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So I’m no expert but I can usually pinball my way around most jobs from a few YouTube videos and internet research. So the other day I set out to figure out why I was not getting voltage for the right trailer turn signal at the receptacle on the bumper. This was just supposed to be an easy job but I made some mistakes and could have swore I checked all the fuses, but of course it just ended up being a blown fused the end.

So anyway after pulling the top of the fuse box off and finding the actual wire for the turn signal and following its pins directly to the blown fuse I went to put it all back together. After reconnecting everything I went to start it and found that all the interior lights/functions i.e. radio, AC ext.. came on, but when you turned the key further to crank it, nothing would happen, mind you the truck had been running fine the day before.

So this is where I’m at right now. The starter relay clicks when the key is turned. Also to rule out the relay I swapped it out with the other 4 of the same kind of relay in the fuse box and it didn’t make a difference. I also know the starter is good because I made a jumper cable out of a small length of wire to bypass the starter relay. When I did that the starter spun and turned the engine over just fine, but it would not fire even when the key was turned.

To me I have to assume that somehow I dampened or provoked something to fail while I was messing around with the other issue, and making/breaking all those electrical connections, but I’ve triple checked everything, and can’t find anything visually out of order. To me it’s seems like it has to be some kind of electrical ignition issue since I know everything is working, and I’ve even bypassed it to turn over, but it still won’t start.

Like I said before I’m no expert on this, but I used to work on fighter jets in the Air Force, so I’m pretty mechanically inclined, and for the most part I know electrical repair, but when it comes to vehicles I’m just not that knowledgeable about them. If you guys have any advise or tips it would be greatly appreciated.

  • Please format this block of text, using paragraphs etc as it is hard to read. – Solar Mike Oct 6 '19 at 7:24
  • Best guess is that you have disturbed a connection in the fuse box for the starter relay / circuit. – Solar Mike Oct 6 '19 at 7:25
  • Yeah sorry, I typed it out in paragraphs but it somehow blocked it all together when I submitted it. – Jack Scheid Oct 6 '19 at 7:34
  • So edit it, you need two carriage returns for a new paragraph. – Solar Mike Oct 6 '19 at 7:43
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Assuming you've double checked all fuses for continuity, and you're confident that no pins or wires were harmed over the course of your blinker diagnosis, we'll start simple and go from there.

  1. You said your dash lights are functioning at the key-on position, which is a good sign. Do you also hear the Fuel Pump priming? if not, do you see a red or yellow 'Security' Indicator anywhere on the dash? If so, your truck may be immobilized by the anti-theft security system. Even if the pump is priming the immobilizer will prevent ignition signals from reaching the PCB. Based on my research, performing the security reset procedure is affective 50% of the time.

I. Leave key in on position for approximately 10-12 minutes until 'Security' Indicator disappears.

II. Turn key to off position for 20 seconds

III. Repeat steps one and two several times

IV. Removing key and attempt to lock/unlock doors using fob

V. Insert key and attempt to start the vehicle

  1. Disconnect both battery terminals and touch them together for 10 minutes (zip-tie). This will discharge everything is the system, and theoretically reset the security system. This appears to have limited success.

  2. Go over as much of the wiring as you can looking for issues. Depending on where you live, corrosion can be an issue on the PCB.

NOTE: I will continue to edit this as new information and ideas unfold. I will delete this if someone provides a working solution.

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    Good advice but when programming and switching the KEY OFF do not wait 20 seconds, just switch off and then switch back on for the next 10 minutes. You need to do it a total of 3 times. on 10min, off, on 10min, off, on 10min, off, done. The theft light on this car is a little padlock symbol and normal operation is: with key on (no crank) light comes on and cuts off= key programmed. If light flashes then key should be programmed again, if light is solid then there is an issue with communication between immo module and pcm. – narkeleptk Oct 6 '19 at 12:00
  • Also keep in mind, this programming only works on US models. – narkeleptk Oct 6 '19 at 12:07
  • I won't lie, I'm learning most of this stuff as I go on a case by case basis. My mechanical experience has primarily been limited to small engine repair (lawnmowers, weed eaters, blowers, etc.), Complete motorcycle tear downs / rebuilds, and a few major repairs on a handful of 2001 and older vehicles. Plus a few wrench hours on my neighbor's 2012 Jetta. It wasn't until 6 months ago, when my girlfriend's 2007 Dodge Caliber began falling apart at 76k miles that I became baptized in modern automotive repair. And honestly, I often wonder if basket weaving would have been a smarter hobby choice :) – Josh Campbell Oct 6 '19 at 12:49
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    Are you sure you meant "immortalized"? – Solar Mike Oct 6 '19 at 14:51
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    No worries I was just trying to help out a little not knock on you. Its good advice and common that these models immobilizer system gets corrupted from poor/disconnected battery terminals. – narkeleptk Oct 6 '19 at 14:52

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