Scratch on aluminum trailer

Question

Is there anyway that I can make this scratch look less visible?

Answer 1

Metal Buffing/polishing can help a great deal and maybe fix it.

If that doesn't resolve it to your satisfaction, you can use very fine grit sandpaper (800-3000); anything more aggressive will probably be noticeable and actually make things worse. Going to finer grits will make it more shiny as well, so you might need to stop at a coarser grit to match existing shine or go to a slightly finer grit if 3000 doesn't get it close.

1. Wipe it down with a clean cloth and sand with 800 grit
2. Wipe it down with a clean cloth and sand with 1500 grit
3. Wipe it down with a clean cloth and sand with 3000 grit
4. Polish with aluminum polish
5. Buff with a clean cloth

Answer 2

Turtle Wax 53836 Hybrid Solutions Scratch Repair Kit

3-pk Squeegee

Using a squeegee, apply only the Clear-Coat Fill & Seal (from the Turtle Wax Kit) to the scratches. While it is still wet, remove any excess clear coat filler using a cloth dipped in acetone. Allow to dry and apply a second coat, if necessary, so that you cannot feel any scratches with your fingernail. If the end result is a bit too shinny, rub the scratches gently with a pencil eraser or #0000 steel wool.

Throughout the process, be precise enough to treat only the scratch. Avoid the idea that you will overlap the scratch with filler/rubbing and somehow "blend" into the surrounding area. In my experience, that method usually leads to an amateur result at best and a nasty mess at worst.

Answer 3

The only thing you can do is cover it up with a decal. It will be visible through paint. I hope you got insurance money because that looks to be a couple grand in damage.

Answer 4

I have fixed many scratches on aluminum trailers before. Brushed aluminum is challenging because you have to seamlessly match the "grain". If it's not brushed you have to seamlessly match the level of shine, which is extra hard on weathered aluminum.

If it's a very deep and long scratch, you can start with something aggressive like 80 grit sandpaper. I highly recommend using a mini non-orbital correction sander. Use very light pressure and overlap generously. The temptation is to just focus on the scratch. Don't. This will create a low spot that will be very noticeable. The more passes it takes to remove the scratch the more you have feather out the surrounding area. And if you don't overlap your passes you will create waves.

Once the scratch is completely gone, go over it with 320 grit. Pay particular attention to the angle of your sander and the primary direction of your sanding marks. You need to match the grain as closely as you can. Go slow for close/tight sanding marks. When you're positive there are no more marks left from the 80 grit, you can move on.

The next step depends on if it's brushed or polished smooth. For brushed/grain, you can use scotch brite by hand to feather/blend between sanded and not sanded. Although it seems counterintuitive, scotch brite gives aluminum kind of a dull gray finish. I suggest putting a 3" piece of 320 onto your scotch brite so you're still giving a bright grain look as you feather the area.

If it's not brushed, but polished smooth, you will want to continue using the sander well up to 3,000 grit. Then finish with a cutting compound and buff. How seamless the repair will be depends on how much you feather out your work. I didn't mean for this to be so long, hope this helps. Good luck.