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Initial problem: Steering wheel thump when turning.

So, I'm not a trained mechanic, but I've worked on my car a bit. The Hyundai Elantra has a small motor attached to the steering column that contains a small rubber coupler. This coupler can wear down and make the steering wheel thump when turning. It's a 2$ part and replacing this sucker was really easy, but ever since I replaced it, the EPS and Traction control lights have been on, and no longer has power steering.

I read online that sometimes a SAS (steering angle sensor) calibration is needed after the replacement. I also read that if you turn the wheel too far while the steering column is loose, it can cause issues.

I took the car to a mechanic that had the ability to calibrate the SAS. He did it five times. Each time this happens, the lights went off. The second he turned the wheel, the lights came back on and power steering was still disabled. It came back with three error codes.

c1260 - http://www.autohex.net/dtc-help/hyundai/82/2012/4768/C1260/

This one seems to state that if the angle on the wheel is off, it can cause the rest of the power steering system to shut down.

c2400 - http://www.autohex.net/dtc-help/hyundai/6/2012/5458/C2400/

EHPS system that controls the motor pump and steering force according to steering speed and SAS signal

c1604 - http://www.autohex.net/dtc-help/hyundai/30/2012/376/C1604/

This HECU seems to receive signals from the system and control the pressure supplied to the wheel cylinders

At this point, it makes me feel like I screwed up the wheel angle which shut down a chain of systems that control power steering. Since I paid this mechanic but we couldn't get things fixed, he told me that if I could figure out the issue and get it fixed, he would run the calibration for me again for free. I'm here trying to make sense of things. Any input on the possible problem I caused or how to fix it would be wonderful. Thanks!

*** For those wondering why I didn't take my car to the dealership for the recall, I did. They told me it was only available for cars under 100k miles, mine has 132k. I took it again after I did the replacement, hoping they would calibrate things, but they said that they would want to check the work and then do the calibration and would charge me over 400 bucks. I decided to find someone who would just calibrate the thing.

  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Apr 22 at 22:05
  • I would guess you did not note any alignment between the parts before you took it apart. So, take it to your mech so they take it apart and set it up from scratch correctly. – Solar Mike Apr 23 at 4:25

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