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4

What you're describing sounds like the pulsing feedback that the ABS (antilock braking system) provides when it actuates on a slippery surfaces. The best way that I can describe it is as a roughness or rumble in the brake pedal, usually it is accompanied by a matching (for lack of a better word) sound. There may also be a annunciator light in the instrument ...


4

Sounds like a transmission related issue. I would take it back to the immediately if it wasn't doing that before they serviced it. I doubt anything they did caused the problem, but if it did the quicker you take it back the better. A slipping torque converter clutch would cause similar symptoms, which could be caused by a bad solenoid, bad torque converter, ...


4

If you have to replace both and you can only replace one now, replace the cam position sensor first. If it goes completely out, the car will not run. It may not run as good without the new hose, but it will still run. Something to think about, though, is that the hose really should not cost very much. Depending on which hose you need, it runs from (as of ...


4

First of all, no worries on the bad English side of things ... even those of us who speak it have issues sometimes! '-) As to your issue(s) ... the first thing I do when I've encountered a large number of codes as you've gotten is clear the computer, then rerun the engine to see which codes persist. This gets you a lot closer to the root cause of the issue. ...


3

This suggests that the handbrake cable has stretched or snapped. It needs replacing. The light is operated by a switch close to the handbrake lever so is independent to the cable issue.


3

The tune might reduce the severity of the problem, but it can't cheat physics. As explained in this answer, redlining while the engine is cold puts undue stresses on the engine that shortens its useful life. Since this is a turbocharged vehicle, the tune is increasing torque output by increasing boost pressure, which increases operating temperatures: ▲ ...


3

Rotor replacement is normally done when the rotor can no longer be resurfaced and still fall within the acceptable thickness range. The acceptable thickness range is based on stock brake pads though, so if you're using more aggressive aftermarket pads you may have to do replacement rotors sooner than is specified. That rust on the edge doesn't concern me ...


3

The only information that actually describes the changes technically is in this VW study material: http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/Docs/SSP/VWUSA.COM_SSP_436_2.0L_TFSI.pdf This information tells me the CDHA engine supercedes the CABA engine and has changes to: Bearing diameter reduced Modified piston Modified piston rings Different honing process ...


2

I've found the cause at the Audi dealership. It's an RPM sensor in the ABS system that was worn out and has been wearing out the wheel bearings as a result. The sensor has to be replaced, and most likely the bearings as well.


2

Its fine if you drive it, but you might want to get it fixed as soon as possible, because it decreases the power of your vehicle and it could possibly harm your engine.


2

You can try replacing the Engine Crank Angle Sensor, which I believe is the one which is playing erratic. The sensor looks like this: So it is the one you are looking at in the picture. Who knows why it's gone bad, but with the code you mentioned, this seems like the culprit. This is a very good video on the replacement of the sensor. The only thing I'd ...


2

That isn't mostly rust buildup. That is the edge of the rotor that your pads don't touch. If it feels raised then that just shows you how worn your rotor is. You do not always need to replace rotors with pads, but it looks like you'll be replacing them next time at the latest. I once had a rotor split while driving home from 6 hours away. When it cracked ...


2

The module in question is the body control module (BCM). The BCM is the electronic control unit that monitors and controls all of the systems in the car body. Electric windows,A/C functions, electric mirrors,electric locks,security systems, etc. It communicates with all the other modules via the cars vehicle bus. It drives all the relays the control all ...


1

For starters, cars don't lose all their coolant randomly. There is a reason and it sounds like you have a pretty good idea where the issue is already. It's either the water pump itself or one of the hoses connected to the water pump that is leaking. For a 16 year-old vehicle needing to replace either the water pump or hoses or both would not be unexpected....


1

If you are talking about the barely audible noise which occurs about 1/2 way through the video. You are slowly bringing the RPMs up past 1000. When you get it just above 1000 (probably like 1050), I hear a slight noise. This noise sounds like some kind of resonance whistle coming from the intake tract. To test this theory, take your air cleaner out and ...


1

An Audi scanner, VCDS from Ross-Tech.com, will show up any electronic faults on your AirCon. Time and time again though, the symptoms you describe can be put down to the AirCon thermostat.


1

You don't need to remove the switch to get rid of the warning, you just have to disconnect it. On some models A4 the detector is part of the latch mechanism, on others (depending on model year) it's on a separate push-in catch near the latch. You can see a cable going to it with a modular connector. Simply pull the connector apart and secure the ends so ...


1

It is very common on these models for the hood switch to fall out of the catch. If you look at the catch there will be a micro switch that will either be hanging by its wire or faulty. If it's come loose just reattach it, you'll have to remove the catch and slide the two 'nibs' on the switch into the holes on the rear of the catch. I'm not sure if you can ...


1

If your rotors' wear surfaces are still smooth & flat & true, then keep the rotors and replace the pads alone. The dealer wants to replace the rotors because doing so eliminates one potential source of liability for them - the more they replace, the less their potential liability. If the wear surfaces are NOT still good, then they should be measured ...


1

Replacing rotors or drums every other time you replace the pads/shoes is crazy. For most daily drivers, that would be every year or every 2 years. Unless the vehicle is being used for something like a delivery service (IE, LOTS of miles with TONS and TONS of stops), there is no reason not to expect 50K-100K or even more from a pair of even stock or OEM-...


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