Yes this is bad for your engine for a multitude of reasons. In fact, it's not good to run your engine at full throttle for extended periods of time unless the engine is designed to take it, whether it's cold or warmed up. Believe me when I say your little 1.2l Agila engine is not designed to take that kind of stress.
I'll start by suggesting that engines, ...
The short answer is probably not, but you are creating undue hardship on the internals that will likely lead them to fail earlier than they would otherwise.
When you drive your car, you are putting wear and tear on basically everything. Driving your car harder (accelerating quickly, stopping abruptly) just adds to the wear you are putting on it. Even just ...
Would this be safe?
tl;dr: No. It's hard to say exactly how unsafe or how bad the consequences might be.
Assuming the rails themselves weigh on the order of 5-10 kg, you're talking about almost doubling the advised load on the whole system.
From reading that advisory, it's hard to say exactly what failure modes their mechanical engineers are expecting. ...
Regulations limit the amount of unburnt hydrocarbons that can be released into the atmosphere, therefore fuel tanks on cars now have to be sealed to stop these emissions. The noise you hear is air rushing into the fuel tank, due to the low pressure caused by the use of fuel.
Absolutely not. There's no issue here. The engine/transmission were not coupled. There was no stress on the transmission. It just was running backwards from what it usually would. Really, it's no big deal.
If you really want an intake that will likely survive deep water, you're going to need something more like:
Is the height of the bottom of the chassis the maximum height I can
drive through without hydrolocking? (This question is bordering on
Would I hydrolock, even though the intake is really high?
You might think ...
All you might be doing is putting the cable under more stress than it needs. The cable will stretch over time. This is normal. It will take a long time for the life of the cable to expire.
I remember learning that automobiles automatically adjust for this stretch whenever you back up.
Basically, don't hammer the thing unless you really feel you need to.
In theory, the harder you accelerate or decelerate(brake), the more you put stress on the different parts.
Most stressed parts when accelerating, in this order:
Most stressed parts when braking:
Forks and the rubber buffers
To check if your suspension is kaput you will need to stand near each Axel and depress the fender, if it bounces up two or more times than they might be shot.
Alternatively you can manually inspect the suspension by checking each of the coils and dampers for any oil leaks (dampers) and deformities(Coils).
If all the above things are good then as paulster ...
I've personally had success clearing these nozzles using a sewing pin; the type that a seamstress may use to pin a garment together just before it is sewn.
You can not only use the pin to clear the nozzle but you can also use it to adjust the area of the screen that it's point at once it's been cleared.
Above the pedal should be a button, with 2 wires coming out of it. When your pedal is up, the button will be pressed all the way down, as you press the pedal, be button will release. At some point this button turns on your tail lights.
I know the one on my truck is adjustable (because I've had to adjust it). In this case, you remove the wires from the ...
Your engine wears faster when you apply full/big throttle. It is not so bad if your engine is warmed up, and you are not driving like this all the time, this is why you have the rev range up to 6500.
When your engine is fully warmed up you can use the high revs for overtaking and going uphill. When the extra power is not needed switch to higher gears.
The slower you go, the longer they'll last
All suspension components (springs, shocks, control arms) are made of materials that last for a certain number of cycles before failing due to fatigue.
How many cycles before failure will be governed by the stress that the suspension components are made to endure, which will depend on the height of the kerb and ...
The Nozzle is the bottle neck, therefore that is the most likely place for a clog. Pull the hose from the back of the nozzle and use a needle to clear the blockage and reattach the hose, making sure that no debris are remaining in the hose/nozzle.
If the car feels like a galloping horse then chances are that the shock absorbers are non-functional.
An old-school method of testing the shocks is to press down on the front or back of the car and let go. If the car rebounds up and down 2-3 times it means the shocks are not doing their job.
Shocks can be replaced, but they can also be reconditioned by ...
What does this mean?
Brake imbalance is caused because one side of the braking pair (front or back axle) is not applying as much power as the other side.
What's wrong with my brakes?
There are too many answers for this forum. It could be any number of things like a sticking caliper, or a worn pad, or air in the lines.
What does the 23% mean?
I regularly used to drive a Vauxhall Agila of the same age with large loads on the roof (bikes, roof boxes, long lengths of wood/plumbing/ladders, small boats, a big TV, and even a bath). My biggest concern was always the stability of the car, It is really light and tall, so too much on the roof lifts the centre of gravity high up. Couple this with cross-...
If you have a complete donor car, it is by far easier to swap it out than to retrofit. If the donor car doesn't have an engine in it, level of difficulty goes up exponentially. This is due to not knowing where everything is/was/should be. Also, you'll be on an expedition in parts finding. You'd need to find the right AC compressor, lines, & pulleys which ...
If there is an Agila model with aircon, chances are most of the fittings are in place already (it's cheaper to have one common platform). It's quite a job actually though. Plus you'll need to install a new pulley belt. It's not impossible, but if you have the money and don't care about the learning experience, have someone else do it.
The spinning actually puts relatively little stress on your drivetrain. The initial surge of power that breaks the wheels loose is the biggest shock to your drivetrain. Once you're spinning, it's easy to maintain and not very stressful.
Incidentally, wheel hop is the killer. During wheel hop, your wheels break and then regain traction repeatedly, which ...
If your wheels are spinning, then don't worry. From the engine and transmission's perspective there's no difference between the wheels spinning or turning normally. The problem comes in when the wheels don't spin and you feel a dull thud instead. That means you're shocking your transmission, which will damage it.
When tuners increase the performance of your ...
Some owner's manuals will recommend using a needle or small pin to dislodge debris that causes clogging or misdirection of flow.
It is normal for the spray nozzles to get clogged in dusty environments; you shouldn't have to replace them.
Bear in mind that unless you were to get out and measure the height of the water, you won't know how deep it is.
Furthermore, as you drive into the water you will create a bow wave so the actual water level may change and still cause water to be sucked into the engine.
You also risk wetting the coil pack which would stop your engine running and potentially ...
I tried unblocking them with pins, but they turned out to be really blocked.
In the end, I simply bought some new mist washer jets on eBay. It was like £5, and I was going to upgrade anyway.
I simply fitted them myself by hacking them slightly, by trimming down the plastic stumps. Do NOT cut off too much, or you will need to buy some more as they won't ...
The only way to get heated mirrors is to buy the mirrors separately, but there is although a product that is a heated pad to place on the back of your mirror, although you will have to have wiring done to turn them on and put them on a switch, which is really not that big of a problem.
Try just driving with a window open a crack to allow the inside to breath a little bit. It's your breath which usually causes the windshield to mist up.
Also, use a product like Rain-X Anti-Fog. By ensuring your windshield is first clean and then by applying the product, there is nothing for the humidity to stick to, so no fog.
I'm sure this is normal. There will be a little free play in the linkages to the master cylinder/ brake fluid compressing in the brake lines so the brakes will not be applying until you push the pedal further any way. It reduces the risk of your brake lights flickering while driving if pedal is bumped. But I am not a mechanic. I've driven truck for many ...
It definitely sounds like your brake light switch isn't activating when it should.
I like the list of options presented by rpmerf in his answer. It's definitely something you can tackle if you have a couple of hours to spare.
Here's a hands-on approach to figure out what's going on:
Push the driver's seat back as far as it will go and put something like a ...