Hot answers tagged

7

Since this variable displacement compressor features only a clutch coil cable and no solenoid valve cables, it's "internally controlled", that is, it doesn't require any control at all from an external source to operate (this kind of variable displacement compressor necessarily requires a clutch, otherwise the AC system would basically be always on; instead, ...


6

My friend faced a similar issue on his '03 Nissan Maxima. In his case we discovered that the brake pedal switch was not making any contact with the pedal linkage. The switch relies on contact with the linkage to break the brake light circuit. If there is no contact with the switch (like when the brake pedal is pressed) the switch will complete the circuit ...


4

I can think of three scenarios which may be causing your issue: As @amphibient stated, the synchro may be going bad This could also be due to poor shifting technique. If you don't press the clutch down all the way, you may find yourself grinding gears. If you release the clutch too soon during the shift, you are going to see the same. If you have a weak ...


4

An oil leak where you see a drip form, but it doesn't drip is not an immediate problem. If this is something you don't want to fix right away, there shouldn't be a huge issue. There are two concerns: Keep a close eye on the oil and ensure it stays topped off. You'll want to check it a little more often than you would under normal circumstances so as to ...


3

The rubber seal around the outer edge of the thermostat should provide the seal without the use of RTV. 3+mm would be enough to cause a leaking issue, no doubt. As for the RTV which you now have on there, you'll need to clean it up because I believe you'll run into sealing issues with it there. Since the piece is plastic, you'll have to take extra care not ...


3

Before you replace anything try cleaning the corrosion off the contacts to see if that fixes it. Electronics stores sell contact cleaners which usually work well for that sort of thing. If you have a rotary tool that might work too, just use a smooth bit to avoid damaging anything. Sometimes a good scrape with a flat head screwdriver will do the trick, but ...


3

Synchronizers are friction devices. They are most commonly made out of brass although other materials may be used. Brass is a soft metal and as it wears down the power it produces would not damage other components. The synchronizer resembles two cones that fit one inside the other. One cone is attached to the blocking ring and the other to the gear train. ...


3

If you have light surface rust, just driving around and using your brakes normally is a better way to clear it. If however the rust is pitting and flaking the rotors, you should just jump to Step B and replace them.


3

I know exactly the feeling you are having ... been in this situation many times. The thing you need to do is be malevolent on it. You need to grab a pry bar which will give you some leverage. Do not be nice to it. Put the pry bar up between the inner CVJ and the case and really have at it. The axle will pop before you hurt anything (besides yourself). ...


3

As @ Paulster2 has stated you need to determine where the sensor is leaking. I would focus my concerns on the oil pressure sensor very soon. The oil sending unit is under pressure, the oil pan is merely a container for the oil.The oil pump has the capacity to empty all the oil out of the engine in less than a minute at high rpm. If the oil sending unit were ...


3

In the top picture, the round thing which is to the bottom right of the image looks like the power steering fluid reservoir. In the bottom picture, this looks like the return line (what you have annotated), which should be attached to the reservoir. You need to clean/inspect these areas to see where your fluid is coming from. If just the connection to the ...


2

I think the basis for the replacement of the strut is really up to two things: How old are the current struts? If old, can you afford to replace them, or is just replacing the boot more economical for you? If the struts are the original struts which came on the car, it may not do any harm to just change them out. To change out the boot alone will incur ...


2

I have the same problem with my Tacoma when shifting from the 2nd into the 3rd. The reason in my, and more than likely your case as well are bad syncro rings and the only fix pretty much is to take the gearbox out and either replace the whole thing or rebuild the syncros.


2

All the handbrake is doing is using the caliper to bring the pads together on the rear brakes. I don't know if the Nissan Almera is any different than the vast majority of other cars, but most have the emergency brake on the rear brakes. The only way I can see this being helpful is if something is wrong with the brakes besides them being stuck, and the pads ...


2

tl dr: I don't think it's because the plug is too cold. Now that I can see the image, these look like ash deposits. According to this website, ash deposits are: Caused by the use of leaded fuel, fuel additives, and/or oil additives. Check for worn piston rings and/or valve guides. Misfiring may occur due to the deposits on the electrodes. Here's what ...


1

White deposits or blistering typically means it's running too hot or too lean. Too cold will manifest as a blackened tip because the fuel is not burning completely. It's odd that you were running a heat range cooler and have a plug that appears to be running way too hot. My advice would be to check your ignition timing with a timing light to make sure it ...


1

The act of repacking a shock absorber typically requires it to be unbolted from the wheel hub knuckle at the shocker’s bottom end. During this process, if the tie rod is not removed it’s ball joint can become damaged. If it is removed, it has to be done up again. Either of these can contribute to an inspection finding it to be loose or having excess free ...


1

I would suggest that you should proceed as follows: remove the old pins make new ones solder wire extensions onto these new pins fit them into your plug solder the new wire extensions onto the existing wires test (with temporary insulation) cover the joints permanently with shrink-wrap or insulation tape


1

I found the problem and it was a short in the extra wiring and relay that they put in for the extra horn. Apparently, when they removed the broken extra horn and replaced it with a standard horn, they created a short somehow. I removed the fuse from the extra horn relay, disconnected it from the battery and put electrical tape on the wires. That solved the ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible