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26

Keep the AC system in the car until you are ready to get it repaired. There's a load of parts to an AC system and some of them are hard to access, you are likely to spend much more in labor costs removing and then re-installing the system than any fuel savings from reduced weight.


9

Typically it's just a pollen filter that's more for occupants comfort. In older cars you would very occasionally get a dead bumble bee through a vent but I'd say that six days unfiltered shouldn't cause much of a problem for you.


6

Don't rip it out. In addition to what GdD said, some parts of the system, particularly the evaporator core, likely make up part of the seal between the engine compartment and the heating/AC ductwork. If you remove that you will have some work to do to ensure that you're not pulling fumes in to the cabin.


4

I'll assume you have a standard shift transmission. If this is the case, your problem lies with a bad clutch. You'll need to get it replaced to fix the issue. If this is an automatic transmission, you either have low fluid or your clutches/bands are fried, which would mean a replacement or rebuild.


4

Exide is simply a battery manufacturer. The Max, Matrix, and Express are just marketing names for some of their battery lines. The best battery to get is one that fits your car, and will last an appropriate length of time for the cost. If your battery is not being properly recharged, it's also possible that your alternator is bad, or is going bad. Both the ...


4

Those are misfire codes. You've likely got a problem with either the ignition or fuel delivery systems (or both). I would venture to propose that if you "know little about cars" then you are not equipped to diagnose issues with the coils, spark plugs, ignition wires, injectors, etc. Although I would not usually propose throwing parts at a problem without ...


4

Check for an inoperational EGR system Things like a stuck EGR valve or disconnected/damaged EGR hose could explain the sooty exhaust, fumes in the cabin and apparent stumbling. Exhaust Gas Recirculation acts by resending a portion of the exhaust gas back to the combustion chamber. If it is inactive there will be more soot in the exhaust. If there are ...


3

I suspect you have a bad earth / earthing problem. Get an assistant to tell you what the tail lights are doing when you brake with the stereo on. I think voltage is probably leaking back somewhere. First step is to check all of your earthing points. I have a similar issue on my Mk1 Golf at the moment; when it switch the headlights on, the temperature ...


3

P0300 is the trouble code for random/multiple misfires. P0302 is the trouble code for misfires in cylinder #2. Common causes for misfires are : Bad spark plugs. Remove them and inspect them. Replace them if necessary ($20 if you do it yourself). Tools needed: ratchet with various size sockets, spark plug socket, ratchet extension, spark plug gapper tool. ...


3

First of all before you start to turbo a 1.3 engine keep these things in mind. If you say your car is a 1.3 then I am almost certain its a family "commuter" car which was designed not to go like stink in the first place so there is pretty much a chance you cant fit some parts like the inter-cooler since the manufacturer wants to keep cost low while ...


3

A turbo whether petrol or diesel is basically an exhaust driven rotor which forces air into the engine. It won't be a problem to install a diesel turbo in a petrol engine. But there are problems! Engine has to be tuned properly ( there is a great difference in air pressure which the engine does no know ) The bearings on the turbo have to be lubricated. It ...


3

Don't drive it like that! Flashing CEL is a "misfire", and can cause damage. Regardless of what happened with the oil, a flashing check engine light (CEL) almost always means there is a problem with a cylinder firing (spark is not igniting the fuel). This also explains the hesitation, and lack of power. This is bad because the unburned fuel can travel ...


2

Your glow plugs may be bad. "Check Engine" light may also mean faulty glow plug (checked that on 2009 SEAT Ibiza with Ross Tech VAG COM). Faulty glow plugs may be the case, but you can tell that from the way your engine works. If upon start your engine is shaking (not working very stable) or your revs are a bit jumpy, then it may indicate that fuel in some ...


2

Not at all. The turbo doesn't know whether it's a diesel or petrol turbo. Just bear in mind that if you want to put a turbo on your car without doing lots of other modifications to your engine, you can't use much more boost than about 0.6 bar (I think that's about 8-10psi, but I could be wrong). The power gains would be minimal and you'd still need to have ...


2

This is normal behavior for some vehicles. They utilize the fan to further cool the system after engine shut down (even though it does not further circulate the coolant). This is something I would not be worried about.


2

There was a > 30 fuse blown. Replaced that and tightened battery connectors. Also fuse under the steering wheel was blown. Fixed that, and I had headlights. Battery seems to be charging now. Check your fuses, I checked them and missed some blown ones.


2

The brake light in the dash can come on if your brake reservoir is below where it should be. Check this, but before you do, double check to see if you need brakes. If you just pour brake fluid into your reservoir and need your brake pads replaced, you'll make a mess as you'll have too much fluid in. If you do need brake fluid, clean off the cap of the ...


2

It sounds like this could be a problem with the alternator. The alternator is what provides the electric to your car whilst it is running. If it is not functioning correctly then it will not have the power to run everything on the car, possibly why you say the stereo dies when you brake. The additional draw of power to the brake lights could bring the ...


2

It is recommended to also change the oil filter when changing the oil in any car. The diesel filter is also recommended, depending on the quality of fuel you use, it might be ok or clogging up already (especially that filters are not expensive).


2

Keep the system as intact as possible. Moisture is a big enemy for a lot of car systems and the A/C is no exception. Let's say you pulled out the heavy compressor and just left the lines open. Well, moist air is now going to fill the system and cause corrosion throughout the remainder of the system. If you still wanted to remove parts, capping of any open ...


1

The basic parts of a blower system are the: blower motor blower motor resistor fuse wiring/connectors Turning your fan switch all the way up should bypass the blower motor resistor, but as you have tried that and it still doesn't work it's unlikely to be the resistor, which leaves the other options. With the fuse, I'd replace it entirely and thoroughly ...


1

All engines will create some soot, but it is usually unnoticeable. Excessive soot, is an indication there is something wrong, especially on a new car. There are two likely causes for this. Un-burned fuel - there may be something wrong with the fuel injection system causing it to run very rich and the engine is not able to burn all the fuel going into it. ...


1

Faint, white smoke in the exhaust is oil. Your car is burning motor oil. Check the dipstick to see if the oil level is low. There are a couple of possible reasons why the car is burning oil, none of which can easily be corrected.


1

You have two issues that may or may not be related. Car doesn't start. This could be due to an empty or faulty battery, or a wiring problem. Do you have a multimeter? Check the battery voltage. If the battery is empty, this may be caused by a broken alternator, or maybe the battery is just end-of-life because it can't hold enough of a charge anymore. ...


1

The oil in the spark plug wells can absolutely cause misfires. Replace that valve cover gasket; my guess is it'll be problem solved. If not, no problem, it's certainly not wasted effort. Post back with your results!


1

Try this video. Basically, there's 2 screws on the sides at the back (you will need to slide your front seats forward and lean them) and a hidden clip at the front.


1

As stated in the other answer, the most likely cause is spark plugs ($15-$20 for a full set) or coils (about $20 each). A repair manual (Haynes or Chilton) that is specific to your vehicle will cost about $20-$30 and will tell you not only how to do this, but many other repair tasks that you are getting raped for at a mechanic shop, like changing the bulbs ...


1

Given the age of the question I am sure it has been resolved by now. But it sounds like a badly worn brake rotor and pads. It's not unusual for brake noises to be especially noisy when just the right amount of pressure is applied to the pedal, not too much, not too little. Once you unbolt a wheel from your car the disc brake assembly is right there in view, ...


1

I don't think the it will be a flat battery, since a flat battery will usually caused a repeated clicking of the starter solenoid and a flickering of the dash lights when you turn the key. Either the contacts on the relay you can hear clicking are faulty, so there is no power getting to the starter solenoid, or the control wire on the starter solenoid has ...


1

You indicated above that there is 'soft clicking' when you try and start the car. My bet is a weak battery - you can still have headlamp power, but not enough charge in the battery to turn over the engine. Try this, turn on the headlamps and have someone stand in front and observe the lights as you turn the key to start - if the headlamps dim way down, it'...


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