enter image description hereenter image description hereI have a 04 Chevy venture. One day as I was rolling up my driver and passenger window from my driver side switch the driver window went all the way up but passenger stopped like 3 inches from closed. I tried to roll driver down from same switch and nothing but I was able to roll up passenger window from passenger switch. I have tried replacing the 30a fuse and that didn’t help. I realized if I had the driver switch disconnected then the passenger switch wouldn’t work. So I kept the driver switch plugged in and pass switch has worked for a few days and now it’s stopped working. The lock button on my driver side even stopped working for a little bit. Today I got new switches for both sides and still not working but now the lock switch on dr side door works again. How do I fix this issue

I don’t know if this info helps at all but my driver side mirror recently got damaged and the bottom of the mirror black housing is cracked off and the mirror isn’t in place.

I just got a used mirror and the switches today at my local junkyard. I haven’t been able to switch the mirrors out but I grabbed as many of the same 30a fuses I could out of some cars just to see if it’s the fuse and both switches won’t work after replacement of both the units and the fuse. The power lock switch did start working again

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    For future reference, the reason why the passenger side stopped working when you disconnected the driver's side is (at least on GM cars), the passenger side gets power from the driver's side. I don't know why GM did it this way, but they did. One of the poor side effects of this is the passenger side never gets full voltage, but rather whatever the driver's side gives it minus how much ever gets lost in the extra wiring going from one side of the car to the other. It works, but not what I'd call optimal. Commented Jun 18 at 10:35

1 Answer 1


You can stop changing fuses. I think you have a bad door ground, probably on the driver's side.

Some car doors are grounded through the hinge without a separate wire, and they depend on the tension of the spring in the hinge that holds the door partially open. If this spring is broken on your car, replace it.

Some cars have a separate ground wire that goes with the wiring harness in the door jamb near the hinge. This wire is attached to the metal inside the door and to the metal somewhere in the foot well. This ground wire can break from door movement or one end can become corroded or loose.

You can make a temporary ground connection to the door by using a jumper cable between bare metal inside the door and bare metal on the main body of the car. If your windows, locks, etc. start working correctly with the jumper in place, the bad ground is your problem. You can either find the bad wire or run a new wire with the wiring harness near the hinge.

Be sure to try the jumper cable trick on both doors to see if it makes any difference.

  • This sounds like the advice I’ve been given. Is there anyway I can talk with you and get some help on fixing it? I’m new to this site
    – Adam Hal
    Commented Jun 19 at 0:14
  • I added 2 photos of the wiring boot in the middle of my door hinges. Am I gonna have to cut that rubber boot thing off in order to find a kink in the ground?
    – Adam Hal
    Commented Jun 19 at 0:31
  • @AdamHal When you wish to direct a comment to a particular person here, type an at sign plus their name, and they will get notification. Talk? No, but you can make a comment and I'll see if I can answer. A dialog in comments that becomes too long will receive an offer to make it a chat, which takes the dialog out of public view but it is still readable by anyone. Suggest you not cut off the rubber boot thing, as it is providing protection to the wires. They are almost guaranteed to be damaged if left uncovered. Continued . . . .
    – MTA
    Commented Jun 19 at 2:36
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    @AdamHal Try the jumper cable thing before you do anything, there's no point fixing a ground that isn't broken. If you don't have jumper cables, any wire of about 12ga or heavier will work. You must get good solid contact with bare metal on both the door and body. If you don't have a multimeter yet, this might be a good time to get one. Even a cheap-o meter from that famous tool chain that sells questionable quality stuff (or even Wally World) will save a lot of time and effort in fixing wiring issues. At minimum you need to measure volts DC and ohms (resistance). Anything else is is a plus.
    – MTA
    Commented Jun 19 at 2:46
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    @AdamHal Anyone who haunts this stack can comment at any time and add their thoughts, so don't thing you're depending on me to get to the bottom of the problem. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here from all over the world, and it's a collaborative effort to solve automotive problems. (Cue the orchestra swell.)
    – MTA
    Commented Jun 19 at 2:51

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