New answers tagged

1

You've got a 'parasite' that's draining the battery and this needs to be checked out by a vehicle electrical specialist. If you are using a very high rated AH battery, (100AH rather then 60AH) for which your vehicle was not rated for, this will cause the alternator to 'overcharge' the battery as the high rated battery will take all and more power from the ...


3

Depends on the design of your jumper cables, but I would have tried or or rotate 90 degrees and go under that lip at the back Of course your black negative lead would be to a lifting lug directly on the stranded engine, and not the battery. Another option is a lug somewhere on the chassis or similar.


3

No, you will not be shorting the battery. The relay COIL, for a 12V relay, is designed so that when it's energized (i.e. connected between 12V and ground) will only pass enough current to close the relay contacts. Technically, the relay coil is generally a wire winding around a core material, usually laminated iron pieces. The coil presents both an ...


3

It sounds like you've installed the jumper cables directly, however, you need to let the donor vehicle charge your battery for a while before trying to actually start the vehicle. Most jumper cables do not have the ability to pass the amount of current needed to actually start the vehicle, but they do have the ability to assist in charging the battery so it ...


3

The 12v pin on the OBDII should be constant on regardless of the key position. Here is the pin out: You can test it with a multimeter to ensure it is this way in your vehicle. Whether it will work for trickle charging with a solar panel has yet to be seen, but always worth a go.


0

Really basic but if you havnt tried, turn off your front light & try starting. my 2010 model has a similar problem. If that didnt work Check out your starter switch wiring for exposed wires, then check the ground wire to make sure its connected properly & not damaged. Give it some throttle as you start. Failing all that lights off & give it a ...


1

The same happened to me. Turned out to be a bad alternator. My alternator was generating 19v. Abs module is a complex system including a motor. When it sense overvolts, it shuts it down itself tl prevent further damage.


0

Problem solved! (by my wife). It turns out (a fruitless trip to the repair shop [the battery and alternator are fine] followed by a further episode of non-starting) that the issue was that I had 2 keys: an original and a copy. Both mechanically turn the ignition lock, but with the copy the ignition fires and then dies after a few attempts after which it ...


1

The simple answer is "it depends" - on a number of factors, e.g. the condition of the battery and alternator - an old battery will hold less charge, and lose more overnight, a tired alternator won't charge as quickly. the ambient temperature - cold batteries don't work as well as warm ones, cold engines take more power to start, plus you use more power for ...


1

MINI thought this might be a problem so gave you a positive post up front to apply power to. To find it, pop the hood (bonnet) and look for it near the left side of the engine compartment near the cowl area (sort of under the overhang), by the strut tower. It should look like this: (Image taken from this video.) Whether charging your system or jumping it, ...


4

It's the fuel (as well as the battery). After 2 years, the fuel in the tank has almost certainly gone bad. It's most probably also gummed up your fuel injectors. Try spraying some starter fluid down the air intake to see if you can get it to run a little while. If it does, but immediately dies once the starter fluid evaporates, you need new gasoline.


2

I keep thinking why was the starter motor "changed a few times"; That is not normal,as you know; oil leaks do not affect the starter motor much,it is very enclosed,the oil flows around it; 1- First answer:Yes; but...a totally dead battery is a no-no; for 2 reasons: a) it will require extraordinarily good jumper cables,in the order of 100 dollars for the ...


10

Others have already told you the battery is a goner, I'll go into why: When a battery discharges lead sulfate builds up on the plates. It is deposited in very tiny crystals that will covert back to lead and lead oxide when the battery is charged again. However, if the crystals are allowed to sit they slowly merge, forming big crystals. These won't revert ...


13

It's the battery Starting an engine takes a much larger energy impulse than jumper cables can deliver directly through their typically-thin wires and the small surface area of their alligator clamps. (Unless you use very heavy jumper cables). So the way jump starting works, is you slowly add enough energy to the weak battery until it's charged up enough ...


0

It is corroded , not unusual , get a new one. A little grease will reduce corrosion. A problem can occur when corrosion product on the threads make it difficult to turn the bolt/nut.


2

The battery could be discharging because there's a problem with the bike's wiring that is causing a constant load on the battery, even when the bike is not running. This can happen when accessories are added directly to the battery versus through a switched circuit (i.e. the ignition). It could also be discharging simply because it's old and worn out (...


27

If the battery is completely dead, especially after sitting for two years, it most likely won't take a charge. Without the battery getting charged, you most likely don't have enough juice coming through the jumper cables to give it the power it needs to turn the Aztec over. Double check the voltage at the battery without the jumper cables on it. If it is ...


1

Power = volts X amps. A smaller capacity battery will generally deliver less cold cranking amps (CCA) than a larger capacity battery. By reducing the amps delivered by the battery you are reducing the power it can deliver to crank your starter, so you could have problems starting up or running under a high electrical load. If the 4Ah battery has the same ...


0

The only reason the charger is rated in Ah is the ability to correctly determine the end of charging. Generally, the charger limits the current until the battery gets to some voltage, then limits the voltage and monitors the current. The battery is considered charged when the current falls below a certain value. A larger battery will draw more current in ...


-1

I have a load tester that will tell the voltage of the battery. You should have the battery fully charged. You can put the battery under load test and it should return back to the proper voltage in the green range after the load test. You can get it tested like this with these at most repair shops. I have just worked on a battery that was only 7 months ...


1

A 100Ah battery will likely have a lower internal resistance than a 65Ah battery. That will mean that the 100Ah batter will try to draw more current when charging than the 65Ah battery. A good quality charger should be able to limit its maximum current to say for example 6A without any harm to itself or the battery. In that case it will take almost twice ...


1

Driving motorbike with an electronic dashboard and all necessary indicators including coolant temperature, oil level, fuel level, and all other indicating things... MAY BURN THE electronics, due to a high range of voltage variations. The battery acts like a "sponge" or a capacitor to the excess current, soaking it into itself. If there is no battery expect ...


Top 50 recent answers are included