TLDR: To do it right and not have to do it again in a month (or possibly right after start up), the only way to fix this is to either pull the crankshaft and have it turned, as well as check the connecting rod, or replace the engine (might make more economic sense to do this, depending on the engine).
There's a whole other part to this nobody here is seeming to understand or is communicating. There are two parts to what you're looking at: the crankshaft and the rod (not to mention the bearing itself). When you spin the bearing, there has to be an issue with either (or both) the crankshaft journal and/or the big end on the connecting rod. If there is too much friction on the crankshaft journal, it can grab the bearing and spin it, which damages both the journal on the crankshaft as well as the big end of the connecting rod. If a bolt stretches too far on the rod, or it gets out of shape, it can allow the bearing to spin, which damages both the journal on the crankshaft as well as the big end of the connecting rod.
Many engines use multi-layered bearings (not knowing your engine, I wouldn't know ... newer engines use solid aluminum bearings). The backing on multi-layered bearings (the part which faces the connecting rod) is steel. If this spins inside of the connecting rod, it will cause damage. You have to have the connecting rod inspected to ensure it isn't out of round or beyond tolerance. If you don't, the same thing will happen to you.
As someone else alluded to here ... you can either do it right, or you can do it again. If you expect the engine to last longer than a few miles down the road, you need to take things out and have them inspected and machined.