Hot answers tagged

35

I think your guess will be correct. The clamp has probably been over-tightened in the past, has stretched and is no longer giving a good tight connection. The copper will have been added to act as a shim to make a tight connection.


24

You are right in the thinking of using less gas and that's exactly what the purpose was to have the start/stop feature. The main goal of doing it (at least here in the States) is for zero fuel consumption/zero emissions while the engine is stopped. This provides for better overall fuel consumption numbers to meet what the EPA has mandated for companies to ...


22

A rounded bolt is not a reason to junk a car. The numbers you're quoting sound fine for an alternator; if it was below 12V, I'd be worried. If you're still concerned, take the car to a spares store and ask them to check the battery and alternator. When it does come time to change the alternator, getting the bolt off would not take a lot of extra time; there ...


20

The oil problem You can run any engine speed you want as long as you keep the oil pressure up. Because of the impossibility of getting a roller bearing down a crankshaft, engine bearings are "plain bearings" with polished steel floating above babbitt (a soft metal). The oil pressure makes the bearings "float", so the dynamic forces of pistons being ...


9

12.45 to 11.94 in 6 days seems like a significant discharge. You should be able to leave your car for a month or longer and still have enough power to start. At your current discharge rate, I wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't start after 10 days. I would be looking at parasitic drain. Here is a guide. You can find YouTube videos also. Some ...


8

The engine needs a minimum rpm to idle smoothly - a v8 can idle smoothly about 500to 600rpm but a 1 litre 3 cylinder needs around 700 to 900rpm... It is not the companies that really decided to do the start/stop, if you do some research the various governments have implemented legislation over the years that required drivers to turn off the engine when ...


7

You're right that 10 amperes is faster, by a factor of 5x. Lead-acid batteries are charged in 3 stages, first by constant current (with voltage limit), then by constant voltage (with tapering current), then in the end during float charge the voltage is reduced to a float charge voltage level. The 2 ampere and 10 ampere options allow charging different ...


7

There are several possibilities: The bike's battery is bad. This is by far the least likely cause, as the previous battery behaved exactly the same way. The chances of having two batteries fail sequentially in the same manner is very low. The battery is not being charged when the motor's running. If there's something awry with the charging circuit or its ...


6

I have seen somebody spot-weld a short bolt to the rounded nut they are having trouble removing. It's cheap and quick if the equipment is on hand.


6

If you do a search for a 78DT battery as on the label on your battery, you will find that it is a dual terminal battery. It has 4 poles, but one of the top ones in your photo has a cap on it. If the cables on your vehicle will reach to the top poles of the existing battery, then you should be able to replace it with a ‘normal’ 2 pole battery with suitable ...


5

I'm not entirely sure that this question fits the primary purpose of this group BUT I have to say that I've long wondered why electric car manufacturers don't standardise on a battery format and devise some sort of unattended method of battery replacement. I thought something that you drive the car onto and then the battery pack is ejected from underneath ...


5

TL;DR: This idea is old, like OLD (1890s), but so far nobody has been able to set it up in a financially viable way. History The steam car, the internal combustion engine automobile, and the electric car emerged as the main competing technologies in the late 1890s until the 1920s. The concept of exchangeable battery service was first proposed as early ...


5

If the clamp is no longer getting tight enough, that could mean the metal is stretched and possibly weak. A dealership would want to replace the whole ground cable with a new, molded on clamp. If there is any slack in the cable, you can buy a replacement clamp and put that on the wire. One way or another, new clamp is the "proper" fix. In the mean time, ...


5

Replace it, with something like this:


5

I suspect it would be a good plan to check your terminal connections and other points associated with the power to the starter or solenoid. A poor connection in this circuit would present the characteristics you describe for a slow turnover and failure. It's possible that during your attempts, the bad connection(s) heated up due to the high current and high ...


5

From physical point of view, lowering the RPM means that you need to store the energy required to keep the engine running (and overcome friction) with a smaller angular speed. And the kinetic energy is proportional to speed squared. If you want to go from 600 RPM to 100 RPM, you will have (among other things) to make the flywheel 36 times heavier. Of course,...


5

A battery should be able to run the flashers for several hours and still start the car. There should be a sticker on your battery which tells the month and year it was manufactured. The sticker will either be M/YY indicating the month and year, or a code such as D6, where D is the fourth month of the year (sequentially mapped months A-L), and 6 is short for ...


5

In a word: Absolutely The lack of material means a lack of electron flow. You won't get the proper charge of the battery, the right amount of power out of it come starting time, nor the full buffering effect a battery provides to the electrical system. It is a lose/lose/lose situation here. Replace it. It doesn't have to be exactly the same type. In fact, I'...


4

Solar chargers are impacted by many factors: Glass: especially tinted glass filters light, you won't get maximum charge behind glass Direction: solar cells work best when pointed at the sun Sun intensity: you won't get full power on a cloudy day, and in the winter sun is less intense If you want to test your charger then take it out of the car and see what ...


4

The battery is located in the trunk next to the spare. There is a positive battery terminal in the engine compartment located next to the fuse box. Maybe this is what you are referring to as a smaller second battery? It's just a convenient place to access the positive battery connection from the engine compartment.


4

Given how complicated this seems from both posts, I would suggest that you fit a known good battery and run the complete set of tests on the charging system. I would include the tests for voltage drop across all the cables just to make sure. These tests are usually given in the workshop manual, but basically involve having all heavy loads on (lights, heater,...


4

Car companies focus on stop/start of the engine simply because There's a minimum RPM the engine can run at. You can sort of extend it using dual inlet/exhaust variable valve timing, but there are limits to that. If the engine is running, it's consuming some amount of fuel always. Also, some companies go bit further than stop/start. They stop the engine ...


4

TLDR: use 2A when unattended. An ideal battery charger does 3-stage charging based on the battery voltage - to quickly charge in the midrange, taper the charge near full, and then trickle at the right rate once full. This requires a fair amount of intelligence in the charger. Overcharging damages the battery. (Lots of things damage lead-acid batteries,...


4

Why copper? Because it is soft without being too plastic and easy to obtain. It is also highly conductive both thermally and electrically. Why do it? The terminal no longer clamps the post. The post is too small or the clamp is too large. This creates a sleeve. The thread on that bolt may also be stripped or seized. It is very commonly done to just hammer ...


3

If your motorcycle had never it's battery changed you should consider it being dead. Not being able to charge it could confirm the same. You should be having a new battery installed and if you plan on not riding it for long intervals consider a Li-Ion battery compatible with your vehicle (and/or removing the battery terminals)


3

Damage can come to the person's car who's providing the boost. I have seen blown alternators and other damage. The only lower risk way is disconnect the supply battery from the car. It will clear electronics settings doing this. These days I suggest getting a Lithium battery booster. I'm in my 50's unfortunately I have to turn people down if they want a ...


3

According to this article, it may not be that the battery is drained, per se, but rather that it has lost quite a bit of its capacity. The article states a battery will lose: 35% reduction @ 32°F 60% reduction @ 0°F Plus, it takes a large increase of amperage to turn the engine at the lower temperatures. This is the double whammy. Just when you need more ...


3

edit: as (I've just noticed that) @JamesJenkins has already pointed out: Gogoro is everywhere in Taipei and now several other cities in Taiwan. full disclosure; I'm not affiliated in any way and don't own one. Spec sheet for electric scooter and battery: imperial units metric units System (including batteries) is waterproof: IPX6, Above 30 mm: IPX7, ...


3

The problem is between your battery posts and wherever you attach your jumper cables. Bad, loose, or dirty, oxidized connection.


3

Not a good idea. Seltzer is acidic and will change the ph of your electrolyte. You should use distilled water only. Follow the instructions for your brand of battery. Be careful. Battery acid is dangerous.


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