway, and with a new tensioner, fitting a new belt should be fairly easy* as you can fit it with the tensioner un-tensioned. However, if the auxiliary belt hasn't been changed ...


6

As the comment says, looking at the web site you posted there seems to be a couple of flavors of engine for your car. So unless we know the displacement (it would say 2.3L V6 for example) we can't say exactly for your car. There are 5 or 6 flavors listed for your car, from a 1.8L 4 cyl, to a 4.0L V8 ( would love to see how this is stuffed into a Passat lol). ...


6

Sounds exactly like worn brake pads to me. Have you checked those recently? Brake pads actually have a wear tab on them like the one pictured below. This is designed to make noise (that chirping sound) before the brake pads are catastrophically low. The noise would be present almost always while driving as the tab is meant to be in constant contact with the ...


5

I figured it out today. The spark plug in one of the cylinders blew out of the head while driving. The 'squeaking' was actually a whistling as air was pushed passed the spark plug.


5

That is way too much money for a serpentine belt and a tensioner pulley on any vehicle. If you cannot do this yourself, take it to a different mechanic and have them do it. A serpentine belt is not at all critical to the overall health of the engine. If it fails, you put a new one on. It may be inconvenient after it breaks, but it's not going to ruin ...


5

Try to get hold of a workshop manual; failing that, a Chiltons or Haynes manual for that car. I've just checked the Haynes, and it does show the Alternator replacement in some detail. A couple of major hints; firstly, you get much better access going in through the passenger wheel-well. Take the wheel off, and the plastic shield between the wheel-well and ...


5

Looking at the large bolt holding the alternator (closest in the picture), then I assume the alternator will pivot on that if you release the smaller bolt on the other side of the alternator - just visible with a piece of metal that has a slot in it. That looks to be how you adjust the tension of the belt.


4

Alternators aren't built for one engine so the manufacturer can't possibly know the gearing / ratio between the alternator and the engine. Therefore the RPM listed in the spec will be the RPM for the alternator. To calculate the alternators RPM you will need to find the diameter of the alternator pully [a] and the one connected to (presumably) the ...


4

According to this site (and another site I saw), the change interval for your Subie should be at 105k miles.


4

Quick googling reveals that drive belts may be damaged by oil leaks. Thus, I would change the drive belt instead of trying to clean it. Drive belts are cheap, but the trouble caused by a failed drive belt is very annoying. If the leak has been there for a long amount time, especially then I would heavily consider changing the drive belt instead of cleaning ...


4

belt tension I would imagine that the belt is not tightened enough with the tensioner pulley. When you turn on your heat on some cars the air conditioner pump button on the dash will default to on. My son's Hyundai does this. At that time when the pump engages, even though you have it set to heat, added tension is applied to the pulley that turns the air ...


4

Looking at the routing it may work with a shorter belt. But it may not have enough tension to drive the water pump without slipping. Dorman may make an A/C delete pulley/bracket. Which would keep the original belt routing and length.


4

Based off this diagram, the adjusting bolt is not present in the pictures you provided: It looks like your Sentra has air-conditioning, which means that your belt tensioning mechanism sits above the power steering pump (leftmost belt-driven component).


4

According to manufacturer Dayco (Why Belt Dressing Is Not a Solution To Quiet a Noisy Belt), it should not be used. In the past, simply covering a noisy serpentine belt in belt dressing would quiet that pesky belt. That’s when belts were made of neoprene. Today, you should never put belt dressing on an EPDM-made serpentine belt. Belt dressing, and ...


4

Good question. My answer is, probably not. With a caveat; it depends on the speed of the failure. Sometimes bearings will become excessively noisy before they fail. In this scenario the vehicle owner would notice the impending failure and hopefully do something about it. Chances are that either a torque sensor or a knock sensor on the waterpump could ...


4

The horrific squealing sound is your belt rubbing on on some pulley. Typically this means that either The belt is bad. The belt is loose. Some pulley has seized. If the belt is cracked or feels like its dried out then its probably time for a new belt. There's also a product called belt conditioner that you can spray on the belt. If this fixes the squealing ...


3

It's more than likely the serpentine belt at the alternator making the noise. One of two things going on here, either the belt itself is worn out, or the tensioner is not providing the preload to the belt to keep it tight. After the belt warms up a little bit, it sticks a little better so the sound goes away. If you haven't replaced the belt in a while, I'd ...


3

Your 'double wheel turning the belts' is called the crankshaft pulley. Some vehicles have a pulley assembled in two 'halves' and are bonded together to form the crankshaft pulley. In the bonded arrangement it now becomes a 'crankshaft engine damper'. If the bonding becomes detached to any extent the damper will allow and even cause engine vibrations, and ...


3

Cutting the belt will solve your problem as long as the belt doesn't drive any other component. If it's making noise all the time you likely only need to replace the pulley, which may be cost effective. Sometimes it cheaper to replace the the compressor/pulley/clutch combination.


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