1

I have a 2014 Ford Fiesta with a turbocharger engine, that needs to be replaced. Turbocharged engines for this year and model can be found for $2000, non turbocharged for $1000. Can turbo version be replaced with the cheaper, non-turbo engine?

4
  • It appears your Fiesta has three engine options, two of which are turbocharged (1.6L & 999cc). Do you know which engine it is? Jul 26, 2023 at 9:51
  • It's described as 1.0L ecoboost, so I guess that's the .999cc? Jul 26, 2023 at 12:34
  • Incidentally, what happened to your engine that you need to replace it entirely?
    – GdD
    Jul 26, 2023 at 18:53
  • It jumped time. It's a whole nightmare story. Bought used for the first time in my life, did so much to make sure it wouldn't be a disaster because I have an irrational fear of used cars. Within a month it blew the head gasket. And though we got it running after that, we knew it was probably doomed and within a few months the timing belt jumped and mechanics' opinion0s are that it's not rebuildable, or if it is, would cost hundreds just to find out, and it's almost certainly not. Jul 26, 2023 at 20:54

2 Answers 2

4

Both your 1.0L EcoBoost engine and the 1.6L naturally aspirated engine are part of the Sigma family of engines. Therefore the bolt pattern for the transmission should be the same and the 1.6L engine would bolt up to it. The problem with doing as you're suggesting is beyond the physical bolt up, though. There are many differences which would have to be accounted for:

  • Your engine is a 3-cylinder, turbocharged engine. The replacement you are looking at is a 4-cylinder, naturally aspirated. The exhaust system for this is going to be different and would require modification.
  • You'd need the ECU for the 4-cylinder so it would run.
  • The wiring harness is going to be different, so you'd need to change that.
  • Engine mounts are going to be different.
  • Most likely, the cooling system is different due to the larger displacement engine. This is going to require a different radiator.
  • There may be a difference in the amount of torque the transmission can handle, therefore it may also need to be changed or at a minimum modified to handle the torque of the 4-cyl engine.
  • If this is a manual shift transmission, you'll most likely need a new clutch and flywheel assembly due to different balancing between the two.

I'm sure there are other things which will need to be changed as well but I'm not considering. Due to this, the engine is only the tip of the iceberg when considering an engine swap. While the engine itself is one part, when you start adding in all of the other parts as well as the amount of money it would cost to have someone make the modifications (if you don't do the install yourself), you are looking far in excess of the $1000 difference you are trying to get away from paying. Nothing is cheap about swapping out engines as you are suggesting. To my line of thinking you're going to be much better off just paying the larger cost and getting an standard replacement for your old engine.

The only way I could see this as doing this viably is to find a wrecked Fiesta with the 1.6L engine in it which runs and is still complete. Getting the entire car would preclude you from the minor purchases which always straps the pocketbook. It would still probably cost you in excess of the $2k you are saying a replacement engine would cost, though.

4
  • 1
    In addition to this excellent answer I'd point out that you could reduce the value of the car if the ecoboost is more desirable.
    – GdD
    Jul 26, 2023 at 15:29
  • Thank you that's very good information. Jul 26, 2023 at 16:16
  • 1
    Also I didn't suggest that there is anything cheap about swapping engines. But what you're saying is that replacing the current engine with one of the same type, would probably be less expensive than replacing it with the "cheaper" $1000 engine, due to all the other changes that would need to be made. Jul 26, 2023 at 16:17
  • @user3752935 - That's EXACTLY what I'm saying. Jul 26, 2023 at 17:55
0

I agree with Paulster. I've done this type of engine swap. You can do it with canny selection of engine - my new engine + transmission mounts bolted right up to my OE mount positions, for instance.

However, in a 21st century car, you must understand that engine and transmission are tightly coupled electronically, and the engine is tightly coupled to its engine computer, the "smog controls", and even the exhaust system can differ (and they are part of the smog system because of the oxygen sensor(s) after the catalytic converters).

So it's no longer a matter of "swap long blocks and tune the carburetor" - now you must get all the systems to match up. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) must know what kind of engine it has, so it can use its lookup tables to know how much fuel to inject. The transmission is not mechanical anymore - the age of complex "valve bodies" (analog, hydraulic computers) are gone - the transmission is PCM controlled, so the PCM needs to know what it's dealing with.

The approach I used was to swap the entire powertrain including transmission and smog and computer stuff - from the MAF sensor to the post-catalytic converter oxygen sensor. From the radiator to the fuel pressure regulator. I dealt with a scrapyard who specialized in supplying engines for this type of conversion, so they knew exactly what to provide me - a fully dressed engine+tranny and miles of wire (or so it seemed). I swapped them as a unit, never detached engine from trans, never even drained the oil/trans fluid LOL.

Without such an experienced yard, I would want the whole donor car so when I discovered "Oh, I need that too", it's right there and I can just grab it, instead of a mad snipe hunt to scrap yards and dealers. I would not dispose of the donor car(cass) until the job was 100% finished and passed smog. Then the remains can be towed away on its own wheels (and I'd drop the old engine/tranny in there to dispose of it).

As far as smog, if the engine was sold in that same model of car, nothing special is needed except to change the hood sticker so the emissions diagram is correct. When you drop in alien engines (Camaro LT1/4L60 into Mercedes) then you need a one-time visit to a smog referee.

So anyway, that's to give you an idea of what a functional "engine change to a different type" entails in an OBD II world.

If I didn't want to deal with that, I'd stick with the same exact engine code (the 8th digit on your car's VIN) and same year or near - a competent scrapyard will know.

You must log in to answer this question.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged .