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I pulled the back off. Found the battery was not the issue. Back ground: Like most people I used it a couple of times. Didn't keep it charged. Then tried to charge it up and wouldn't take a charge. Symptoms: - No red LED charge indicator light unless I turned the lamp on. - If I turned off the lamp the LED light went out. And when turning the lamp on ...


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If the 18650 batteries are not being discharged, they will maintain their charge fairly readily. Doing what you are suggesting by ensuring they are fully charged at least once a month will maintain their health. Lithium Ion batteries do have an expected lifespan of two to three years or 300-500 charge cycles, whichever comes first. According to this document:...


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I have the same issue on one of them. Bought it charged it and used it twice, now i did charged it all night till full green light then used it then leave it for one or 2 weeks then try again for cell charging and goes back to yellow 2 bar low batt again? What is the issue????


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Use a volt meter to check the battery voltage when the engine is running and again when it is stopped. If the voltage is 13v or above when the engine is running, then the alternator is working fine. If the alternator appears to be working and the voltage is below 12v when the engine is stopped then your battery is likely dying. The easiest way to test the ...


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A solar panel that is rated 18v 5w will trickle charge your battery and keep it topped up,but only if the battery is less than 90AH if the battery is larger you need a larger solar panel. The solar panel will only suply 5wh for about 6hrs so about 30watts each day,If the solar panel is mounted inside your car it will get crazy hot and it might fail so if ...


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It sounds like you have a bad connection either at the battery or where the battery cables connect at the other end. What you are describing usually happens when the connection is not great and will disconnect after a bit. If you can jossel the connection and it causes the power to be good, then it is exhibiting a short. Pull the connections and clean them ...


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Have you checked battery voltage? It should be at least 12.2 volts. If not, you've got something draining the battery. Even with a jump on a completely dead battery, you still may not be able to start the engine. The dead battery is sucking all the juice from the jump


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At 40 AH capacity that means your 1.5A 15V charger will take 26 hours to provide a 40 AH charge to the battery. You could try hooking it up for 2-3 hours and see if you can get enough charge to start the engine. The 1.5A charge current is going to be nearly "trickle" charge level for an auto battery.


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If your engine turns over fast enough with the systems operational in a manner sufficient to start the engine, even if the engine is running only 10-30 seconds, and you've released the key from the start position, the battery/starter circuit is out of the picture. Your assumption is correct.


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This could be a cracked or broken battery cable as you suggest but it could be an internal break inside the battery. Seen similar symptoms where an internal cell link was loose.


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Bear in mind that a battery cap has a ventilation hole and you risk an explosion from a build-up in pressure, or the cork popping out and leaving the cell open. Not all batteries need to be vented but you should check. See if you can acquire a replacement cap from a dead battery at your local shop. If they are friendly they might say "just give the fitter ...


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As long as they are high-temperature dielectric silicon, not just generic white lithium you should be ok to apply and it would add an extra layer of protection. I'm not a big fan of using white lithium (usually what I find in spray cans) on electrical components. Examples of high-temperature dielectric silicon/grease https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/...


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Using silicone grease before you shrink the tube is not a problem,except the shrink tube might slide off easier. A better solution than using grease is probably to get shrink tube that has glue on the inside,i know it cost a bit more but after you have shrinked it on it will not go anywhere. It is this type https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Electrical-...


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You use grease on terminals to protect them from corrosion due to oxygen exposure, the shrink tubing will do the same job so there's no point putting grease inside. In fact, the grease is more likely to get squeezed into the wrong place and prevent a good seal, so my advice is not to use it.


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Yes... But you also run the risk of damaging the donor car’s alternator. So, the method I use is to connect the cables and then start the donor car and run at 2000rev/min for 5 to 10 minutes. This puts some charge into the other battery. Then turn off the donor engine and start the other car. People will say “but I have always run the engine on the donor ...


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If the engine's already running, disconnecting the battery will still keep the engine running. If you're trying to start a car without a battery or with a very dead battery, it won't start (even with push start in a manual car) because there's no electrical supply (spark) to the combustion chamber. The battery is a backup for extra electricity use in car (...


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If low voltage was the cause of any problems with the ABS then you would have active and/or stored DTC's in the abs module. It would likely trigger the ABS light and might also disable the abs completely while the code is active. Even then Im not sure how this could create any kind of "clunking" noise. Sounds just as likely as me telling you your tail light ...


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