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I have an only-2-year-old rear shock that is leaking a bit (KYB, surprisingly) and will be replacing the pair in the near future. I've read various related threads on forums and watched several YT videos and so understand this is a fairly straight-forward procedure, and luckily I have access to a two-post lift to help with process. Still, if anyone has some thoughts or tips or pitfall warnings, I'm all ears (except for the parts of me that aren't actually ears).

2 minor questions based on what I've read/watched: 1) it appears that supporting or lifting the rear axle is required; the two ways this was accomplished was a jack stand placed under rear differential, and another person used a ratcheting strap. Is either of these preferred (and why)? And is there a third alternative? 2) One of the vids listed silicon past as one of the supplies for the task...I think he used it for bushings, but it wasn't clear where or why?

Probably doesn't matter too much with regard to the general nature of my question, but this is on a 2007, V6, RWD, Limited, Toyota 4-Runner.

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    Thank you for including the year/make/model of the vehicle ... it definitely does matter in this instance.
    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 ♦
    Commented Aug 10, 2023 at 10:16

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Not sure why someone would use a ratchet strap to support or lift the rear end. That seems like a good way to get dead if it were to let go when you least expect it. As for lifting the rear end, the only reason you would worry about it is if you cannot physically get under the rear to get to the bottom shock mounts. If you are comfortable getting under the vehicle without it being on jack stands, I don't see why you'd need to. The bottom mount should be a bolt accessible right off of the rear end. The top mount should be accessed somewhere from the interior (may have to remove a panel to get to it). I've personally not worked on a 4Runner before, so I'm going off of the style of the rear shock. Obviously if you cannot physically fit under the vehicle, then you'll need to get it up in the air to get to the bottom bolt. The best method (without a car lift) to do this is by using a jack to lift and jack stands to support the vehicle while you do the work.

As for the silicon grease (or paste) ... the only reason I could see to use it is on the top mount on the rubber. This would only be used to help keep them from squeaking during operation of the vehicle. Realistically, you don't actually need it if the mounts are made of rubber. They rarely squeak. This doesn't mean you shouldn't use it, just it really doesn't need it. If the mounts are made of polyurethane, then you'd definitely want to include the silicon, because without the lubrication they tend to squeak a lot.

The only other thing I might consider is to put anti-seize on the lower mounting hardware. Nothing worse then when you (or the next person who takes it apart) finds the mounting bolt rust-welded into the sleeve at the bottom. Putting a liberal amount of anti-seize on the bolt will help prevent this.

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  • Thanks for your answer. I can't say for sure, but in looking at how the strap is used and thinking that I understand what might happen if ratchet gave way (or whatever) I'd say risk of death or injury is no more or less than if a floor jack used for same purpose gave out. But as you are a really smart guy/contributor here, take a look for yourself and see if you agree (strap stuff commences within a 10-15 seconds of where vid starts): youtu.be/NXeZ6ZgoJL8?t=153
    – AA040371
    Commented Aug 10, 2023 at 18:25
  • @Paulster2: "If the mounts are made of polyurethane..." That may have been why...I'll need to go find that particular vid and see if he was switching out rubber for PU bushings. I'll be sticking with rubber bushings that come with the (KYB again) shocks...unless someone here strongly suggests I look into PU instead.
    – AA040371
    Commented Aug 10, 2023 at 18:28
  • "...put anti-seize on the lower mounting hardware." Will do...I think I remember recently reading another of your comments elsewhere on site saying to keep torque the same despite use of A/S...correct (some have different opinion, as I remember)?
    – AA040371
    Commented Aug 10, 2023 at 18:31
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    @mblatz01 - Poly bushings really aren't needed. They are mostly used for performance applications. Some people put them in when stock rubber bushings (for whatever part of the suspension they are going into) are exorbitantly expensive compared to the poly. More than likely you'll have a lock nut on the bottom mount. Don't worry about torquing these, just tighten them up without overdoing it.
    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 ♦
    Commented Aug 10, 2023 at 20:01

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