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I've got an almost completely rebuilt 2002 Ford Focus 2.0L Split Port Engine and its got a knock. I'm having a hard time figuring out if its valve knock or rod knock.

To add some background, I had the valve seat in #4 drop when the engine was at idle. The work I've done to it is as follows:

  1. Block machined and #4 sleeved to standard (Completed by an engine machine shop)
  2. 1 new connecting rod
  3. 4 new pistons, wrist pins and rings (Wrist pins pressed in by engine machine shop)
  4. New rod and main bearings
  5. Complete new timing kit (tensioner, water pump and belt)
  6. New cylinder head with original valves lapped to the new head
  7. New lifters
  8. Complete new upper and lower seals and gaskets
  9. New spark plugs and ignition wires

The only original parts left in the engine are: 3 out of 4 connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft, valves, rockers, valve springs, oil pump, timing gears, and all the sensors.

Also there is no codes related to the issue so its mostly likely a mechanical issue.

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    Sounds like you covered most everything. Did you inspect the connecting rods' connection to the crankshaft on the ones you didn't replace? Clearences, etc.? Nov 9 '20 at 20:10
  • Use a listening stick or stethoscope to locate the area of the noise... Takes skill & practice.
    – Solar Mike
    Nov 10 '20 at 10:00
  • Did you install the crank bearings yourself? If so, did you use plastigauge and check clearances? Did you use assembly lube for the initial startup? Listen to some videos of rod knock - It's fairly easy to identify. Nov 10 '20 at 17:31
  • I did measure all the journals on the crank and did the math for the clearances. Everything checked out that way. I never knew about plastigauge. (i just looked it up) I am going to go through the bottom end again with it and double check. Wish I knew about it earlier. I do have a feeler gauge set but of course its almost impossible to use in this application. Nov 10 '20 at 20:12

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