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I have a Honda Clarity 2018 PHEV non-touring. I was following the instructions given in this post, but after disconnecting the plug as discussed then reconnecting, my Driver Assistance modules all appear to be disabled. The errors shown on meter is as follows:

  • Lane Keeping Assist Problem
  • Road Departure Mitigation System Problem
  • Collision Mitigation System Problem
  • Adaptive Cruise Control Problem

ACC and LKAS are persistently lit in amber, and the CMS and RDMS lights are on on the bottom left. The buttons have no effect on these errors, and they cannot be cleared on the Info meter display.

I've cleaned the front camera and emblem, so I don't believe it to be a sensor issue, but I have noted a few times when I adjusted the front bumper the errors would go away but come back again soon after.

Any ideas?

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    I've never dealt with active lane assist before, but I understand if the sensors are off, they'll need to be recalibrated, which takes special tools. Also, have you looked at the error codes to see why all your dash lights are on? There's probably a clue there. Jul 24, 2023 at 23:18
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    Unfortunately, i don't own an OBD2 reader, and the head unit has a damaged touch digitizer (I'm still trying to figure out how to invoke the diag menu through ADB). By any chance, are the logs accessible from the Android side? I do have root and USB debugging is on, so I have shell access to the unit.
    – Arctiic
    Jul 25, 2023 at 1:50

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While not expert in touch screens, there may be a small possibility of screen damage sending erroneous signals that forces the computer to shut down, spaz out, generate one or more error codes that can mislead anyone 'not seeing the forest for the trees'. Sometimes it can be this simple or a little more complex like a bent or shorted pin when disconnecting/reconnecting multiple pin connectors. The trick here is having a large perspective while not trying to become immersed in minutiae that may mislead anyone unfamiliar with sophisticated electronics. I can describe at least two world class cluster ****s from so called electronic technicians unable to discern simple problems and went all out replacing everything including the kitchen sink while ignoring the obvious. Having a scan tool that does more than display error codes can help compared to digging into software and decoding lines. The aftermarket scan tools that mimic manufacturers scantools cost a little more than generic readers but worth their cost the first time a repair is made. Again using a scantool also requires understanding error codes and reading between the lines; errors that don't make sense but can hint of major issues not easily understood by the average diyer.

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    I get what you mean, I once had a computer workstation that was experiencing some obscure issues that didn't have any readily apparent cause or commonalities; it was only by pure chance that I eventually suspected an electrical issue of some sort, then proceeded to notice a single USB port on the chassis' front panel was shorting everything else. In this case, couldn't I disconnect the head unit to confirm or rule out electrical issue from it? I've never operated the vehicle with it disconnected before so I'm not sure if that will present any issues of its own, though?
    – Arctiic
    Aug 5, 2023 at 1:46
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    Presuming 'head unit' is the entertainment and/or main screen display for vehicle information and other functions, I cannot say for certainty if disconnecting it might help with diagnosing this problem. Was main battery power disconnected before disconnecting/reconnecting this unit to rule out less than graceful shutdown procedures when working with electronics? Subscribing to either Alldata.diy or Mitchell data will provide immediate online access to service manuals at reasonable cost.
    – F Dryer
    Aug 5, 2023 at 17:28

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