Coil pack would be my first thought - You would usually get a misfire logged on the ECU but particularly in the earlier stages of failure you wouldn't always get the check engine light illuminated.
They are known failure points on these cars and loss of power with the juddering before it cuts out certainly fits the theory. It's not the only thing that can cause problems like this but given how common it is I think there's a good chance that's what's happened, certainly good enough that I'd start there.
The good news is that the part is relatively cheap and quite easy to change (if it took a competent mechanic more than 20 mins to do I'd be shocked!)
If you were going to try the change yourself the basic steps are:
Open the bonnet
Remove the engine cover. It's not the whole cover - there's a centre strip that usually has the logo on it that slides out to the right to reveal the coil pack.
Remove the coil pack connector - it should be on the right side and you might have to gently pry it off with a flat-headed screwdriver.
Undo the screws securing the coil pack (should be a pair of Torx T30 screws IIRC
Gently pry the coil pack up until you can pull it out by hand (you probably want a small crow bar for that - like a flat headed screw driver with an angled tip)
Insert the new coil pack and press it down until you hear a sort of "click"
Fix it in place using the Torx screws you removed earlier
Re-attach the connector (probably worth making sure connector is clean and free of dirt and debris)
Replace engine cover
Most of the time I'd say it's worth doing spark plugs at the same time (since removing the coil pack provides access to the plugs) but given you say you've already had them changed there's really no point here.