Hot answers tagged

7

It's not a huge deal. The biggest thing you'd be looking for is if there is leakage from there. It's not going to be causing any running issues or any such. I think the biggest thing would be if the stick was fitting deeper into the hole and giving you a false reading as far as oil level. If it's too low in the hole, it would appear you'd have more oil ...


5

What you're suggesting will not improve your compression and will cause other issues. You'll be causing yourself more issues than what you have currently. When an engines are put together with new piston rings, the cylinder walls are honed to allow the rings to seat against the walls, which means they are sealed. By re-honing only a portion of the cylinder ...


4

I'm also thinking there is crud built up in your engine. Prior to taking it to a mechanic, there's something you can try first. Pick up two cans of Seafoam. The first can, dump into your fuel tank. The second can you are going to have to do some work with. First, this is a two person job. Second, pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster (not from the ...


4

Welcome, Mike. I hope you kept your receipt as you likely have at least one defective diode in your new alternator. If you replace it and experience the same problem, you will want to check the wiring and connections between the positive battery terminal and the alternator BAT terminal to make sure it's not causing the diode(s) to fail. Or, if you prefer, ...


3

You will want to use a vacuum pump to remove any remaining air in your system Using a hand vacuum pump, you can get a low end one, will remove the frustration of bleeding brakes with two people. One to pump the brake one to open the bleeding nipple on the calipers and master cylinder. If your pedal is going to the floor after servicing your hydraulic ...


3

I'm not intimately familiar with the Altima's linkage, but I bet something is worn in the shift linkage not allowing it to go into second gear completely, especially since it happens when the vehicle is off. Since it isn't being allowed to go into second gear completely, when torque is applied through the transmission, it is popped out of gear. This should ...


3

Honestly it would be cheaper to buy a new engine rather than rebuild. Your looking at roughly 26.6 hours. This is just labor, this does not include new seals, bearings, gaskets etc... R&R on an engine is 11.6 hours.


3

There'd be no way to tell for sure if something was frying them, but would suggest to you this would be highly unlikely. It is completely within reason for the rebuilt alternator to have gone bad ... that's why they have a warranty. Yes, it's a PITB to take on and off, but at least it didn't cost you anymore than an extra trip to the store.


3

It could very well be your alternator has gone out. Open the hood and put the probes from a multimeter set to vdc onto the battery terminals. Observe the voltage of the battery with the vehicle running. If the voltage is slowly creeping down, your alternator is not functioning (it's not charging the battery, so the engine is absorbing the energy to keep ...


3

Your vehicle is designed (early) pre-OBD, so it will not affect the vehicle operation to any great extent, maybe a minor oil seepage. Later vehicles monitoring the air imput to the engine, ie OBD, the dipstick becomes important so it does not leak air. With OBD, a leaking dipstick seal would cause a mis-reading from the MAF, via the PCV, and cause rich ...


3

The first port of call should be your brake fluid reservoir. The emergency brake light will stay on if the brake fluid level is low (which could happen if your brake pads are wearing thin).


3

It could be that the starter is not engaging as you mention, but that wouldn't affect a bump-start (or push-start). If the bump-start won't work then one of 3 things has to be true: No fuel for combustion No air for burn No spark for ignition There are a few other (much less likely) possibilities, but those are probably your prime candidates. With that ...


3

I'm having the same problem on my Nissan Qashqai (Nissan Connect 1). However, I've come to the conclusion that this is a problem on the phone side, not on the side of Nissan Connect, or maybe the result of some incompatibility between the two. Observations on my side: My Android phone (bq Aquaris X5) loses the pairing at irregular intervals. I don't have ...


3

You may have an air leak in your power steering system, or the fluid just may be old. Look in your service history to see if you have any details of when it was last changed. It's possible you've been driving a long time with orange fluid. Unless your power steering pump is whining or you're having steering issues there's no emergency, just get it checked ...


3

If it's only doing this in Park (which is what I think you're describing) then the most likely explanation is the shift lock solenoid actuating - this is what prevents you changing the shifter out of Park without pressing the brake. Normally this shouldn't be a particularly loud sound, however it can be somewhat temperature dependent (I've heard of it being ...


3

Highly unlikely that you've damaged anything. Just check your oil and coolant; if they're OK, you're OK.


2

In this case, the sound came from the rear brake pads which had completely worn away down to the metal backing. Once I replaced the rear pads and rotors (which had significant scoring) the sound went away.


2

Fault Code P0462 reads out - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input and could be caused by - - Faulty fuel level sensor - Fuel level sensor harness is open or shorted - Fuel level sensor circuit poor electrical connection - Combination meter Since you're getting the right output when the tank is topped up, this is most likely a failing sensor. The check ...


2

The first place to look for the headlights would be the fuse panel(s). Often there are two: one inside the passenger compartment, either at the driver or passenger kick panel or on the side of the dash where the door covers the dash on the driver side. The other is the engine compartment (in a black plastic box--diagram will be on the inside cover or on the ...


2

Based on the age of you vehicle you should be over 100k miles. Have you maintained the transmission? Replaced the filter and flushed the fluid? If so, it could be the transmission its self from wear and tear. Does your car have a manual gear selector too? Can you shift into all gears manually, cold or warm? We recently had a 2004 Altima here at my shop for ...


2

Unfortunately you can't. Brake lines have double the strength than they need. Rust degrades that strength. The problem is that at 50% strength they still stop the car without a problem. Now when they degrade below this a good panic stop can burst a line. The line won't show any visual signs of being ready to burst. If your lucky (sort of) the line will ...


2

Cause Your car (like most cars) saves the milage in a small memory chip inside the instrument cluster. That chip is called an EEPROM. Like most memory units EEPROMs are subject to wear. If you rewrite the data often enough the chip will fail to save the new data or save corrupted data. This could be the case here. So, why is the "correct" (i.e. new) value ...


2

Check the cables on the back of the alternator are connected correctly. Charge the battery. Turn the ignition on and check that the battery charge warning light illuminates. Start the car and check that the battery charge light extinguishes. If the battery charge light is still lit up, then either the belt is slipping, the alternator is faulty or the cables ...


2

The TPMS sensor in each wheel does not come with new tires, it a separate part. There are TPMS reseal kits that are available separately, see picture below. The TPMS sensor is to be resealed each time a new tire is installed. This is industry best practice. It is not always done. It appears this was not done when your tires were installed or the new seals ...


2

I doubt that putting an alternator on this car will fix the problem. It sounds more like a parasitic draw causing this issue. You may have to take your car to a specialty electrical shop, where they deal with these things all the time. There are ways to detect a draw that is just big enough to slowly draw power from the battery, and since you drive very ...


2

It sounds like the dimmer switch is set to off. The car's dash lights are on a dimmer switch. That switch allows you to change the brightness of the lights at night. The switch is capable of switching the lights from full-off to full-on. Also, it is not uncommon for dashboards to have their lights on during the day, while the regular lights are off. This ...


1

After further evaluation, what ended up causing the original issue posted here were three different things: The power steering fluid was on a low level. I filled that to MAX and checked for any leaks, which there were none. I also filled my antifreeze, while I was at it. I ran over something while driving on an Interstate the week prior, which popped the ...


1

Unless you damaged something else during the oil change, or some oil ended up where it shouldn't... this is probably a poorly timed, completely unrelated problem. The only interface between the engine and power steering is the belt system. If your engine had slowed to the point that it could no longer turn your power steering belt properly (which takes ...


1

short answer: The air is too cold. long answer: too much cold air is getting through the engine radiator cooling it too much, blasting your engine effectively causing it to be air cooled. Does your temp guage ever get up to operating temperature? If it doesn't then you should block some of your radiator with some cardboard so it will warm up normally. ...


1

Cats don't really like exposure to fuel. If your car has bad coils resulting in unburnt fuel, this can ruin a cat, hence how they are related.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible