Paulster's answer is correct.
BUT . . . I would suggest between steps C and D, that you take your foot off the throttle and coast down as long as you can (you are still going to need a long no-traffic highway ... please be safe).
This makes the exhaust go very lean, and tests the OSC or "Oxygen Storage Capacity" and the honeycomb matrix heat retention of the cat.
I know for a fact this can help on many cars, and I've even done it on Camrys. The technique is specifically to address the cat monitor.
Also, I'd add prior to step A, the car needs to be stone cold (overnight sitting). You can't have driven it a half hour ago. IAT Intake Air Temp and ECT Engine Coolant Temp sensors need to be very close when starting. This prerequisite, among others (e.g. gas tank level 25%-75% for Evap monitor) were decided a long time ago and are not usually OEM brand-specific. Also, check pending/active codes with key in run position, but do not start the vehicle. Clear the codes (if any) before you start the engine. Starting the engine may take you out of the temperature prerequisites, which means starting over.
Those prerequisites MUST be met for the specific monitor test to even run. It won't let you start with a hot engine (and hot cat).
You could try my trick a few times to see if it gets rid of your cat monitor. If not, Paulster's answer is the only path.
All the other steps are correct, but I'm suggesting this strategy to get the cat monitor to pass.
If your scan tool has a "monitor readiness" mode, it's fine to leave it plugged into the OBD II port while driving - it won't affect (or effect) any clearance of monitors.
It's not the amount you drive, it's the specific driving pattern that allows the test(s) to complete. Some cars are much trickier than others - when I worked at an independent across from a Subaru dealer, we inspected all their new cars just prior to delivery. It took 600 miles of driving a brand-new WRX STI in a very specific way to get the monitors to clear and issue a NY state emissions sticker. I was delighted to get paid for this "work", and I surprisingly didn't leave a scratch on the vehicle. Dealer and customer were not so thrilled, and they ended up discounting an additional $1000 to appease the situation.
You could also move to New York State, which allows 1996-2000 model-year vehicles to pass emissions with TWO monitors incomplete, and 2001-20?? vehicles to have ONE monitor incomplete. I think it's ALL complete now, but I don't know the cutoff year. That's a joke; it would be far cheaper to buy a new car . . .
Good luck!
On Edit:
Here's some additional information for a "generic" drive cycle. Paulster's answer is more specific, but this does have some general information that might help:
When a specific drive cycle is not known, or drive cycle information is not available from an owner's manual, the generic cycle described below may assist with resetting your vehicle's monitors. However, this generic cycle may not work for all vehicles.
IMPORTANT: If you choose to use the generic drive cycle below, you
must obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner. Also, be sure
the required preconditions are met prior to performing the drive
cycle.
The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature
below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within
11 degrees of each other). The ignition key must not be left on prior
to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may
not run.
As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and
one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost
turned on, if equipped. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and
accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a
steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to
20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual
transmissions). Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph. Hold at a
steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down)
to a stop without braking.
