The lower engine mount on my honda civic is bent over the bolt. This prevents me from getting a ratchet over the bolt. A wrench fits but there's not enough room to turn. How do I straighten the bracket so I can remove the bolt. Yes the car was in a front end collision. Here's a picture. Bolt is 14 mm.

enter image description here

  • 1
    Its quite difficult to interpret the picture. Do you have a clearer one?
    – Martin
    Sep 15, 2022 at 12:50
  • A big friggin hammer? More seriously, can't you get a socket on it?
    – GdD
    Sep 15, 2022 at 12:59
  • No, I can't get a socket over it. I can barely get a small screw driver between the bolt & mount.
    – grimview
    Sep 15, 2022 at 13:14
  • Gonna have to hammer that back, large punch or chisel and whale on it. Alternately gripping it with something that can grab the edge of the metal and bend it like very large voice grips, pliers, adjustable wrench etc
    – Chris
    Sep 15, 2022 at 13:24
  • How about taking a better photo. All I can see is a blur...
    – jwh20
    Sep 15, 2022 at 14:20

2 Answers 2


You need to un-bend or cut-away whatever is blocking access to the bolt. Not only do you need to get the bolt out but you'll (I assume) need to put a new one back in after you do whatever repair you're planning on.

Things that come to mind:

  1. Sledgehammer
  2. Pry bar
  3. "Flame Wrench" (a.k.a. cutting torch)
  4. Plasma cutter
  5. Angle grinder

Using one of more of these items will almost certainly get your bolt freed up.

  • An angle grinder too, if you can maneuver it in.
    – GdD
    Sep 15, 2022 at 15:35
  • Good catch! Added that one too. I can't believe I missed that one...
    – jwh20
    Sep 15, 2022 at 15:40
  • I'm disappointed in you @jwh20.
    – GdD
    Sep 15, 2022 at 15:41
  • "Hanging head in shame!"
    – jwh20
    Sep 15, 2022 at 15:55
  • I like your 'flame wrench'
    – GdD
    Sep 15, 2022 at 16:09

Hold on. How did the builder build it?

Of course we can tell you how to destroy stuff and weaken the car. However, you have to admit this: Honda built the car somehow.

Or to be more precise, the manufacturer publishes a shop manual meant to tell dealer technicians how to repair the car. I've owned that shop manual for every car I've ever owned (and also for a donor car I pulled an LT1 engine out of). That manual absolutely will have a procedure for this task.

Follow the factory procedure for this repair.

Use specialty wrenches to get onto that bolt.

The first thing that comes to mind is an "offset box-end wrench". If clearance is a problem, one option is to get a cheap one and modify it into the tool you need.

After that, I'd look at a "flexible offset deep crowsfoot" socket. Usually found in flare wrench form (intended for oxygen sensors and the like), but the general idea is a hex, an offset and a socket drive.

Evaluate the car for structural damage.

It's vital in a crash damaged car to evaluate the car's structural damage to see if it is even safe to continue driving. You don't want a situation where you hit a pothole, or emergency brake to avoid an accident, and a catastrophic structural failure happens, causing loss of control of the vehicle or even a rollover.

Further, crush body damage may cause mispositioning of components, causing accelerated wear on parts, again leading to either high maintenance or a catastrophic failure. Lastly, crush damage expends some of the crush protection, so it will not protect you as well in an accident. Collision protection is ablative, it's meant to destroy the frame to save you. Frames are cheap, you're not. (Well you might be, but you're not cheap to replace).

Often it's better to find a vehicle of the same model and year that suffered a mechanical breakdown or a smog fail, and restore it using the good mechanicals out of the wreck-damaged car. At that point you are free to just trash any damaged parts on the soon-to-be-scrapper.

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