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currently troubleshooting 1999 Toyota Camry V6 automatic transmission ignition switch / ignition cylinder issue.

Specific Problems:

a. Opened driver door with the key out of the ignition (assuming the key was in LOCK position)opening my door a chiming went off. I latered realized i had the key in the ACC position and when i tried to depress the key to the OFF position, i was met with resistance and ultimately could not. I am able to turn on the car but i realized that my key is can easily come out of the ignition when it is on ACC and ON/START while the car is on as well -- YIKES

b. while noticing problem a, I attempted to automatically lock the doors (with driver door open) and locks automatically unlocked immediately.

c. assuming lock and chime would work correctly if i closed door and manually locked door from outside, i did just that and realized that the chime DID STOP and the 4 doors did lock after manually locking the driver door from the outside. HOWEVER, i noticed that my CLOCK was ON. Did not think this would be an issue but it ended up draining my battery (older battery that needed replacing anyway but still) and im assuming it was the Clock that expedited the battery drainage.

** To Clarify, The CAR IS ABLE TO TURN ON JUST FINE **

What I tried so far:

  1. Blew compressed air in key hole, cleaned main key with FOB (evidently bent but still works), after poured nail polish remover and quickly inserted into key hole while moving it left and right, and inserting and removing too.

  2. removed the ignition lock cylinder/tumbler assembly(not cylinder switch that is behind it/separate module with a black blade like male component potruding out of it) to see it it was dirty or damaged and it looked fine, i noticed the black blade and with some pliers i tested turning the car on (Worked) and turning the car OFF/LOCK (did not move pass ACC)

  3. i tried replacing the tumbler assembly with this part by following this youtube video, and still the same issue except this time, the keys that came with this new Locksmart ignition lock cylinder, could not be removed from the ACC and START/ON position.

additional info -- i did realize that when i removed the tumbler assembly, i was able to lock the doors fine even when the driver door was opened (1/2 issue solved, YAY !!)

Anyways, my questions to you are:

  1. What in the world is that male black blade like component protruding out of the ignition switch module (im assuming it attaches to the female slit of the tumbler assembly)

  2. why is that blade thingy NOT turning with my pliers firmly grasped even when i removed the tumbler assembly?

  3. What suggestions or solutions should i try next ?

can you please be as detailed as possible (I am just a layman) because on top of fixing the issue i want to know the science behind why something like this would occur.

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    Welcome to StackOverflow. This is an awesome question. You explained what happened, what you tried, and what you are asking. – Atticus Denewmont Nov 14 at 17:26
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    Thank you, at the end of the day, we are all trying to help each other out ! – Alyosha_Karamazov Nov 19 at 3:31
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The "Blade Thingy" is pretty much just that a flat blade that connects the ignition switch and wheel lock with the ignition lock cylinder. When you turn your key in the lock-cylinder it turns this actuator that then turns the ignition switch. You probably can not turn it with your pliers because your just not doing it right. Try grabbing it, pushing in and then turning at the same time.

Since you have replaced the lock cylinder then there are a few things that are likely causing your switch to not turn all the way back to off when the lock cylinder is installed.

  1. The actuator aka blade thingy is slightly bent in the clockwise direction. Try taking your pliers and twisting it back a little (counter clockwise)
  2. The actuator has worn out the slot it connects to in the ignition switch. If this is the case then just replace the ignition switch.
  3. The ignition switch is bad internally. Try unhooking your cars battery and see if it turns off then.
  4. Bad parking sensor in shiftier.

Here is a sad little doodle I did of the lock housing since many people get confused with ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch. doodle

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    Im sorry but I don't have enough reputation points to upvote your answer...So I think it is either: 1. a bad ignition switch. 2. faulty wires or 3. bad solenoid attached to the switch because when I unplugged the battery, I was able to turn the key to the OFF Position – Alyosha_Karamazov Nov 19 at 3:34
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    No worries on that, Just hoping you get it fixed. Definently sounds like bad switch or solenoid for the park/neutral switch then with your last test. Thanks for the update. – narkeleptk Nov 19 at 4:30

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