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Battery tenders convert AC to DC electricity in order to charge the battery, this creates waste heat which needs to be vented to the environment, which is why there will be air holes or slits on the side or top of the tender. If you seal the tender or charger in an enclosure it will overheat and either break or a fail-safe mechanism will cut it off, this is ...


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A voltmeter can tell you part of the story. The second part is twofold. One is how much your battery can deliver in the cold. Cold cranking amps means worse case senerio. Two is how long that battery can deliver some amount of current over time. Usually both figures are published on the battery or someplace. One tends to be more important over the other ...


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Engines need to be cranked periodically to keep the fluids from setting up. Vehicles need to be driven also so the tires dont dry rot and the brake systems need to be cycled to to maintain its integrity. So i would say at a minimum crank the vehicle and let it run and cycle the brakes and roll foward and back even if its only a few feet.


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I know its a little late to post but just had this issue. I did a couple of things from this thread and still had nothing. Hooked a voltmeter to it and had 1.19vdc and had been on charge for 2 days. During the charge no lights would come on nothing except a very very dim yellow flash (no red or green light flash) So i connected it to my truck battery and ...


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Get a trickle charger. Easy to install, cheap to buy and to use, just need an electric outlet or very long extension cord. Any auto store or Target or Walmart normally have one.


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The battery in your car charges while your car is running through the alternator. If your car is sitting for a long period of time without charging (running), it is possible for the battery to drain enough so that you can't start your car. Try leaving the car running in park for 10 minutes every week, else your other option is to disconnect the battery if ...


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First, have the battery LOAD TESTED. What you have described is one of the symptoms of a failed battery. If that's not it, the next thing to check is a poor connection from the battery to one of its cables or a poor connection from one of those cables to their attached to your vehicle. Check those to ensure they are tight and corrosion free. It sounds to ...


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Looks like the green eye is leaking a tiny amount of electrolyte and the liquid layer on the battery collects dust. (Those green indicators are almost pointless, but they probably sell the batteries better.) The leak is minor and probably won't affect the battery performance. It is, however, probably enough to cause accelerated corrosion of the battery ...


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I left my car unused for 9 months and then put the dead battery on a good microprocessor controlled desulfating charger overnight and it was fine. Get a wheelbarrow and a good book. Dont charge car batteries indoors.


12

It looks to me as the battery has been boiled, meaning the alternator overcharged it. This has several implications: If the alternator overcharged it, then it will do so again. If this is the case, you need to have the alternator tested to ensure the internal regulator is fully functioning. Overcharging is as bad (or worse) than undercharging. You can do a ...


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All looks very dry. Remove, clean and put some grease or petroleum jelly on the terminals. Otherwise looks very dusty.


1

In short - is it the revs or simply the duration that is going to do the job? Will it charge 'better' at high revs or am I just wasting fuel for nothing? Mostly, for cars with a reasonable alternator, it's the duration. Although the alternator will produce more power at high revs, if you don't turn on all the electrical accessories, the power produced at ...


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4 is the only option, many times I have advised clients that a minimum of 10 or 15 minutes at around 2000 to 2500rpm is needed just to put the starting energy back into the battery and that is without having wipers, headlights rear window heater etc So you need to give it a good run once a week making sure that you minimise electrical use. If you can’t then ...


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When a Battery is disconnected from a running engine, there is a milliseconds high voltage spike that occurs the instant the terminal leaves the battery connector. Some researchers say it can be as much as 150v in your vehicles 12v circuitry. Remember that ECU operating voltage is 5v. A customer brought a car to me with all the lamps blown. I asked him what ...


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I used the advice on here for a similar issue. The (new) battery acid was sitting on the floor of the backseat for 2 weeks before I saw it. After doing research I thought it was going to eat through my carpet and metal of the floorboards. I quickly drenched it all in water and then covered it in baking soda 3 times (until it stopped reacting) and then ...


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One thing it could be, and I have had this happen a few times, is that the battery has an internal link failure that goes open circuit based on vibration / temperature or the stress level of the driver (much like the stress detector in photocopiers to produce a paper jam). Sometimes a solid thump on the top or side of the battery can get it to reconnect. ...


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