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I am in the process of restoring a Mitsubishi GTO, who's brake lines have rusted. I'll be using NiCoper lines, replacing the Master Cylinder, removing the ABS modulator (also rusted and can't find a new one anymore) and possibly the Vacuum booster.

The car originally had 4 lines coming out of the ABS modulator, one to each brake caliper.

I'm thinking of buying a proportioning valve that isn't OEM (the OEM has 4 lines, one for each caliper), such as the Wildwood tandem kit, which has two lines for the front, and only one for the rear, after the adjustable proportion valve.

Should I just run one line to the rear, and use a "T" at the end to go to each caliper? Or should I run two lines using the "T" from the proportion valve?

How any of those chances will affect braking, considering that the OEM has 4 lines (even the non-ABS OEM has 4 lines going to the rear). I can't use an adjustable proportion valve for the rear brakes with the OEM, as I'd need two valves, one for each brake, and then I doubt I'd be able to match the pressure of rear right and rear left if I took that approach.

  • What are you trying to achieve? Why not just replace the lines? – GdD Apr 27 at 21:02
  • Are you meaning a load sensing valve? – Solar Mike Apr 27 at 21:18
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    I have never run 2 lines, run one to the back of the car and Tee it at the rear axle. – Moab Apr 27 at 22:23
  • Replacing the lines is happening regardless. I also need to replace the proportion valve, which is rusted. The abs modulator is also being taken off. So there's an opportunity to add a new proportion valve that is adjustable, as in biasing front to rear brakes. The problem is that removes the OEM two lines rear because nearly all of those valves have one rear outlet and one or two front outlets. The oem nom-adjustable proportion valve has 4 outlets each for a wheel, of two closed loops. – Ælex Apr 27 at 22:38
  • @SolarMike no, an adjustable proportion valve that has an adjuster to control rear brake bias to that of the front ones. – Ælex Apr 27 at 22:39

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