Problems with Power Door Locks

Question

I have a 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 95k miles. About 2 years ago, I began having periodic trouble with the rear driver's side door lock. All other doors would lock/unlock with the power locks just fine except for that one. A few weeks ago, I began having intermittent problems with the rear passenger side lock. Now, the front driver's side lock has stopped working as well.

I also notice that when I accelerate from a stop (like at a stop sign or red light) I hear the power locks attempt to lock the doors in the same way it would when you first start the car. It does this even though I have manually locked all of the doors.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any idea what could be causing this? Is it possible this is something as simple as a fuse? Or does it sound like a more expensive problem? Any idea how expensive?

Answer 1

I don't think it's necessarily a wiring problem. Here are my thoughts, having just rebuilt two door lock actuators in one of my vehicles:

First - the rear driver side door sounds like the door lock actuator motor is dead.

Second - the other issues may or may not be related to the actuators. Can you answer this, do the intermittent problems happen only when using the keyfob? i.e. If using the key to lock/unlock works, and the interior manual locks work, and the interior switches work - then you just need a new battery for the fob. Otherwise it may be a door lock actuator - start at the driver's door, as sometimes the others are dependant upon this actuator.

Third - with the locks activating while driving, this could be due to a broken or disconnected rod that connects to the actuator. The door lock actuator is usually connected to some rods/cables that run to the interior and exterior handles and locks. If one of these rods comes out of place, as your driving it may be bouncing around causing the lock to trigger (it thinks the key is being turned or the interior manual lock is being switched). Again, I would look first at the driver's door for this one, but the front passenger's door might also do this. The rear doors don't usually have provisions to lock the other doors, and the wording of your original question made me thinkg it was all the doors that would lock/unlock while driving.

I would start by pulling off the door panels and just looking at the door lock actuators. Is there a rod or cable hanging loose? Trace the rods/cables back - is everything connected at the other end? If so, then it may be a wiring issue.

While you have the panels off, try the interior switches, exterior (key) lock (have a partner do this while you look at each door), and interior manual locks for each door. Does the actuator move with all these events? If not the actuator motor is probably bad.

Do some research online - you may be able to replace just the motor for less than $20. You may have to replace the whole actuator at around ≈$120±20.

To have a shop replace the door lock actuator, probably 2-3hrs billable at ≈$100/hr plus parts, so probably somewhere around $320-420/door.

Answer 2

I am pretty sure this is a wire problem. Open the door and check the cable between door and middle pillar. If everything is fine, check the door lock engine. For example replace it between the right and the left door. If the engine is also fine, I would just bridge the wires with some other door.

Answer 3

I have a 2008 Honda CRV. My problems started with a buzzing on the front passenger actuator. Honda dealer would fix for $280. I found the actuator on Amazon for $42. Decided to do it myself. Swapped out the actuator. The door locked and unlocked with no buzzing. However, another problem cropped up; I could not open the door. After about 50+ attempts, I got the door opened. I pulled the actuator and looked at it's functions with the cables. Everything looked good. The problem was with the arm that connected it to the door latch. The actuator would go up and down, but the way the arm was designed, it would just slide up and down on the arm without doing anything. I spend 50 cents and bought a machine screw, washers, and bolt and put it on the actuator arm to take up the slack. Worked like a charm (see attached pic).