The car runs fine otherwise, just shutters and dies if the A/C is on and I'm idling. I put in new plugs and a purge valve, but the check engine light keeps going on and off over the past year. I replaced the purge valve a year ago and the spark plugs last month, the light went off for a few days after the valve was changed then it came back on, but then went off over the winter, then came back on a few months ago. I don't have an IAC valve for my model. She runs fine while going 40 or so with the A/C on. but as soon as I get to a light, within seconds she shutters and dies. She'll start right up as long as I turn the A/C off. The belt if fine too.
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Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! What codes are occuring?– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 ♦Commented Apr 22, 2020 at 11:07
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@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 ask if the OBD2 (elm interface) scanner has been used to know the codes set by car. There seems some electric issue with the car.– user30612Commented Apr 22, 2020 at 17:32
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More than likely the intake throttle body needs a good cleaning.– MoabCommented Apr 22, 2020 at 18:01
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Lana were you ever able to get this problem solved? I have the same exact model and the same exact issue and I've got nothing. Spark plugs replaced, purge valve replaced twice. And still nothing.– Aiden PollardCommented Mar 9 at 22:45
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I sold the car 3 years ago, but all I can remember is one mechanic told me he'd seen other 2016 Accents have the same problem. I guess the engine or whatever just wasn't built to handle a/c. Thanks for checking back.– LanaCommented Mar 11 at 10:33
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1 Answer
Please use the OBD2 scanner to know the DTC codes, if any being set by the car ECM and you are seeing a check engine light.
There are probably two technical aspects in case any car behaves like that; mechanical and electrical.
It would be easy to answer, if you could use OBD2 scanner available on the market (online) and tell us the DTC Codes set by your car ECM/ECU.
By the meantime, it seems your car engine is not able to bear the load of your AC compressor. As soon as you switch on the AC, the clutch in the compressor gear and pulley is engaged with the crank pulley. The compressor mechanically compresses the refrigerant. But sometimes compressor, the heart of any HVAC system fails to function properly and it generates lot much load on the car engine, so it stops at idling RPM.
The "divide and rule" is also a good tactic to pin-point the car issues. It reduces the pain of troubleshooting the car problems the like you are facing.
If you are a technically inclined do-it-yourselfer, temporarily remove the car AC belt and check if the car stops or not when you switch on the AC system. If not, then the problem is certainly with the AC compressor and/or the tensioner.
Nonetheless, if engine stops the same way after removal of the belt too, there might be some other electrical or sensor issues out there. So, the OBD2 scan results are needed for better diagnosis.
P.S. Please apply the general mantra of "safety first", all the time you do such test experiments !!
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The codes that my mechanic got were to do with "Evaporative Emissions canister, purge valve and solenoid". At least that's what he wrote down for me.– LanaCommented Apr 24, 2020 at 1:19
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newparts.com/articles/5-signs-of-a-failing-canister-purge-valve Commented Apr 24, 2020 at 7:13
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Also with the hose disconnected from the purge valve while the car is running put your finger over the nipple of the valve, you will feel vacuum. If you do the valve is bad. Commented Apr 24, 2020 at 7:16
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