I'm troubleshooting my 2005 CRV - not starting. I had replaced the fuel sending unit as it was dead. The new one spun up and I put the fuel pump assembly back in. I understand the pressure should be around 50-60psi or so. The CRV cranked over, but still did not ignite. I manually applied 12V to the fuel pump assembly and gasoline came out of the spout. I could put my finger over it and there was not much pressure, definitely not 50-60 psi.
My question is - is this low pressure from the fuel pump correct? If so, there must be a fuel pressure booster unit in line somewhere else?
Can someone shed some light on this?
CRV cranks, but no ignition - on to more testing...!
EDITS AND MORE TESTING:
- I used a separate 12V battery and applied it to the fuel pump module - only produced a small low pressure stream.
- I pulled the assembly out and removed the fuel pump and tested it on a water bucket and it spit out water at a high velocity and it was difficult to plug it by hand.
- Put it back into the assembly and into a bucket of water and applied 12V to the assembly, and got a low pressure stream again...
- Then I took the pump out of the assembly to test for resistance in the pathway. Sucked on the discharge and could feel a definite high amount of resistance.
- Unfortunately the pathway goes into the assembly in a section where it cannot be taken apart (plastic welds) so I think over the 15 years, there may have been some build-up in the pathway....? That's the only thing I can think of.
- I may be resigned to buying a whole new assembly instead of just this way of replacing only the pump...ugh.
- Any of you have the experience where it's the assembly and NOT the pump motor that causes a blockage? The filter attached to the pump was fine. Also tried it without the filter and the same results.
- In case anyone is reading further, I could not get the expected pressure coming out of the assembly and I ended up buying a pre-assembled unit with the housing, float, and fuel sending pump. Installed it and worked like a charm. Still cannot figure out why my original repaired unit was not delivering as expected - only thing I can think of is some obstruction due to build-up in the delivery pathways. I may try to blow air through it in the future when I have more time.
- If you are testing for voltage at the cable/connector end from the vehicle, there is something you should know - when you turn the key to the ON position (without cranking), voltage is applied to the connector for just a few seconds, then disengages. I got fooled at first because I was only one person troubleshooting this and not quite familiar with the logic of all this. So when I to check the voltage, it was already off, which makes you think there is a continuity problem - so you check the fuse, pump relay, main relay and get confused, because they are all good - which means you should get voltage.
- However, when I extended the meter leads so I could see it while sitting in the driver's seat, I noticed turning the key to the ON position gave temporary voltage to the pump assembly, then shut off. The cranking the engine gave a continuous voltage to the assembly as long as you cranked the engine.
- Hence, that is when I understood the assembly was getting the voltage it needed, but perhaps no fuel was being delivered.
- Being by myself, it was difficult to try to hear or feel the pump at the back of the car, so that is when I decided to take a spare battery and apply voltage directly to the pump assembly terminals - which resulted in NOTHING! So you would conclude a fuel pump problem and you either replace the whole unit or just the sending unit.