Having shelled out for a torque-wrench, there is insufficient space/clearance to use it on a K7M engine.

I have no workshop so am light on tools. I'm hoping the only answer is not "buy a suitably-sized torque-wrench".

I suppose I could find one to hire, but before I go down that route, is there perhaps an alternative? Perhaps a rule of thumb?

1 Answer 1


I watched a video of one guy doing the timing belt on a K7m engine. In it, he removed the tire and engine guard in the wheel well to gain access. I couldn't finish watching it to see how he torqued the bolt, but a long extension should get you access into the crank bolt. In your case, you need to torque it to 20 lb-ft, then another 100° of rotation. With an extension, there will be some flex while doing the 100° rotation. You need to know where you start and where your wrench stops at when at rest. When you stop turning your wrench, it will bounce back some, so to compensate you have to go past where it needs to stop, then let it settle to see where it bounces back to. Luckily you have a "+/- 5°" leniency where you can find the sweet spot without worry of going too much or too little. To get there, turn the wrench "a little past 90°" and you should be golden. You can also use a marker to put a small mark pointing up to the 12 o'clock position, then see where it is pointing to as you turn the bolt to get the final degreed torque. In either case, you'll want to ensure the engine will not turn to ensure the turning degree is as accurate as you can make it.

Note: I'm using the term "wrench" generically, meaning the device you are using to torque the bolt. This could be a breaker bar or a torque wrench capable of rendering degrees.

  • I'd like to see that video. I've removed the plastic wheel arch, which I suppose you could call an engine guard, and unfortunately the only access-holes it opens up in the frame are too high for the tensioner nut. I have approx 32mm between the car frame and the bolt over which the nut is threaded. My torque-wrench - prior to attaching a socket - is ... well here is a pic to show how the wrench without the socket takes up all the space. tempfile.io/en/3GgdYPzD9RHNSKz/preview
    – Jim
    Commented Jan 13, 2023 at 16:10
  • 1
    @Jim - youtu.be/BIssdLBqyJY Commented Jan 13, 2023 at 18:43
  • Ah. Yes, it looks like he doesn't torque the tensioner nut. Perhaps the tensioner is designed so that the nut does not need torquing, since you have to manually move the tensioiner-tooth up to the mark on the tensioner case. This is the second K7M timing-belt change video where I've seen the mech tighten the tensioner nut by hand and I saw no actual torque-wrench used. In fact the Gary de la Cruz video he says 'make sure its nice and tight'.... as he tightens it with a hand-spanner. youtube.com/watch?v=xBnl2gLhgTI skip to 14:32
    – Jim
    Commented Jan 14, 2023 at 5:51
  • @Paulster2 Just to be clear, this is not the crank-pulley bolt, I'm talking about, it's the tensioner nut.
    – Jim
    Commented Jan 16, 2023 at 10:18
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    @Jim - Thank you for clarifying, because no where in your question did you specify that and I assumed that's what you were talking about. In the case of the tensioner bolt, don't worry about torquing it to any given spec. You'll have to do that one by feel. The only advice I can give you is tighten it until it's tight. The tensioner bolt is not something which has a critical torque to it like the crankshaft bolt. It does have to be tight enough to hold things in place, though. Commented Jan 16, 2023 at 13:14

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