Okay, so I drive a 13 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T. Last night my check engine light came on. I took it to advance auto today to have the code read. It threw a bunch of codes which were Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/Performance, Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Low, ECM/PCM Internal Eng Off Timer Perf, Clutch Switch Input Circuit, and Warning Lamp Failure. They checked the battery and it had gone bad. On my way to advance the car started acting weird. I was driving when all of a sudden it seemed to have lost acceleration. It was just slowing down. When i parked it, it was idling weird. I turned the car off, and started it again without a problem and would drive normally again for a little while. I had the battery replaced, but it still seems to be doing it. Anyone have any ideas on whats going on?

  • Given that the battery was just replaced, maybe check the battery and make sure it's charged and that the terminals are securely connected. It might be a loose grounding wire or something similar. Feb 7, 2020 at 20:04
  • You could have faulty diodes in the alternator which is causing a lot of ripple on the electrical supply. The ripple could cause the ECUs to behave strangely. It could also cause the battery to fail. This is just a guess, but is worth checking.
    – HandyHowie
    Feb 7, 2020 at 20:07
  • I did not have the codes cleared (didnt think about it) and read that those codes could make your car do that as a safety measure? Should i try clearing them? Feb 7, 2020 at 20:16
  • 3
    @CharlesBillings worth a shot. Make sure you have them documented so you know what to check if it doesnt resolve, and so you can compare codes if it starts kicking them again. Feb 7, 2020 at 23:03

1 Answer 1


Checking Alternator output and Alternating Current on the line can be a great help. Low Alternator output can be caused by bad Diodes and can allow AC voltage to confuse processors and generate random codes.One quick test would be to feel the alternator when cold, if Diodes are passing current the alternator will be warm, the all inclusive test would be to have the Alt Output checked with a Digital Storage Oscilloscope and Load tester.

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