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I would have an earth point on each side of the vehicle, which would reduce the number of wires on one point. I would also consider running a heavier gauge wire from the earth point into one of the l …

I would start by replacing the fuse with a bulb: an 21W indicator bulb is usually sufficient. Mount it so you can see it when working on the trailer. Then, in your case I would proceed as follows: 1 …

If the opening in the dash is sufficiently large, then it will be a straight swap, assuming that the wiring is "standard". Most ICE have adaptor harnesses available to match the ICE to a vehicle. …

Fuel and temperature gauges on old cars using variable resistance senders need a voltage stabiliser in the supply.

Well, if it was me, I would disconnect all of them and identify the supply wires for brakes, marker etc Then I would terminate all the wires with ring connectors and put them on the pins in order - w …

I would use the chassis for the ground and the added 4AWG (or larger) wire with a suitable fuse (with a switch if necessary) for the supply to the inverter or other high-load device.

That, as an earth or ground, should be sufficient as long as there is metal to metal contact, ie the paint is removed. Try testing a direct earth to the battery with a long cable, if there is no chang …

You need to know how the alternator is controlled - either its regulator will be internal or external - even included as part of the engine ecu. Easy enough to bench spin it with an electric motor and …

Need the diagram. But one method might be to put the warning light between the left and right indicator wires. A method used on many cars and the low power of the warning light (2W) compared to the 21 …

So you can use the existing wiring to drive a relay(s) fed via a fuse directly from the battery - a neat solution and no problems. …

Also, you can get some speaker wire directly from the radio to the speaker - if it works fine one possibility is the speaker wiring is damaged in the joint between car body and door. …

I would suggest that you should find the source of the fault - probably in the wiring as you suggest as it could get worse and cause a fire (not the best thing in dense traffic with no place to go). …

The ground wire will usually run from the battery to the chassis and then onto the engine. Some vehicles will do this with one single length - which is what yours sounds like and others will have sep …

Well, you could do, but the risk is that the ground is only large enough for the power socket capacity 5A or 10A. I, personally, would provide a ground to a suitable earth or ground point, even the s …

We used to use the "push button" from a Commer van connected to the battery plus and the starter solenoid... That was a Lucas part (Prince of Darkness... :)) and capable of supplying the older soleno …