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The symptoms all point to a faulty battery, and an incorrect test result for the Autozone battery test.
Starting with this: Hitting brakes: Brake lights come on and interior lights dim: a good battery should have no problem driving both the brake lights and interior lights without dimming. The same goes for many of the other tests you've done. If ...
35
Yes. One of your brake pads on the caliper side of the brakes had been worn so far down it popped out of place. Now you are stopping using the caliper piston against the brake rotor. You will now have to not only get the brake pads and rotors replaced, but the caliper as well. If you cannot fix this yourself, you should get the vehicle towed to a repair shop....
18
Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery may be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never ...
15
All symptoms point to a dead battery, but as you have already attempted to rule that out, the next thing I'd check would be bad connections or cables.
Turn on the headlights or something else that consumes a fair amount of power - this makes the results of these tests clearer. If the battery is fine, the voltage at battery terminals should stay close to 12 ...
13
Figured out it (thanks to a shove in the right direction by @mikes): It's the remote engine start accessory's antenna.
I didn't think of it when I was asked if I had "add-ons" because it's an official Honda accessory (that I can't do without!) installed by the dealer before taking delivery.
Specifically, see this exploded diagram part #4:
I went back to ...
12
I suspect that the 15% oil is talking about oil life. Just make sure that you check the oil level and top it off appropriately before taking the trip. Change the oil a quickly as possible once the trip is done.
answered Aug 10 '13 at 13:21
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12
Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows.
This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid ...
11
It sounds like the brake pads have either completely worn through or otherwise failed, your car is not safe to drive at all.
In this case you will certainly need new pads on both sides and possibly new rotors (disks) if they have been scored by metal/metal contact.
Depending on exactly what has failed the calipers and pistons may be ok but they need to ...
10
From personal experience, I'd replaced ALOT of these working at the dealership. It wasn't just the accords either, it was quite a few Honda and Acuras that used the same design and power delivery system.
The most common issues I saw out of probably close to 100+ failures of these was:
Ground strap on the starter becoming corroded.
Bad ground to engine
Your ...
10
The hump provides longitudinal rigidity in the unibody. The fact that it also provides a place to route the exhaust is a bonus.
Notice that modern CAD-designed vehicles have much less of an obvious hump, unless they also have a roofless option (cabriolet, convertible, removable hardtop). On these vehicles the center hump is the main rigid structure in the ...
9
A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place.
If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust ...
8
Spark? looks good enough to me. Jumps a 30kV gap looks blue enough to rule out a secondary issue.
Great.
MAP sensor voltage looks OK < .90v with the engine hot @ idle. Pretty much rules out a sticking valve or the valves being out of adjustment.
Concur, and just about rules out engine pumping problems. That and the
good compression test.
Fuel trims ...
8
Anyone can feel free to disagree with me since I'm not 100% on this, but I believe those bumps are placed into the design in order to give the exhaust system a little more breathing room.
Note the hump in the actual body of the car above the exhaust here. This is to aid in keeping unwanted heat away from the passenger area of the car while the heat shield ...
8
I don't think the hump is there just for the exhaust, although as was pointed out in the comment it adds ground clearance which is a nice thing. The "transmission hump" (in honor of rear wheel drive cars) also adds structural strength – essentially a beam running down the center of the car.
I suspect that if it wasn't needed (or at least very useful) for ...
7
Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.
7
If the screw was just screwed into fibreglass, then a simple fibreglass patch is all you need. Cover the hole, and then once it has set, drill a pilot hole and fit the new screw.
Alternatively you could use a couple of washers and a bolt, rather than a screw.
Because this is not a high load, and is hidden in normal use, you don't need anything that clever ...
7
You need Spark, Fuel, and Compression for an engine to run. Since this engine was just reassembled, there is a lot to question.
Spark -
rotor position - beware of caps where the points are not "straight through"
plug wires in the correct position
timing - may need play with it a bit
coil - ensure it is firing
spark plug firing - use a jumper to connect ...
7
You need to check for leaks in the air intake
A leaky air intake can explain hunting idle and I don't think spraying carb cleaner is always conclusive as some cracks can be really hard to see/detect.
There are several ways to check this:
block the air intake completely
The easiest way to do this is disconnect the airbox and cover the piping before the ...
7
From underneath the car, you may be able to get access to the starter motor. It is then possible to connect jump leads from a charged battery to the car by connecting the positive lead to the the large connector on the starter motor and the negative lead to a suitable place on the engine. Once you have power, you may be able to open the car as usual.
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When you get a bunch of codes on a car, the best way to work through is to fix only the first code - in this case the P2195. The easiest check is to look for a disconnected cable - Rear A/F Sensor Sensor 1 Bank 1 (which is also a cause of P1172). If everything checks out good, the other cause of a P2195 points towards the MAF having some debris in it.
From ...
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The relays are the same
They should be interchangeable.
Here is a parts diagram.
They control components of the fuel system.
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If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...
6
You might be interested in this question:
What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor?
The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).
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The caliper should be fine once the brake line issue is repaired providing it didn't get hot enough to melt the seals. The pads may appear fine but I would replace them. Pads that got that hot mays have hairline cracks in them. The cracks could eventually cause pieces of the lining to flake off. The rotor is likely in need of replacement also. As far as ...
6
I would never ignore a worn tie rod; you could be driving down the road, hit a serious bump, and suddenly lose your ability to steer in a straight line, or worse. If you have the the tie rod replaced, I doubt that any reputable mechanic would tackle that without also repairing the power steering rack. I personally would never ignore any kind of steering ...
6
The OP indicated in their comment that they didn't maintain timing in the process of replacing the timing belt.
Since the 2007 Accord V6 has an interference engine, attempting to crank the engine over with the timing off will result in mechanical damage, which would explain why it is running roughly.
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quick tip if any one is doing their timing chain or belt. make sure you have a picture showing the tdc( top dead center), double check all the marks match exactly no error is tolerated here, the crank, exhaust cams, intake cams etc.
the tip is first throw the belt on the crank, then align the belt on the cam which ever is far away from the tensioner, then ...
6
On the Honda SOHC V6 engine when doing timing the mark on the crank sprocket should line up with a small arrow on the block @ 12 o'clock.
The bank 2 cam gear should have the cylinder 1 TDC mark lining up with the indent on the backing plate.
The bank 1 cam gear is pretty much the same as bank 2. It has an indent and a mark on the cam gear.
A good practice ...
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It sounds like the parking brake is siezed on, hence no resistance when pulling the lever. It looks like these cars use the same calliper to apply both the foot brake and the parking brake. A common fault with these designs is that the lever on the calliper that the parking brake cable connects to siezes and so the brake doesn't release.
It is sometimes ...
6
They are typically on the same fuse. Charging outlet should be listed as a cigarette lighter.
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