Bad coils are just one of many things that could be to blame.
I'd say stop changing coils. It is highly unlikely that they were the root cause of the problem to begin with.
The symptoms provided are consistent with a misfiring engine. This usually means that there is an issue with the mixture of air and fuel reaching the engine (more on that in a bit).
The plain white connector with two wires, black and brown with a white stripe, go to a switch in the seat belt buckle. This turns off the warning light on the dash.
The yellow connector is for the side impact airbag inflator located in the outer seatback side bolster. These wires are carefully protected and colored yellow to let all who see then to work ...
After doing some research, I think I found your part. See diagram below:
You can see that the little T-junction is part of the PCV hose assembly (item 21 in the diagram). Unfortunately, this means you can't source the part separately, you'd need to buy the whole PCV hose. The part number of the PCV hose is 96474643.
I have no idea what "opening" the strut means.
In your vehicle the strut mounts to the knuckle with two big bolts. When these bolts are loose there is some wiggle room. This wiggle room is how camber is adjusted in your car.
If the wiggle room is not enough (assuming nothing is damaged) you have two options. The bolt holes can be oblonged by grinding. ...
GM Provides a flow chart to help you out.
TL;DR The car probably doesn't think you're in park.
Ignition Key Cannot Be Inserted, Rotated, or Removed from the Ignition
Ensure the transmission shift lever is in the PARK position and the
steering column is NOT in the locked ...
Low brake pedal and poor brake performance could be the result of any one of the following:
Air in the brake lines;
Low brake fluid level;
A leak in the brake lines or slave cylinders;
Defective master cylinder.
The reason it is more pronounced when the engine is running is because of the power assist provided by the brake booster, but most likely ...
This sounds like an alternator problem to me. If you have the means, pull the alternator and take to an AutoZone, Pep Boys, or the like. They will test it for free for you. The reason I suggest an alternator, is this is typical behavior when the alternator is dieing, where your electrical components start shutting off as you are going along. Also, if the ...
Check to see where the issue lies by doing the following:
Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the batter without the engine running. If the battery is in good shape, it should be around 12.9-13.1 volts DC (vdc). I would assume since you are getting a clicking noise, your voltage reading is going to be much lower. If you do get the correct voltage ...
There are many reasons your airbag lights can come on. With GM vehicles, it's generally due to the SRS (Safety Restraint System) circuit having a fault. When the ECM is powered on the SRS system and your ECM communicate with eachother. As a safety measure the computer will throw a code to alert you to a fault in the system. Generally if you don't have an ...
The most common problem with the Chevrolet with an airbag light on and the dealership that doesn’t want to tell you the codes is the clock spring is defective which is located in your steering wheel and activates your airbag. Sometimes they just crap out other times they are defective because of front end work and the wheel was spun one full rotation without ...
To explain for clarity, the HOLD function is to allow the transmission to select a specific gear range by pressing the button by the shifter.
If it's flashing, it probably means there's a condition that's going to keep you from using HOLD mode. Based on resources like this, it seems temperature malfunctions are one of those conditions so fixing it should ...
I don't think the clock resetting is related to this, although it could be a symptom of a computer problem. The possibilities that come to mind are:
Sensor failure: the temperature sensor may have failed and be giving a low reading
Sensor wiring problem: this is fairly likely, it all comes down to how electronic temperature sensors (i.e. thermocouples) work:...
I'd start by checking the door wiring and control per the electrical manual. While your car is relatively new and this is usually an old car problem, it's possible that the wiring harness to the door has been damaged.
There is possibly a bad ground (floating), or more likely a bad DRL module.
Does the DRL indicator come on in the instrument cluster at the proper time? I can be fairly certain the problem is NOT the DRL relay, the headlight switch, any fuse, or bulbs.
Electrical Diagram below:
There's always a chance that something got damaged when the fuses blow, however chances in this case are minuscule.
Make sure the situation with the short circuit is resolved, replace the fuse and don't do any work, especially electrical, with the power source connected.
Get your codes read and go from there. You're probably going to need a new wheel speed sensor or harness. If you scope or graph the WSS PIDs you'll probably see the signal dropping out. When the ABS light comes on it will disable the system.
Noise that increases with vehicle speed is typically something related to the wheels, tires, hubs or driveshaft, not the engine.
inspect your tires for a rock stuck in the thread
while driving, try to notice if the clicking sound goes away when you steer left, or steer right (if yes, it suggests a hub is worn out)
have the front suspension inspected (some ...
The most common problem that will trigger the airbag light to come on is the passenger seat mat sensor. This may be the problem in your case since you are mentioning that it goes off sometimes. Also considering the fact that the deader didn't know what was the problem. The seat mat may have been working properly when then scanned the codes. Still they should ...
Could be a very dirty throttle body. If the engine is very worn, there could be a lot of gasses/oil vapours being blown into the air intake which could cause a build-up of gunk around the throttle butterfly and idle control valve. This could block the required air for idle, which would then cause the engine to stall. Try taking the intake pipe off the ...
In addition to DucatiKiller's answer, it's also possible that the wires between the radio and speaker have failed - most likely at the point they pass from the car to the door. You could test this by disconnecting the speaker wires from the back of the radio and checking for continuity between there and the end the speaker plugs in to.
A common symptom of ...
You can take the speaker from the side that is functioning and test the other speaker wire with it.
If the other speaker works, you know you need a new speaker.
If the speaker doesn't work then you can check the wire at the radio.
If you need to check the wire, you can turn on the radio and check the voltage at the wire (12volt) and see if you are getting ...
When testing your battery, you must check the voltage across the actual battery posts. The posts are the lead posts coming out of the casing of the battery. Do not measure using the leads coming off of the battery. If, using the posts, your voltage is below 12.+ volts, and you have a known good voltmeter then you have a defective battery. If the voltage is ...
It turned out to be both the alternator and the battery. The mechanic I went to replaced them both and so far the car has been OK.
I did not have a multimeter handy and the car would not shift out of park or stay jump started, so I had to have it towed to a nearby auto repair shop to have this done.