20

This sounds like the classic symptoms of a slipping clutch. The solution is to replace it or have it replaced. If it is a DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel - fitted to reduce vibration) type then it is usually a good idea to replace that as well at the same time. The minimum will be a centre or friction plate, but personally I will always fit a new pressure plate at ...


14

This sounds very much as though your clutch is slipping. Essentially, the clutch plates aren't making strong contact and slip against each other under hard acceleration. Under gentle acceleration there is less stress on the clutch and so slipping is less likely. It is not that you are losing power but that the power is being wasted. This can be caused by ...


9

There's 3 things you need to look at: the accelerator pedal itself the throttle cable the throttle body If you pop the hood, find your throttle body: it is between the air intake tube and the metal top part of the engine and has a half-wheel sticking out the front with 1 (no cruise control) or 2 (cruise control) cables attached to it. When you turn it by ...


8

It sounds like you have a motorcycle with a carburetor with gravity fed fuel line. (i.e. Without a fuel pump of any sort). In those conditions I can see that there is a higher fuel pressure at the inlet to the carburetor when the fuel tank is full. It's possible that when the tank is low the pressure is barely enough to meet fuel demand. With that said, ...


7

How is a 0-100 run done? The fewest number of gears possible will be used, because that's the fastest way to get to a given speed. Engines typically put out their highest power in a certain band of RPMs, so you will accelerate as much as you can in first gear (to the red-line, or to a certain RPM where you know the power starts to decrease), then shift to ...


7

This is a well-worded, interesting, and valuable question. Unfortunately, not among the "gung ho risk taking" mechanics, I would not even guess at an answer without seeing the problem firsthand. So my meta answer would be to duplicate the problem in a static situation (not moving/driving) -- perhaps by wiggling and pulling on the pedal into a position ...


7

My gut says it's likely to related to either a dodgy throttle position sensor or a faulty air mass meter. Whilst it is reporting no errors, it's worth doing diagnosis such as resetting the throttle position (sorry, I'm not sure how this is done on this car) and checking things like coolant temperatures reported by the ECU against guestimated values. If it ...


6

So I finally figured out the problem. First off I had a defective O2 / Lambda sensor, which I replaced. However, this had little or no noticeable effect on the problem. The valve cover gasket was completely shot, with oil constantly coming out and also leaking into the spark plug holes. I fixed the gasket, which also didn't solve the problem. However, ...


6

From your description, it sounds like there is an issue with the cruise control. If the cruise control "thought" you wanted to accelerate for whatever reason, it would do exactly as you stated and peg the gas to the floor. Then, when you apply the brakes, it would tell the cruise to shut down. I don't remember how the cruise is actuated on the LeBaron, but ...


6

Torque doesn't matter. It's power. The difference is that diesel engines have their peak power at lower RPM compared to petrol engines. Same power at lower RPM means more torque. (Think about: The motor of my car has max. torque of 95Nm. I torque the wheel lugs with 110Nm by hand. So why can the motor accelerate my car to 150km/h, while I can push it to ...


6

It is not strictly the increase in engine RPM that causes a vehicle to accelerate. Newton's 2nd law of motion states: In an inertial reference frame, the sum of the forces F on an object is equal to the mass m of that object multiplied by the acceleration a of the object: F = ma. In other words, the engine, via the transmission puts a force (in the form ...


5

Engines are designed to withstand a certain amount of stress. When you exceed that threshold, longevity will start to deteriorate. I stated something to that effect in this answer. The engine has a redline where you shouldn't take its speed past. This redline is not the maximum speed which the engine can run, but more correctly the threshold which you ...


5

Probably not. Engines are pretty tough. But pull a plug before you drive anymore and check for mechanical damage. Pistons hitting plugs would not be good. Also double check your plug wires and make sure you've got the firing order right and that all of the connections feel solid.


5

While I agree it is probably a slipping clutch, before I had the cluth and pressure plate replaced I think you would want to have the clutch pedal cable checked to see if it is mis-adjusted. In some cases the pedal play may be causing the clutch to be slightly engaged even when your foot is off the pedal. This adjustment should be very inexpensive if you ...


4

Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare) First of all check the carburettor. If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle. Check the ...


4

Unintended acceleration is a complex problem. It can be caused by hardware failures, software failures, the driver and at times even passengers. Driver panic is a real and common cause, it is challenging for the distracted, and then, surprised to brain to react quickly and properly. It is common for the driver to believe the brake is being to pressed with ...


4

Since this is a fuel-injected bike, this sounds like an air-fuel mixture problem. Air-fuel mixture problems arise when the mixture is either too lean or too rich. If bad enough, both can result in poor acceleration: In lean mixtures, there is too much air and/or too little fuel Typical causes for this include an intake leak which is allowing unmetered air,...


4

Each car is a bit different but the highest efficiency for automatic transmission acceleration is usually at the point before the the transmission decides to automatically downshift. The data you should look for is called "brake specific fuel consumption". This may be a broad generalization, but your highest efficiency for normal gasoline cars with ...


4

A flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire. Driving your car while misfiring for an extended period of time can cause damage to your catalytic converter, so try not do do that. Studdering/juddering or however you want to describe it is also a definite sign of a misfire. Suspecting the coil(s) or wires is good, and that should be your ...


4

My Honda did this, I found it was the floor mat getting jammed against the gas pedal. Other than this it could be: Worn out gas pedal cable, replace it. Extremely dirty throttle body that is sticking, in this case clean the throttle body with approved throttle body spray cleaner.


4

Don't worry about engine damage. The main difference between these 2 spark plugs is the length, the one you used is shorter. That means 2 things: the spark was not created in the best place, meaning you were not burning all your fuel. This is the lack of power you were feeling. there is no chance your pistons hit your spark plug since the plugs you used are ...


4

The EEC in most cars has a speed limiter function that cuts fuel delivery to the engine past a certain speed.


3

What is the most probable cause for this? In the most general terms, the engine isn't running because there is either too much air or too much fuel. Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months? Is it true that petrol may "become old" after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly? It is possible, especially if the fuel ...


3

Twisting the throttle opens the butterfly valve in the carburetor which allows it to suck in more air. With the increased air flow, the carb should also suck in more fuel. So, if enough fuel isn't supplied the engine can't handle the extra air. I don't know enough about your bike to offer a solution, but this is one possible cause.


3

If this is a carburated engine (not fuel injection) then it's likely that one or more of your carburettor jets is blocked or the diaphragm has a hole in it. Find a service manual for this motorcycle (there's probably a PDF of it somewhere on the internet) and follow the instructions for taking the top off the carb, you will need screwdrivers, small spanners ...


3

This may well be the smoking gun That "grommet" is actually a fuel injector seal. It is designed to keep air out and prevent fuel from escaping the intake manifold. If it is compromised then fuel can leak out, which will explain the presence of the dark stain. A quick way to confirm this would be to turn the key in the ignition to the 'On' position to ...


3

Can trouble codes P2138 & P2279 be related for a 2005 Honda Pilot? Yes, it would seem so. After replacing the Pedal Position Sensor both codes went away and have not come back. I ended up replacing the Pedal Position Sensor a few months back. Since then I noticed the car drives better and I have not seen any of the previous issues since. Replacing the ...


3

My first thought, having owned 3 Opels/Vauxhalls (including two Corsas), is the coil pack. When it starts to die, you get the symptoms you are describing. Your #2 cylinder's spark plug isn't firing properly, so under load conditions the spark may be too weak to ignite the air/fuel mix, causing a misfire. If I'm right, the problem should get progressively ...


3

Hard to say with the information given. Sounds like retarted timing or not enough air or fuel (too rich / lean) . A repair manual will be infinitely useful in testing/troubleshooting. Things to test: codes, even if the CEL isn't on there might be something stored. air filter spark plugs (clean, gapped correctly) wires cap rotor coil vacuum lines (check ...


3

I encountered a similar problem with my Honda D15 engine. The car would start fine when it was cold, but have trouble starting warm, stumble under acceleration and sputter/die at idle. I had also tried replacing the fuel filter, plugs, wires, and an o2 sensor to no avail. I then purchased a coil pack and distributor rotor/cap. I had just enough time to ...


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