Do you know what each gauge is rated at for current carrying capacity?  I would think a daisy chain is fine as long as the wire gauge is large enough. Don't neglect to use the same gauge of wire for both power(DC+) and ground.   I'd look at the specs for each display gauge, add a bit of safety margin, then add the current up and calculate the wire gauge based on current carrying capacity.  Shouldn't be a problem at all for those signals (Note in high tech digital communications devices I'd have separate grounds.. Not a big deal here.)


[![Daisy Chain wiring][1]][1]

This is pretty common.  There are [some who argue against it][2], but I think its fine in your case.  If you want you could add a junction box (terminal blocks) near the displays, then route one black and one red to the Junction box, and then separate to each gauge, but I don't think that really matters much. Generally access to the back of the panels in a boat is pretty easy (as compared to working in a car's instrument panel.)

[![terminal block][3]][3]

I will say, if you did add terminal blocks near the gauges, that would enable you to do almost all the wiring (and solder and heat shrink) work comfortably at your work bench instead of working in the boat in an uncomfortable position.  In this case you'd have two terminal blocks, one for 12V+ and one for Ground.  Then you'd have individual wires from the gauges to the terminal blocks. You would do the daisy chain at the terminal blocks, with only one wire each running back to the battery.


  [1]: https://i.sstatic.net/v6sPP.jpg
  [2]: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/257756-daisy-chain-question.html
  [3]: https://i.sstatic.net/5y0wF.jpg