Hot answers tagged

8

If you want to know for sure, you can ask the dealer what they use. It would be good to know for the future anyway. There are two main types of anti freeze, generally they all use ethylene glycol as the coolant base; though they differ in the type of corrosion inhibitors used. "Traditional" coolants (often green or yellow) generally use silicates, while "...


7

The easiest way is to check is to jack the wheel up (put it on a jackstand), take the wheel off, clean off the affected areas with brake cleaner, then have a second person push on the brake pedal hard to observe where the leak is coming from. If the fluid is up onto the brake line, I'd suggest this is actually the source of your leak. It could also be ...


7

Its not uncommon for the control arm bushings on many Hondas/ Acuras to expire quickly. It is however a bit dangerous to drive with them if they are starting to wear down or dry rot. They harden when this happens and cause other components on your suspension and sub-frame to fail. The lateral and vertical shaking of your car will cause something to give ...


7

No - that's all you need to test. Now drive the car to a nearby garage and get them to do a front-end alignment on it - you won't have gotten everything exactly where it needs to be, so let them fix it to specification. As an added bonus, it puts a fresh pair of mechanics eyes onto your work, so after it's been aligned, you know that everything is good.


6

For anyone who has similar issues I had a similar issue however I don't think it was exactly same. I tried the steps in the accepted answer with no success. Research on my own I tried different phones and noticed that some would have the static at low volumes and other would not. I looked online and sometimes the phone can cause this to happen. How I ...


6

Here is where I would start. First check the tension of the belt, just a quick push on the belt and you'll be able to tell, if its firm it's good, but if the belt has slack you'll need to tighten a tensioner pulley, or tighten down the pump or other pulley somewhere. Also while the car is running, go check the serpentine belt and watch it to make sure it isn'...


4

There is a very limited number of things that could be wrong here and all of them revolve around the battery. If the battery is new and charged and you haven't left anything on that has flattened this battery, then you have a bad connection from the battery positive to the fuse box or the battery negative to the bodywork. Check that the battery connectors ...


4

A clicking sound on acceleration especially while turning is most commonly caused by a CV (constant velocity) joint. A CV joint transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels. If you look under the car behind the front wheel you will see a black rubber cone around each end of the axle. This is the boot or cover for the CV joint. Many times the joint ...


4

It very well can be a bad battery even though the lights come on. Starting the car is the single hardest thing (draws a lot of amperage) for the battery to do. If it is becoming weak, it will become harder and harder for it to crank the engine. The lights and other accessories may still work because they draw less amperage (which the battery can still ...


4

Using a BFH (Big F-ING Hammer), hit the steering knuckle right on the end, directly in line with the arm. Leave the jack in place and don't be afraid of it. Hit it like you mean it. The tie rod end should pop free of the knuckle arm in two or three whacks. The principle here is, the vibration from the hit travels through the arm and dislodges the tie Rod end....


4

2 things about removing inner tie-rods: Yes, the outer tie-rod (tie-rod end) needs to come off first in order for most tie-rod removal tools to go on In my experience, tie-rod removal tools don't have the grip to handle the amount of torque needed to remove a tie-rod that is seized with rust and age. I've tried them but ended up using a pipe wrench. One ...


4

Keep the torch pointed at the exact same spot, don't move it around. There is usually dirt or metal shaving nearby that will start to glow orange, that's your cue that it's hot enough. 30 seconds is a good reference, 2 minutes is on the long side. Splash some water on it until it stops sizzling. If it didn't sizzle, it wasn't hot enough. The idea of heat is ...


4

Well, there's a few things going on here: your tire pressure monitoring system is saying the pressures are OK (first line at the top) the units for these numbers are kiloPascals (kPa, right next to your front-right tire pressure) ideally, tire pressures should be even, but we don't live in an ideal world. The variation you have isn't huge. if you prefer PSI ...


4

It appears the threaded portion of the body has broken away from the body itself. The split would have occurred at the point where the image below points to as "spark plug gasket". This could have been done by over tightening the spark plug. The insulator has pulled out from the body and the threads are stuck in the head. You'll need to remove the threads ...


4

David's comment is correct. It's either the linkage, a damaged or bent shift fork, or something wrong with a synchronizer or internal transmission component. Try shifting into 5th with the engine off, vehicle not moving, and the clutched pressed in. If you still can't get into 5th easily, it's most likely mechanical linkage or a shift fork. If you can ...


3

I'm in no way an expert on either Acura nor Automatic gearbox service. But in one episode of wheeler dealers they had a problem with an automatic Porsche Boxster, it was a "tiptronic" gearbox which didn't shift correctly in automatic, but in manual. He changed the gearbox oil, and everything was ok. Since it's goes away after the initial change I thought ...


3

Your serpentine belt is squealing on the alternator. One of two possible causes for this. Either your serpentine belt is worn out or your tensioner pulley is not doing it's job (tensioning the serpentine belt). The pulley can wear out over time allowing the belt to slip a little. At startup there is a heavy load placed on your alternator, which causes it to ...


3

Finding oil in the coolant system most often means a broken head gasket. There is a tester that you can use to see if this is a problem, which costs $35 or so. Amazon has one here: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI But you can find a similar tester in most auto parts stores. Basically it will show if there are ...


3

Look at the brake light switch, then look for the plastic stopper that the switch plunger contacts. If it is missing or broken the switch plunger does not get pushed in causing the lights stay on all the time. The most likely cause of this sort is failure of the brake switch stopper. An image of a typical broken stopper is seen here. broken brake stopper ...


3

From your description, this is normal. If you check it out, you'll probably find the condensation is on the outside. You've made the windshield sufficiently cold enough that the moisture is dewing on the outside of it. With how moisture condensates, it doesn't take much on a hot humid day to cause this to happen.


3

Acura just posted a recall and oil consumption test on all 2012 mdx. Just call your local dealer to set up the test which costs approx $40. Then they will start the process of rebuilding the piston rings to fix the issue. We just had ours tested and they are fixing it next week. The coverage extends the mileage to 8 yrs/125k, or unlimited miles but you ...


3

This is what I use for plastics There other brands and types but this is specifically the best I have found for the price. There is better but pricey. Pull the door panel for best results. Clean both parts to be joined with alcohol and let dry. Mix an appropriate amount of epoxy, while it is thin, butter both halves you want to join but don't assemble ...


3

It should not take a "ridiculous amount of torque" to open up the pad spacing to fit over the rotor. First of all, before you place the new pads you should ensure that the piston is pushed back into the cylinder of the caliper so that it's flush (or nearly flush depending on the design) with the surface of the caliper. How you push the piston in ...


2

You said that the service station didn't mention having to top up the coolant, but I'd start by checking the coolant level yourself. The coolant overflow bottle should be prominent in the engine compartment, and the min/max levels should be well marked. If the coolant level is good, perhaps you have a failing thermostat. This could result in higher than ...


2

Apparently this particular model suffers from this issue in cold climates. This is due to the factory o-ring failing to provide a good seal and thus allowing air to enter the Power Steering Pump Inlet. The fix is to replace the o-ring. A step by step guide to this is provided in this link


2

Turns out it was just a spider laying eggs in the valve. Asked the dealer to try blowing it out with the compressed air. Been working ever since, no problems. Apparently the spiders like the smell of inside there and this is a somewhat common problem documented in the service knowledge bases for this car and several others.


2

If you want to top it off just once, it's better to get a bottle of distilled water and pour that in. If you're an unlucky person, the two types of antifreeze might coagulate (form a jelly) and mess up your engine. Anti-freeze is cheap enough for you to flush your coolant system and fill it up with the type you want to put in. I would suggest emptying the ...


2

If in doubt, replace it - it'll be a lot better for your peace of mind! Plus, as Steve says, it may be illegal in your jurisdiction and /or fail any roadworthyness test - and if you were in an accident because it failed, and they could prove you knew about it beforehand, they'd throw the book at you... I'd also get the alignment of the various suspension ...


2

Depending on your jurisdiction, it may be illegal. In the UK, the condition of these "dust covers" is now inspected and any degradation is considered a fail. When you consider the cost to replace these as opposed to having them fail during operation, I don't think there is a good argument not replace them.


2

The power in the in pins 1 and 3 proves that fuse 19 is OK and that the PCM will turn on PGMFI relay #1 and further that said relay will supply power to the fuel pump relay (PGMFI relay #2). It does not prove that the relay is good. My next tests would be apply power to Pin #2 and see if the fuel pump activates. If not repair the pump. If the pump works ...


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