OK, a month later I figured it out!
Here's what finally worked:
Delete all duplicate audio devices in the Bluetooth menu
Pair the phone using the hands-free system via the steering wheel "off hook" button
This seems arbitrary but it solved my problem.
See the owner's manual page 5-38 for the exact procedure.
If you start pairing using the the radio ...
So, I called the dealer and they gave me more confidence that trying to get the serial number of the radio is the way to go.
The dealer suggested pressing 1 & 6 on the radio again.
After MANY attempts of trying different ways to do this, I found the following to work:
Turn on the car
Make sure the radio is off...if not off, turn off. Should just see ...
It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring.
The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls.
I was looking for the same thing recently on a 94 Accord (different radio harness). Just looked around again to see if there's a solution on the 03-07 Honda radios and here are the results:
On some units you can solder into the aux interface. Otherwise you can cheat the radio into using its CD/Nav/XM expansion plug as an aux input. This usually requires an ...
I called a local Chevy dealership's service department out of curiosity. The technician I spoke to said that there is no way to access the car settings, that are available through the stock stereo, if the unit is replaced.
He mentioned the factory integration adapter that you linked to. He said that it doesn't do anything to access those settings and that ...
I read on a forum that the issue could be down to certain earth wires. When depressing the clutch pedal, you may be earthing a electrical line going to the sound system which in turn stops the music.
There are various earths located in the engine bay. Check around the inner wings etc and make sure all of them are tight.
What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey.
Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...
There are two types of locks - if you have entered an incorrect code too many times it may be a garage visit (Lock13)
Lock10 is when you have entered an incorrect code 10 times (I think) and can be cleared by holding the "6" button while turning the unit on.
Then you enter the security code the normal way:
Display Shows CODE with " - - - - "
Press Preset ...
Things you will need:
Steering wheel audio control adapter compatible with the head unit. Example for your truck
Dash kit. It allows for the radio to fit in the non-standard opening.Link to kits
Factory system adapter. Allows you to plug in the head unit harness into the factory one and keep the current speaker system in place without splicing in. ...
Not wanting to necro a dead thread, but this is a known issue with Honda Bluetooth audio.
There is a bug in the bluetooth handshake that results in data-only transmission. Proof.
This means then that the phone is encoding audio into data, and then the car is decoding that data back into audio. As a result, you get lag on the encode, and lag on the decode....
For anyone who has similar issues
I had a similar issue however I don't think it was exactly same. I tried the steps in the accepted answer with no success.
Research on my own
I tried different phones and noticed that some would have the static at low volumes and other would not. I looked online and sometimes the phone can cause this to happen.
How I ...
You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English).
If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances ...
A common way to run cabling from the back of the car to the front is tucking it under the floor carpet near an edge, where passengers' feet don't frequently stomp.
For example you could route it along an edge next to the door, then through the B-pillar or A-pillar, around the windshield and to the rear view mirror.
You need to test with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) because there is no way we can help you diagnose an issue.
Remove the dash and test at the harness (picture below of a headunit disconnected from a dash). Also, when the headunit is removed look for any burns or if the headunit has a blown fuse. If the back of the headunit has a burn mark it can ...
The battery will loose charge even if it has no loads connected. This happens due to the nature of the chemistry of lead acid type batteries. A fully charged battery will fully discharge in a few months. The older it is the faster it happens. Significant damage happens to a battery that is discharged while a charged battery has much less damage.
Because waveforms are only at the peak for a very short period of time, the most useful figure for amplifiers is RMS - which actually gives a realistic number for the power requirement.
That said, you want a speaker to cope with peaks, as these are what will kill it. Generally subwoofers do give both figures, as they are fed the greatest power in your audio ...
Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows:
4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4)
4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS SVC (1)
Your options include those you have mentioned which are common:
A single 5 channel amp
4 channel amp + monoblock amp
Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have ...
Your problem could be caused by two things. A shitty car charger, they are not all created equal, or a ground loop.
As far as the charger goes try several different ones, name brand ones tend to be the best (htc, iphone, samsung, etc...). If the problem goes away then it was the charger.
As far as a ground loop, what happens is that the ground potential ...
It looks to be the connector to the external DSP, pictured below the stereo here. Specifically, the second and fourth ports from the left. The stereo should have included two 20' cables for these.
For posterity, I derived the model to be Kenwood Excelon KVT-915DVD
Your car Audio should work well in your garage .Mine has been running for 17 years now .The 12 V DC power supply needs to be rated for the job as others have commented .If you use a switchmode power supply which is more common these days you may get noisey radio reception due to the crud that these supplies put out .Placing the Antenna on the roof will ...
Not difficult really, if you're handy with a screw driver.
Hondas are usually pretty easy to pull the dash apart on, and this guide will help you with that.
Then, it's just a case of installing your new stereo. Most "good" brands (like Alpine and so forth) will have adaptor plugs that can make it easy to go from your cars original stereo plug to the new ...
My '04 Chevy has a similar light; I don't think it's possible to disable it.
If it is bothersome, I would just mask over it with a piece of non-clear tape.
You could use Blu-tac as well.
The nice thing with both hacks is they are reversible.
In short NO.
The speaker outputs are not compatible with line inputs on say a subwoofer amplifier. The speaker output puts out too much power and has the wrong impedance. Connecting this to an amplifier will likely damage the amplifier.
In long Yes.
This requires a .... wait for it ... a $10 adapter.
Yes, the gain in quality is significant, even when you're not looking for an increase in volume.
Why having an amplifier matters
The stock system can only output about 15 W/channel (*). That's not enough to drive the speakers cleanly at the volume you need when driving at highway speed. At normal listening volume, the sound will often be distorted, or be ...
This has less to do with the audio signal, than it does with grounding. What you have described is a ground loop.
You likely have a grounding issue somewhere. Obviously we are not able to tell you where that is, so you will have to do some troubleshooting.
Here is a great article on how to troubleshoot car audio noise. Here is another on Diagnosing and ...
I have fitted many accessories to cars, trucks and agricultural vehicles, some taking less than 1 amp and others several hundred or more.
I have never put fuses on the earth or ground side. If the ground side fuse breaks then the device may actually cause more damage to itself or other items as it "finds" an alternate path to ground.
You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay.
The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There ...
I just did this on a 2007 Accord SE.
I bought this adapter which plugs into a port in the back of the factory stereo. To access the port, you have to disassemble a small portion of your car's interior. Watch this for instructions.
The sound quality is reasonable, but not excellent. You can hear a subtle but constant background noise when ...
The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off.
I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...